Jump to content

Lofty

Members
  • Posts

    103
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Lofty

  1. You could use non-adhesive sew-on Velcro and stitch it through the holes in the woodwork.
  2. My current single acting Wheatstone bass has a large number of holes with valves in the bellows. I call them gills. A previous one (by Lachenal) had a few holes with valves in the ends, I think in the action boards. It was a long time ago: I don’t think it had conventional reed pans which pulled out, as in smaller instruments. The Wheatstone with the gills is a vastly superior instrument to the Lachenal.
  3. Whereabouts do you live? I have a 69 button (plus air) ebony ended Aeola for sale. The right hand starts from the G below middle C. in my view, this is preferable as it provides a better usable range before getting into the squeaky high notes that don’t fit the McCann pattern. The left hand goes from a low F to the C above middle C. Steve
  4. ....this is why I choose to play bellows operated bagpipes??
  5. Bagpipe tunes are designed to work with drones. Steve
  6. That is a thing of astonishing beauty. Steve
  7. Rather than sticking Velcro to a concertina, what about using the sew-on type and stitching it through the fretwork? No risk of damage to the finish. Steve
  8. No, not angry. Just aiming for a balanced view??
  9. I contacted Colin a long time ago (20 years or so) about a replacement for a bass concertina reed which had broken. I had a replacement within a week. Not many people would be able to do that or provide that level of service. I won’t hear a word against him. Steve
  10. Any chance of any photos of your “special”, Jim? Steve
  11. My thought is “If you like that tune enough to want to play it, why are you in such a hurry to get to the end?” Steve
  12. Put a finger through the hole in the reed pan and pull firmly. It should come out but might be a tight fit. As already said, putting your finger through towards the smaller area of the reed pan might help. Before looking for complicated/difficult solutions, check that the reed frame hasn’t become loose in its slot. Just pushing it back into place might do the job. If the problem recurs with the same reed, a very thin paper shim (cigarette papers are good) at the wide end of the reed frame should help it to stay in place. Don’t shim the middle of the reed frame as this might bend it inwards, thus touching the reed. Steve
  13. Definitely try before you buy if you can, based on my experience. I have owned English system Edeophones and never really liked them. I wasn't happy with the tone, volume, responsiveness. I used them as “reserves”, but sold them eventually. Against my experience (and my advice above!) I bought a small (46 button) MacCann Edeophone without trying it. I think it’s a great instrument: fast, responsive, loud, great tone etc. It was meant as a smaller, lighter, alternative to my large (69 button) MacCann Aeola but I prefer playing it, despite its limited range. I wish I had a large Edeophone which was as good as the small one as well! Steve
  14. If you take your finger off the button momentarily when you change directions, you should avoid this problem. It will also make your playing a bit “crisper”. Steve
  15. I agree with what Geoff said earlier. If you can, try a Wheatstone Model 22 or 24. I find Aeolas to be quite “polite” tonally, on the whole. Model 22s or 24s can sound significantly more “pushy”. Steve
  16. Colin Dipper tuned my Wheatstone Model 24 in 1994. It has been played a lot since then and its tuning is still excellent. I recently looked at the set of a few reeds which needed a bit more pressure than others to start sounding and that is much better now. I think it’s probably not the reeds: more likely to be valves or reed shoes being a bit loose. Perhaps modern homes with low humidity are to blame. Others who have more experience of maintenance and tuning may have different opinions. Steve
  17. The ledger for this serial number is available online and you can see the relevant page at http://www.horniman.info/DKNSARC/SD01/PAGES/D1P0270L.HTM The ledger entry shows that it was made in 1912. Enjoy your concertina! Steve
  18. For a moment I thought you were going to say you would practise in the river..... Steve
  19. Thanks for that, Dowright. Steve
  20. I have a 46 button MacCann Edeophone, serial number 2097, which I thought dates from about 1910. The large Lachenal MacCann discussed in the Buy and Sell forum is claimed to date from 1891 and has the serial number 2093. As as there are no ledgers, 1891 seems over precise and I imagine that Lachenal produced more MacCanns than those dates and serial numbers suggest. Does anybody have any information which would clarify the date of mine, please? Steve
  21. Rod. When your quote refers to the size of the bellows, it means the cross sectional area, not the number of folds which the bellows has. This is a different issue from what McDouglas was asking about. Steve
  22. People tend to advise against using these boxes. If the concertina is kept in one, and the box is stood on its base, the valves hang down and will tend to form a permanent curl. It is better to store a concertina on its side for this reason. Of course, you could keep the box on its side. In addition, if the concertina fits too tightly inside the box, it can be hard to remove it. This can result in damage to the instrument. If you still really want one, Chris Algar from Barleycorn Concertinas often has them. I expect most other dealers and repairers will come across them quite often. Steve
  23. If it’s in such a bad state, you don’t have a lot to lose. Why not not buy the book I mentioned earlier and use your duet to learn about concertina repair, tuning and maintenance? These are skills which will be useful in the future as most instruments are likely to need a bit of tweaking now and then. Steve
×
×
  • Create New...