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Rod Pearce

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Chatty concertinist

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  1. Paul I contacted Steve a while ago. He said he has no stock of brass for reed making. He did offer some advice of what spec of material to use, together with a possible source. I am reluctant to 'publish' Steve's his comments for general viewing without his permission as it was a one to one conversation. However, if you feel you would like to know his comments then PM me and I will OK it with Steve first. Rod
  2. If you have a fretsaw with a fine blade you may be able to cut a slot in the top of the broken bolt and turn it out with a small screwdriver.
  3. Hi Geoff Is the button bushed? If so has this worn allowing the button to move sideways? Similarly, the locating hole for the button, is this enlarged? Has the lever arm or pivot post become bent, pulling the pad over? Has the pad loosened over time, and need securing? Check the affect the spring is having as you press the button up and down. I have had the situation where the spring pulls to one side rather than staying put. A small tweak to one side has cured the problem, or a replacement spring. Have you tried operating the button with the end removed so you can see exactly what is going on? I'm sure there are other possibilities.
  4. Don, Dave Thanks for your replies. I will go with the source I have found and see how it goes Regards Rod
  5. I had raised this post as a continuation of an earlier thread entitled Making A Brass Reed For An Antique English Concertina , but it has become overshadowed. So I am raising it as a new thread in its own right in the hope of attracting further responses. I am interested in having a go at making some new brass reed tongues to replace several broken ones in a Lachenal 48 key English, but I don't know what specification of brass to use. There are a number of UK suppliers of brass sheet on the internet, e.g. https://www.metaloffcuts.co.uk/product/natural-brass-sheet/ but I would not know what proportions of copper / zinc would be suitable for concertina reed tongues. This website sells its sheets with the following specification , Grade CZ108 (Cross references UNS – C27200, ISO – CuZn37, EN – CW508L) also known as common brass and has a composition of 67% copper and 37% zinc ( I know the maths doesn't add up, but that is what it says). Would this be suitable? If you can offer any advice I would appreciate it. Thanks, Rod Chris, thank you for your earlier response . I will follow this up.
  6. I am interested in having a go at making some new brass reed tongues to replace several broken ones in a Lachenal 48 key English. This thread describes a process in some detail, but isn't specific about the specification of brass sheet needed There are a number of UK suppliers of brass sheet on the internet, e.g. https://www.metaloffcuts.co.uk/product/natural-brass-sheet/ but I would not know what proportions of copper / zinc would be suitable for concertina reed tongues. If you can offer any advice I would appreciate it. Thanks, Rod
  7. This is how I started to make my own springs - courtesy of Alex Holden https://www.holdenconcertinas.com/?p=831 All the steps and materials are listed here in great detail. It works very well for me, though my winder is not as elegant!
  8. Where are the reeds located - in the same area of the reed pan or spread about? If they are in the same area it may be that you are losing air in that location under the higher pressure caused by a warped pan or badly fitting gaskets?
  9. Chris Why not try calling / mailing Steve Dickinson at Wheatstone Concertinas. I'm pretty sure he has the stock left over from when Lachenal went out of business (contact details below). I'm not sure this would include replacement ends though, particularly if it is an early instrument. Alternatively you could have new ends made. There are a number of makers / repairers on the site. Telephone: +44 (0)1449 615523 Email: concertinas@wheatstone.co.uk 21 Bridge Street Stowmarket Suffolk IP14 1BP UK
  10. I have had the situation where the lever arm is being depressed by the underside of the end. probably caused by a slight warp in the wood or the pivot /arm being too high. This caused the pad to be slightly open when the end is closed. but appears OK when the end is removed. A tweak of the arm has cured the problem.
  11. Yes, Dave. The leather is wider than I suggested. My memory is fading! Regards Rod
  12. Genepinefield It may be that the problem is you are using synthetic leather. How stretchy is it? When I have fitted new top runs, I have used skived goatskin leather, and this can be easily shaped over the apex by puling it to stretch it slightly, and using the thumb and forefinger in a backwards and forwards motion over the curve until the creases disappear. I usually fit the top run all the way round first, then come back to each apex in turn and work it flat while the glue is still wet. Using a cloth damped in a little warm water helps with the flattening and cleaning off surplus glue. The leather is skived to 0.5 to 0.7 mm. Also 20mm width seems a bit big, From memory I would use about 12 mm wide
  13. There is a 1 year old Rochelle for sale on ebay. It is in the UK, but may be worth a look. Depends on your budget. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255039433543?hash=item3b6188eb47:g:afEAAOSwA0Bg1cvC
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