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Alex West

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Came late to the concertina having started with tuba. Now playing in regular Scottish and English dance music sessions. Occasionally still playing tuba with Flowers & Frolics.
    Also devoting a lot of time to restoring concertinas
  • Location
    North Ayrshire, Scotland

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  1. Yes Marien, I meant Titebond Original which is an aliphatic resin Alex West
  2. If I'm removing old chamois to replace with new, I always clean off any old glue so that I'm glueing directly to wood. In some cases, this has meant re-fixing the triangular reed-pan support blocks so that the height matches. I've never had a problem cleaning up either the PVA or Titebond (which sets brittle and can chip off easily) but I'll happily give fish glue a try. I like animal glues in general, but I'll give Gorilla glue a miss... Alex West
  3. I mostly play English/Scottish tunes with occasional forays into Swedish and Quebecois. I mostly play a G/D box, but yes, I use the thumb like a normal button as an addition to chords. I rarely (well, never) use it as a drone - though I can see if you're playing Irish style concertina you might find the D (or even a G?) useful Alex West
  4. I usually use either a woodworking PVA or Titebond. You don't need much and both work OK Alex West
  5. Paul Read. Nice bloke, on this forum and good for this job I'm not sure why you're in such a rush to make this change though. On a typical 38 key Jeffries, you have D in both directions, but the C/F thumb button gives you a C on the draw and an F on the push which you otherwise don't have at that pitch Alex West
  6. Musescore now comes bundled with Audacity as "MuseHub". https://musescore.org/en. Audacity does all the things that the OP does to change pitch, change tempo, edit and adjust audio files. MuseHub is free. Alex West
  7. Jacques I just re-sent it to the address you sent me in a PM Alex West
  8. Jason I don't know the specific button diameters of the Clover and the Morse, but I've measured button diameters between 4.1mm (metal) from a vintage Jeffries to 7.9mm (bone) for a vintage Lachenal. The 4.1mm buttons can feel needle-like and quite painful until you get used to them, but they do allow for very precise playing. The large buttons are easier to hit but can feel a little clumsy and difficult to move from one button to the next. I tend to prefer the smaller diameter buttons around 4.5mm - 5mm diameter with a small amount of rounding to the edges but others will, I'm sure, have different opinions. Once you compare one button with another, it's possible to get bothered by whether they're flat topped with very straight edges, have very rounded edges or in the extreme are very domed (like some of the "metal over a wooden core" button typical of a Wheatstone). It's possible to get used to any button in my experience. It also depends on how the instrument is set up and whether there's a long travel or whether they sit flush or proud of the fretboard when depressed. Alex West
  9. I have loads of pictures! If you want to let me know your email address, I can send you them either via Dropbox or similar. Alex West
  10. Thanks Stephen - I thought it was likely to be a late instrument; even your approximate estimate is a help Alex West
  11. Rod Are you still interested in a 20 key Jones? Alex West
  12. I recently acquired a fairly basic but well put together George Jones Anglo with serial number 28049. I've done a search of cnet but can't find any trace of Jones dates, nor of Wes Williams' history files. It has a mixture of steel and brass reeds - but some of the steel reeds look to be replacements. Interestingly, the case has the card of Arthur G Jones attached to the lid. Anyone have any idea of dates of manufacture of Jones anglos? Alex West
  13. The picture of the concertina in the first slide is actually a G Jones I think. Lachenals can sound as good (I haven't tested one against a Jones) but reed quality and response does vary Alex West
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