Rod Pearce

Try Sandylaneman on Ebay

Have you tried contacting Mark at Concertina-Spares.com? The files are part of the thumbstrap set he sells and he owns the IPR.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loupe

Could that be a 6 instead of a 5? I have a Lachenal with number 196655 (I had assumed). The 6 and 5 are very similar similar. See attached

Open it up and take some pictures of the action board and reed pans on each end. This will give us a good idea of what state the instrument is in and where to focus your attention. To open each end remove the six brass screws and gently separate each end from the bellows. Keep a note of where the screws were removed from as it it advisable to put them back in the same place. Each end will separate into 3 layers as per the picture below

When I have bought valves for 20 and 30 key Anglos and 48 key English, they have been from the same source and the individual valves were effectively the same for all types. So the thickness doesn't seem to be model specific. That said, the thickness are different to those you are quoting. I have just measured a number of spare valves I have, with the following average results 15mm 0.3mm 19mm 0.4mm 23mm 0.6mm 25mm 0.6mm 29mm 0.8mm 35mm 1.0mm These leather discs are referred to as Sampers. Get yourself a 7mm punch as suggested by AndyNT, there are plenty on the internet.

Have a look at this thread. It contains several references to CA Cornish

I would go with the sizes shown in the Concertina Maintenance Manual. Sources in the UK include: Concertina-Spares.co.uk, but the proprieter Mark can be difficult to get hold of. The website can be accessed, but you can't order using it at present as it is 'closed' https://concertina-spares.com/product/valves/?v=3a52f3c22ed6 , you can order individual valves or kits. You can find details for getting hold of Mark on the contact page. If you send Mark an email he will respond but can take a few days. Alternatively you can get them from https://www.cacornish.co.uk, but I have not used them myself

Can I suggest you do a dry run of fitting the new gasket before glueing it in. If you then insert the pad board you can check that the new gasket is thick enought to make a good seal. Some chamois from car accessory shops are thinner than the original. If it is thicker than the original you may not require the 'packers'.

Sent you a PM

I have used this Piano Bushing cloth, which comes in several thicknesses. Dimensions of the cloth are 75 mm X 915 mm. https://www.pianoaccessoryshop.co.uk/product/bushing-cloth-strips-0-85mm-1-8mm-for-flange-keys/ I chose the 0.85mm thickness for the button bushes, but have not had a need for the frame end holes. Now priced at £15.95

Thank you, Theo Is the Starch paste / PVA mix by volume or weight? I've had a look at the Ratchford website and they sell the starch paste and PVA separately or as a mix, but the mix has only 3% PVA. I was also intrigued to see Reversible PVA! That's a new one on me. Rod

Alex I am trying this approach for making some pads, but I am finding that the leather doesn't glue well to the sized felt - it has a tendancy to peel away quite easily. The PVA I am using is a proprietary woodworking brand (Evo Stick) and is fairly thick in consistency. The leather is Veg tanned sheepskin, and has a shiny surface on the side to be glued. Does the leather require some distressing of the surface for the glue to work? Or perhaps the glue is too thick?

I agree Paul. I am currently working on a Lachenal, and took the opportunity to photograph the relative layers in the action and reed pan

I agree, chamois for the end frame gaskets. The chamois covers the end of the frames and continues down the inside of the frame to form a complete seal with the action box and reed pan - see picture attached from a Lachenal renovation.