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Leaks and reed assembly gasket for a fixer upper
Chris Ghent replied to Buckram Bill's topic in Instrument Construction & Repair
No need to replace the gasket around the outside of the bellows if it is OK. Same for the gasket on top of the partitions but if it needs to be done, you would normally cut it from one piece of chamois but not all in one piece. Make a series of long strips around 3mm wide and apply them piece by piece. Chamois skins can have a lot of variation in thickness, try to make the strips as consistent in thickness as possible. -
Leaks and reed assembly gasket for a fixer upper
Buckram Bill replied to Buckram Bill's topic in Instrument Construction & Repair
Thank you I am glad I asked, that makes perfect sense Would it be best to replace the gasket around the inside of the bellows frame as well? For the gasket between the pan and the action box should this be cut from one piece of chamois? This one is badged Barnett samuel (and son) -
looking for Mícheál Ó Raghallaigh early cds
celticconcertina replied to paaudio's topic in Concertina Videos & Music
Try here http://copperplatemailorder.com/order.html Look for MORCD 001 Michael O'Reilly The Nervous Man £13.99 Copperplate are based in London. Little warning - their search engine isn't very good. -
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Leaks and reed assembly gasket for a fixer upper
Chris Ghent replied to Buckram Bill's topic in Instrument Construction & Repair
It would be best to use a leather rather than a modern material for the gaskets. Chamois was common. It is common for the pan blocks to be out of position and the best thing would be to remove them and put them back in the right place. A work flow which would work, barring the unforeseen or so far unmentioned, would be, remove the reedpan blocks, clean them up and also the place they will be reattached, fix the gasket if necessary, place the reed pan in the bellows and place the bellows face down on a flat surface, then from the other end of the bellows put your hand in and push the pan down against the flat surface and refit the pan blocks. This is a little more fiddley than I have made it sound but it is not rocket science. Use a reversible glue, ie. fish or hide, and mistakes become tedious rather than tragic. -
Don, thank you - I was a bit puzzled when I couldn't see anything in ES Explorer. I will look at it later... Thanks again. Roger.
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Leaks and reed assembly gasket for a fixer upper
wunks replied to Buckram Bill's topic in Instrument Construction & Repair
Is it badged Samuel Barnett or Barnett Samuel (and son) as is my Lachenal EC? Just curious. -
Leaks and reed assembly gasket for a fixer upper
Buckram Bill posted a topic in Instrument Construction & Repair
Firstly hello! I am completely new to the concertina, I am mainly a melodeon player but have recently bought an old 20 button anglo Nickolds 365 for my wife to play (badged Samuel Barnett and probably a lachenal from what i can glean from the internet) Apparently this little one hasn't worked properly since the 1970s. I am pretty adept at fixing up melodeons but have never delved into a concertina before. It had a couple of snapped reeds so i have made it some new ones from old accordion reeds and am fairly pleased with how they sound. What i am not sure about is how to stop some of the leaks. The bellows are really quite good but it is the seal between the reed pan and the action box I am not so sure about (please forgive me if i use the wrong terminology, this is all new to me) when the pan is pushed down against the little wooden stops in the bellows assembly the top of the reed chambers are not flush with the top of the bellows . there are a couple of millimeters difference between the two. Should i pack the underneath of the reed pan to level these up? What is the best material to form the gasket between the pan/bellows assembly and the action box? should i cut a complete gasket from a sheet material or use the type of strip bellows gasket i use on a melodeon (3mmx3mm neoprene strip) Sorry lots of questions! but it would be nice to get a tune out of this little box - Yesterday
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What our concertinas look like?
Don Taylor replied to new english's topic in General Concertina Discussion
If the red buttons indicate C notes then I think that the buttons on the LHS are in the wrong holes? Hopefully, this just involves button swaps. -
What our concertinas look like?
McDouglas replied to new english's topic in General Concertina Discussion
Thanks to Greg Jowaisas, I've just purchased my first vintage English concertina. Wheatstone 48 buttons, brass reeds, rivet action, a warm and intimate sound that's going to be great for playing at home. -
Not sure if it’s an actual inimitable or not, but yes it has brass reeds and a lovely sound. I forgot to ask Chris Algar about the history of this concertina.
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Yes that’s website that I looked but still couldn’t find any mention or pictures of a concertina.
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I had overlooked both the OP‘s stating of the Inimitable and the instrument having brass reeds. However, I stumbled over the rather flat keys myself - I would have expected an Inimitable to have „spherical“ buttons just like my Excelsior. Did you actually see the brass material?
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I too would like to have pictures and informational. Thank you for sharing your interest.
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Buckram Bill joined the community
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Or a No.6 ? if fitted with brass reeds, as stated ? Fully ornamented, but not tempered steel reeded ? for quieter playing but with the looks ? 6. Rosewood-NEWLY IMPROVED, ornamented throughout, silver-tip keys, fine and pure tone, rosewood box ... ... £7 0 0 7. Rosewood-Same finish as No. 4, with tempered steel reeds, rosewood box ... ... £8 0 0 8. THE PARAGON-Rosewood-Extra best finish, German silver keys, tempered steel reeds, which produce a rich, full, round, sonorous, and yet withal most mellow and flute like quality of tone, a combination never hitherto attained, rosewood box ... ... £10 0 0 9. THE INIMITABLE-Rosewood, same finish as No. 6, with tempered steel reeds, rosewood box
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an Inimitable - nice!
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I believe my Crabb Crane has nickel plated (brass?) ends and brass reed shoes...
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celticconcertina joined the community
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If you provide me with your e-mail address I can send you more pictures. I have to admit I am not an expert on Concertinas, all I know is that the instrument was appraised and I was told it was made in the 1850's. The instrument belonged to my father in law and it has been stored since his death in 1980. All I can tell you is that it plays well and that I have more pictures if you want them sent to you.
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Roger I mis-spoke. It is the X-plore file manager that includes a simple and fast pdf reader - X-plore PDF, not ES-File Explorer as I said in my first post. I prefer using ES-File Explorer to find files and it will fire up X-Plore PDF just fine - which, given the similarity of the two names - I just assumed was part of ES-File Explorer. Don.
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I think, that bearing a label which reads "Manufactured expressly FOR Joseph Higham, Manchester", there is no deceit, actual or implied by the vendor, back in the day. It is far more opaque than many Lachenals that bear labels implying that they belonged to a 'Maker' as opposed to simply a vendor/retailer. It seems to have been was a common practice with ( at least ) many stringed instruments too, but very much so with concertina's. A current Anglo case in point........https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-instruments/anglo-concertina-/1326888756 You have probably found this ref. to his Brass instrument factory and sales. http://manchesterhistory.net/manchester/gone/higham.html I wouldn't take it as read that he manufactured Harmoniums, despite the last reference.
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Gary, Please give us more of a chance to see what you are selling. Just seeing the bellows, along with the serial number and "40 bttons, steel reeds", does not tell me enough. Lachenal made Anglo concertinas [I presume yours is Anglo] with serial numbers in the serial number range below 5000--(1) very early Louis Lachenal Anglos in the lower part of the range and (2) Lachenal & Co New-Model Anglos in the 4000+ range near the very end period of Lachenal manufacture. For example, No. 4679 is also a 40-key Anglo, and is a New Model. And No. 4674 is a 30-key New Model. (Why, in the late 1920s, Lachenal & Co went back to this early-number sequence is another story for another day.) MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE.
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That’s the only bit of information that I found about him, I thought he was a maker or restorer. I’ve had a Lachenals in the past labelled Wheatstone and Crabb, who obviously were makers, so I thought Higham could have been a maker. I find it interesting that Lachenal concertinas had different labels; wouldn’t that be sort of “ilegal” nowadays?
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You have probably answered your own question/s ? Higham had a shop in Manchester, he sold Lachenal concertina's bearing his shops label, as it seems did just about every other 'Dealer/Shop' throughout the country at the time ? there may be nothing else to discern ?
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Hi all Does anyone know anything about Joseph Higham and his relation with concertinas? Not long ago I acquired this beautiful Lachenal English concertina from Barleycorn Concertinas. What draws my attention is the fact that it has a “Joseph Higham” label on. I’ve been trying find some information about Joseph Higham manufacturers and I can’t really find much that relates him with concertinas, other than he had a music shop/factory in Manchester? Is not uncommon to see Lachenal concertinas badged under a different name or manufacturer. Nevertheless this concertina plays beautifully and even looks like the inimitable, just with brass reeds. The serial number is 19082.
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Well, the Crabbs aren’t heavy, it’s just that this Wheatstone is super light by comparison. Might be because of the model or the year. But you’re right about aluminum. My Crabb is a 1908 and has, I think, brass shoes. The ends are not the duraluminium ones like my former 69, so am not sure. My big Crabb Maccann has those duralumimium ends and yes, is quite light for its size.
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That will be partly because the Wheatstone has aluminium reed frames. But I'm surprised about the Crabb. Both of the Crabbs I've owned had aluminium reed frames and aluminium ends, and so were really light for their size. What are the ends and reed frames on yours? LJ
