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Rod Pearce

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About Rod Pearce

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    Male
  • Location
    Chester, UK

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  1. Gary Thanks for your suggestion. Unfortunately I don';t have the text to hand as it was ruined prior to renovation. I am going from memory and what I can see from pictures on the internet, If I can find one with enough numbers and definition I will try your suggestion. Regards Rod
  2. Thanks Mike. I can't find Lisong Pro either but....................... How about this one? Clarendon Light BT. Wikipedia says it was created in 1845, so would have been around when the instruments were being made. I prefer it to my previous choice 1234567890 Clarendon Light BT
  3. Don Thanks for your reply..I have looked at the Caslon typeface, and I don't think it is that as the numbers don't look rounded enough. I have tried some examples using MS Word and have come up with a few that seem to fit pretty well. My favourite is Sans Serif, so I think I will go with that. 196655 Times New Roman 196655 MS Sans Serif 196655 Franklin Gothic medium 196655 Century
  4. Does anyone know the typeface /' size used by Lachenal for their later instruments, specifically the instrument number label? IT looks a bit like Times New Roman, but the tails on the round numbers aren't rounded enough I need to recreate the label which in not salvageable. The instrument serial number is 199655. Thanks in anticipation Rod
  5. It has been a few months since I last posted progress on this renovation. The concertina is now back together as a working instrument. I have had to reglue all the frames and action / pad boxes which had all fallen apart due to damp. I have also made a new bellows as the old one was also ruined. OK, it isn't perfect as some of the sides don't quite line up but it all seems to work well enough. The pads, springs, lever arms and valves are all new. I have re-polished in blonde French polish to bring out the grain I still need to do a fine tune. I am quite pleased with ho
  6. See separate thread Wanted - some reed plates for an old German concertina.
  7. As I read the thread, it was started by Lesley H, so surely JoachimDelp is as entitled as anyone else to answer it. Or have I misunderstood?
  8. Barry Try ringing him. This is an extract from his Contact me page By telephone – from 10.00am – 6.00pm – 01650511888 (Sat and Sun I may be out – do leave a message)
  9. All back together and drying nicely. I have fitted the action boxes to check the screw alignment. Its not perfect but they do fit. Thanks to all for your help. Rod
  10. Frank Thanks for the advice. One of the frames was in pieces and I have begun its re-assembly ,I am finding the glue starts to go off too quickly to put all the pieces together in one go, I have assembled them as three sections using a template to get the correct angle, Then I will put the three pieces together to create the full frame, much as you advise using the reed pan and bands. I am measuring the distance between screw holes to try to match the action box screws. The other frame should be more straightforward as it is still intact.
  11. Thanks Milesy The only glue in evidence is hide glue, and that is what I am using. There are traces of this around the corner blocks. I have taken photos of everything and marked the frame sides so I know where everything goes.
  12. I am currently part way through renovating a 30 key Anglo that has suffered from prolonged storage in a damp place. Work on rebuilding the action boxes and fronts is nearing completion. My next job is to recover the bellows frames as the bellows needs replacing. Unfortunately, as with the rest of the woodwork, the damp has got in to the frame joints. The loints, reinforcing shims / biscuits? and blocks are all loose. There is no sign of glue in the joints themselves, only the blocks. There are traces of white mould in the joints. Can anyone advise if the joints would
  13. Jake Thank you for the tip. I have just taken delivery of 30 'new' brass levers courtesy of Steve, so I can replace all levers and know they are all of the best standard. Steve was able to supply them from unused Lachenal stock. Regards Rod
  14. Dave Thanks for your reply. I'm not sure what the difference is between staple and aperture. The pivot is like a solid piece of metal (brass?) with a slot cut through it - as in the eye of a needle. They all seem in good condition. The arms seem to move freely in all of them, so hopefully they do not need to be replaced. Frank Thanks for that. If all else fails I will look into your suggestions. I didn't think of using brass tubing! 😊 Jake Thanks for your suggestion. Didn't think of that either! 😊 Thank you all fo
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