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Rod Pearce

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About Rod Pearce

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    Chester, UK

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  1. I assume you are referring to the leather in the bellows and around the end frames? The leather is generally purchased dyed.. When I made my bellows earlier in the year the valleys were from undyed sheepskin skiver (lack e goat skin leather in the rest of the bellows. You describe that you can see the wood coming through the bellows - this must be on the end frame and would imply through the leather is thinning. Perhaps you should consider reinforcing it be glueing on new end runs.
  2. Alex I've just seen this one. It has internal dimensions of 20cm x 20cm x 17cm. Not sure about the 17cm for your needs, though It might be worth a look Rod https://mcneelamusic.com/new-concertina-black-hard-case/
  3. Karl I am not familiar with the Blackthorn construction, but generally the leather would either be glued with hide glue or PVA. Given the minor extent of the leather coming away, I would suggest you put a small bead of white PVA glue into the gap and press it down to fix it. It should dry in an hour or so. Try not to get any surplus glue onto the outside of the leather, but if you do it can be removed immediately using a damp cloth or paper towel. Rod
  4. Jim You could try violin polish for the woodwork. I have used Super Nicko with good results, available from Beare and Sons. But there are others available on the internet. https://beareandson.co.uk/super-nicko-31-p.asp Regards Rod
  5. Michael I suggest you post this under the Concertina History threads Most people looking for dated put their enquiries there. The user who dates then is Dowright. See existing posts there Regards Rod
  6. Have a look at Alex Holden's website for inspiration https://www.holdenconcertinas.com/?p=831 I made this using Alex's jig as a model. It is cruder, but works very well. THe brass hexagon is an old 22mm stop end for copper pipe with the threads sawn off. Since the photos were taken I have added the guide to the right as per Alex's jig.
  7. Peter Have a look at this website. Section 8. There are a number of Australian makers and repairers listed http://www.concertina.info/
  8. Hi Seth I have finished the bellows, apart from new chamois for the ends. They have compressed down quite well but are tight - you have to use some effort to open / close them, and they don't open as far as they should. They certainly won't fall open at the moment. I don't know the reason, other than they may have been left to dry too long on the jig after the top run linen was glued on. I used hide glue for the linen, and it is possible I used too much or it was too thick? For all the leather work I switched to rabbit glue as this was being recommended by some expert makers. The previous period of compression I gave them just prior to fitting the leather did the trick in bringing the size down, and when I I put them back under compression they will be shut tight when I take them out. The attached picture shows them in their current 'relaxed' state I am exercising them daily and once the ends are fitted they will go back under compression. I am hopeful that with use the tightness / springiness will reduce. Regards Rod .
  9. Larry Can I refer you to your post from April 16, 2019 on this very topic? Rod
  10. Have you thought about the kit available from Mark LLoyd-Adey at Concertina spares?
  11. I've had the bellows in compression for about a week, on and off, and it seems to be doing the trick. They have reduced in length considerably to about 6 inches, with a little springiness left in them. Once I have fitted the top and end runs they will be going back under compression. Thanks for all the help. Rod
  12. Chris Thank you for this nugget! I had anticipated a couple of days, but this comes as a complete surprise. I don't remember reading anything about such a long period. Another example of how little I know. I can understand your 'in service' comment more easily they will be kept under compression.
  13. RAc Unfortunately I didn't take pictures between fitting the bindings and the gussets. However, I have taken on board your suggestion that the bindings may be contributing to the problem. So I have tried an approach to relax them a bit. I have moistened them all slightly with a damp sponge (they are not wet) to introduce a little moisture, and put the bellows back under compression After a couple of hours I removed them, and found that the amount of spring back has reduced significantly. I will re-compress and leave the whole assembly to dry fully, then see what I have. Fingers crossed. Regards Rod
  14. I am considering removing the end frames before compressing. Some of the joints have burst in the previous compressions, so repairs seem to be in order. I should be able to get better access to the troublesome parts with the frames out of the way. As for the gussets, they were skived down from 0.5mm to nothing at the edges, Perhaps I used too much , or too thick, hide glue. So much to learn!
  15. Alex You are right about the size of the angle between the cards.I have been following Bob Tedrow's method, which suggests an angle of 55 degrees for the sides, so assuming the angle of each corner is 60 degrees. I make it that the angle between adjacent cards is 10 degrees (2 x 5 degrees). Two other possible factors are - the lambskin hinge in the valleys fitted when the cards are still flat, skived to 0.5 mm, possible a little thick? - the card itself is rising-museum-board-4ply-16x20 @ 1.52mm, again possibly too thick. Bill I too have made some of those hexagonal blocks from a previous job, so I can try your suggestion. All the compression so far has been from outside the end frames Then continue to conclusion and see what I end up with. Thanks for your replies Rod
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