Alex West

No problem - what needs doing to it?

The 39 key metal buttoned Jeffries has been taken so no longer available. The bone buttoned instrument is a strong player and worth consideration if that's what you're after Alex West

Simon Indeed I do. Drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send some further information Alex West

Thanks to coronavirus, I’ve finished a number of projects which have been sitting on the bench for too long and they’re now looking for a new home. Over the next few months, I’m looking to sell these and would like to offer them here first with the usual donation to Paul for the website. All Anglos apart from one; all button counts include the air key, all in equal tempered A=440 pitch unless otherwise stated Here’s what’s coming up; let me know if there’s anything you’re interested in and I can tell you more, send you some pictures and we can talk about prices. · Lachenal 31 key C/G Brass reeds, simple fretwork · Lachenal 31 key C/G Steel reeds, fancy fretwork · Lachenal 33 key C/G Steel reeds, fancy fretwork · J Crabb 30 key Bb/F, very fancy wooden ends – very nice, old pitch Not restored yet so choice of level of restoration/tuning · G Jones 32 key Currently in B/F# but could easily go either to C/G or Bb/F in modern pitch – nice player · Koot Brits 41 key G/D · Lachenal New Model 62 key MacCann Duet · Shakespeare 39 key Bb/F · C Jeffries 27 key Ab/Eb, metal ends, metal buttons ¼ comma meantone · C Jeffries 30 key C/G, metal ends, bone buttons · Crabb 27 key C/G, wooden ends, bone buttons · C Jeffries 39 key C/G, bone buttons · C Jeffries 39 key C/G, metal buttons originally built & tuned for a semi-pro player by Colin Dipper. Already Taken Alex West

When I've had this issue, I use a black aniline leather dye to get the stain into the leather, then use a high wax, low sovent shoe polish to take away the slightly bronze effect https://www.hewitonline.com/Aniline_Leather_Dye_p/ms-070-000.htm Alex West

I'd been spending ages trying to track and fix leaks on this Jeffries. It's a great instrument, response was good and there was plenty of air for all uses but there were still sounds of air passing which was bugging me. I replaced the pads, strengthened the springs, checked the bellows 5 times, did a whole load of things before I noticed some tiny pin pricks to the underside of the action face which turned out to be hiding large holes where the wood was so thin that the button pegs were punching through. Here's my fix. I don't think it's particularly elegant, but it seems to be doing the job. Any thoughts as to how I might have done it better (without replacing the wood completely)? Alex West

PM sent Alex West

Marcus It sounds like a Hohner D40 Anglo - but to be honest, this is a relatively simple find on Google rather than something which needs the combined expertise of the concertina.net university. Have a look at what you can find on Google and if it's not clear from there ask again! Alex West

Brian In normal times, you'd be welcome to come and visit and try out an anglo (and I know a number of English players near here as well) but I fear that's not on at the moment. Send me a PM if you want to tell me exactly where you are and maybe I can give you some suggestions (I'm in N Ayrshire). I'm sure others will chip in with suggestions around your price range Alex West

Paul The 50 key Ab/Eb Praed St Jeffries you sold me weighs 4lbs with 7 fold bellows so heavier than this one, and my 46 key GD Jeffries is 3lb 8oz so comparable - and that's by no means slow. No reason why this instrument shouldn't be good for fast playing (although the lowest reeds might slow things down a bit) but maybe the reeds need voicing? As I've advised someone else recently, unless you're standing, most of the weight is carried on the thigh anyway. Agree with everything else you say Alex West

Neil If Mike's don't work out, I've an old empty right hand one. Don't know what happened to the left hand Alex West

I could be mean and say that accordions are out of tune by design so no-one notices when they're out. I speak from experience having played in many sessions in Aberdeen with 1 or 2 fiddlers and umpteen accordion players. See the thread on reed tuning to see Dave Elliot's thoughts on the perceptions of concertina in-tune-ness. Again from experience, concertinas can be way out and still playable in sessions. As an aside, I've a concertina here at the moment which is over 100 years old, hasn't been tuned since the day it was born, spent a long time in America and still plays acceptably in-tune (albeit in old pitch) Alex West

I called a couple of days ago and was told he's busy rewiring the workshop so couldn't get to the phone. I suspect that's all it is. Be patient Alex West

Alex You clearly know more about UV than I do! Looking back at the Internet source I used, it was only 24 hours and I used an "ordinary" 15W Energy Saving Black Light bulb. I figured that whilst UVC was "best" I could use an ordinary source and simply soak teh bellows for longer. I didn't get anywhere near the light when it was operational as it was shielded in the bellows Alex West

A friend of mine had a Wheatstone duet which she said was totally unplayable be]cause of the mould inside the bellows. She said she was prepared to have new bellows made if that would solve the problem but before she took that step, could I do something about it. She is very sensitive to dust and allergens so whilst I couldn't detect or smell anything, I gave it a go. I wiped the entire bellows internally with a bathroom mould & mildew cleaner - not wet, just a damp cloth to avoid (or minimnise) any softening of the bellows glue. I then exposed the inside of the bellows to a UV light for 48 hours (suspended a UV bulb inside the open bellows in the garage). Finally, I stuck a piece of ac tivaterd charcoal filter inside the bellows so that air would "wash" through it as she played. This all seemed to do the trick and my "customer" said she could now play it without discomfort. I'd be interested in more professional opinions but some of this may work for you? Alex West