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Rod Pearce

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About Rod Pearce

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    Chatty concertinist

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    Chester, UK

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  1. Doodle I assume you need Anglo straps? If so, I have a couple of new sets installed on instruments that are currently sitting on a shelf. I won't be parting with them . They came from Mark a year or so back and have hardly been used, The straps are Design no 1 on Mark's website. I may also have a set of D rings, but I would need to check. I am willing to remove a set and lend it to you until yours come through, at which point you can return it. It may take a few days to organise, though If that's of interest send me a PM R
  2. Geoff, Stephen Thank you for your responses. I gather from what you say that although I should expect differences, what I am hearing from the 30-key is weaker than it should be. As all the new components are from the same source, I will continue down the path of trying to improve fit of the reed pans and gaskets to see if it will retain more air. I am also a little suspicious of some of the reeds, given the state the woodwork was in when I started. Perhaps I am expecting too much from what was effectively a wreck, and should be happy that it plays again. I
  3. I have both a 20 key anglo (Campbells of Glasgow) and 30 key anglo (late Lachenal), both of which I have restored to a playable standard in the last 12 months, i that order. I am noticing that the 30 key is appreciably quieter than the 20 key. Is this to be expected, or should I continue to work on the 30 key to increase its volume? Both have new pads and valves, but the 30 key needed new springs and lever arms and bellows due to damp and rust. I have also noticed that the 20 key is also much 'tighter', but I cannot locate any air loss in the 30 key. Perhaps it is the s
  4. Gary Thanks for your suggestion. Unfortunately I don';t have the text to hand as it was ruined prior to renovation. I am going from memory and what I can see from pictures on the internet, If I can find one with enough numbers and definition I will try your suggestion. Regards Rod
  5. Thanks Mike. I can't find Lisong Pro either but....................... How about this one? Clarendon Light BT. Wikipedia says it was created in 1845, so would have been around when the instruments were being made. I prefer it to my previous choice 1234567890 Clarendon Light BT
  6. Don Thanks for your reply..I have looked at the Caslon typeface, and I don't think it is that as the numbers don't look rounded enough. I have tried some examples using MS Word and have come up with a few that seem to fit pretty well. My favourite is Sans Serif, so I think I will go with that. 196655 Times New Roman 196655 MS Sans Serif 196655 Franklin Gothic medium 196655 Century
  7. Does anyone know the typeface /' size used by Lachenal for their later instruments, specifically the instrument number label? IT looks a bit like Times New Roman, but the tails on the round numbers aren't rounded enough I need to recreate the label which in not salvageable. The instrument serial number is 199655. Thanks in anticipation Rod
  8. It has been a few months since I last posted progress on this renovation. The concertina is now back together as a working instrument. I have had to reglue all the frames and action / pad boxes which had all fallen apart due to damp. I have also made a new bellows as the old one was also ruined. OK, it isn't perfect as some of the sides don't quite line up but it all seems to work well enough. The pads, springs, lever arms and valves are all new. I have re-polished in blonde French polish to bring out the grain I still need to do a fine tune. I am quite pleased with ho
  9. See separate thread Wanted - some reed plates for an old German concertina.
  10. As I read the thread, it was started by Lesley H, so surely JoachimDelp is as entitled as anyone else to answer it. Or have I misunderstood?
  11. Barry Try ringing him. This is an extract from his Contact me page By telephone – from 10.00am – 6.00pm – 01650511888 (Sat and Sun I may be out – do leave a message)
  12. All back together and drying nicely. I have fitted the action boxes to check the screw alignment. Its not perfect but they do fit. Thanks to all for your help. Rod
  13. Frank Thanks for the advice. One of the frames was in pieces and I have begun its re-assembly ,I am finding the glue starts to go off too quickly to put all the pieces together in one go, I have assembled them as three sections using a template to get the correct angle, Then I will put the three pieces together to create the full frame, much as you advise using the reed pan and bands. I am measuring the distance between screw holes to try to match the action box screws. The other frame should be more straightforward as it is still intact.
  14. Thanks Milesy The only glue in evidence is hide glue, and that is what I am using. There are traces of this around the corner blocks. I have taken photos of everything and marked the frame sides so I know where everything goes.
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