Don Taylor

I cannot find a way to view all recent activity (both read and unread) as a set of collapsed threads rather than a much larger set of individual posts. The unread activity is displayed as collapsed threads but as soon as a thread is read then it disappears from this list. The all activity is only displayed as an un-threaded list of items in date order which results in a messy long list where a popular items is repeated over many times, once for each response. I find that this this makes it difficult to scroll back through time looking for a once read item that I want to re-visit. The old version of the forum software used to default to the way that I am trying to describe. I have looked at the options for custom lists but that does not seem match what I want to do.

In that case I can treat them like concertina reeds and not use scratchers and lifters. I looked at many accordion sites and videos and nobody spelled out that you do not have to re-wax a reed between tests of individual reeds. Actually, most of them assumed that all of the reeds should be removed and the all of the wax before replacing and re-waxing the whole set - which struck me as insane! And the descriptions about scratching the back sides (pun intended) of reeds did not appeal to me!

Aha! A light bulb moment! Thanks Wolf, it had not occurred to me that I would not have to re-wax between tests. I don't mind doing the wax and re-wax but I just did not want to have to do it multiple times when I work on each reed. So to remove a single reed would I simply cut through the wax surrounding the reed? Don.

Geoff I will probably do so this time around as there are several reeds to take care of and because the BB will perform a minor upgrade for me at the same time*, but I like to do this kind of work for myself. Don * Mine is one of the first Beaumonts that the BB made and later models had some design changes. The BB will retrofit these changes to an older Beaumont.

I recently bought a used Morse Beaumont and need to set a few of the reeds because they are a bit slow to speak. Some may need a touch-up tune as well, but I have not got that far yet. The reeds in Morse concertinas (Button Box) are accordion reeds and they are held in with accordion wax. The Beaumont even has some of its reeds set into a small reed-block just like an accordion. How do you set and tune these reeds? Melting and replacing the wax every time a reed is taken out and replaced seems a lot of work. When I read about how this is done in accordions it seems that they set reeds and tune reeds in place in the accordion rather than use a tuning table as is used for concertina reeds. I can see how to set and tune an 'outside' reed, but how do you get at an 'inside' reed without de-waxing and re-waxing? Don. One thing that I did think of trying was to tune/set the outside reed of a reed pair then remove the pair and flip it over so that the inside reed becomes the outside reed, wax it back in place and then tune/set the new outside reed. But I suspect this flipping may affect the the tuning of the new inside reed because of its new sonic environment. Thoughts/experience? This trick would not work for Morse Anglos.

As Daniel says, the Elise should be fine but you would have to be more careful with a Beaumont because it has waxed in reeds. An ambient temperature in the 90s would be OK, just don't leave it inside on the parcel shelf of a closed car. Not fatal, but it might be a heck of a mess to clean up and a lot of work to put all of the reeds back into place. I would take the Elise camping and leave the Beaumont at home.

Wolf: What do you mean by "the six parallel chords"? Don.

You can buy 10mm acetal (Delrin) round bar in small quantities off eBay. Edit:. Better ignore this, as many folks have pointed out that you cannot glue Delrin.

That question is quite a bit beyond my pay grade! Issues of psycho-acoustics and the way that musical scales vary with time and different cultures are really interesting especially as there is a nice mathematical underpinning to all of this stuff. Ph. D. dissertation at least, I think.

More detail from Wikipedia: Highland bagpipe music is written in the key of D major, where the C and F are sharp (despite the key-signature usually being omitted from scores). Due to the lack of chromatic notes, to change key is also to change modes; tunes are in A Mixolydian, D major, B Aeolian, or occasionally E Dorian. In concert pitch (notes on the piano) it will be B♭ Mixolydian, E♭major, C Aeolian, or occasionally F Dorian. Traditionally, certain notes were sometimes tuned slightly off from just intonation. For example, on some old chanters the D and high G would be somewhat sharp. According to Forsyth (1935),[9] the C and F holes were traditionally bored exactly midway between those for B and D and those for E and G, respectively, resulting in approximately a quarter-tonedifference from just intonation, somewhat like a "blue" note in jazz.[10] Today, however, the notes of the chanter are usually tuned in just intonation to the Mixolydian scale. Which explains why GHBP music sounds so alien to folks whose ear is not adapted to it.

Rob Harbron plays with the middle of the bellows of his concertina across his knee. I read that he does this so that when he keeps time with his foot it causes a little pulse through the bellows. Most (all?) tutors say not to do this as it causes wear on the bellows, but it works for him.

Have you seen this: https://thesession.org/members/7960 Scroll well down and he (Al Brown) addresses chord structures/progressions for different modes.

I bought some phosphor bronze wire from the Instrument Workshop in Oregon, their .020in premium coil works well for me. http://www.fortepiano.com/index.php/products-menu-item/wire-menu-item/copper-alloy-menu-item/phosphor-bronze-menu-item Edit: I am sorry but I made a mistake in my original post. I am using their .020 premium coil (16301-20) not the 0.025 as I originally said. I have both sizes but find that the .025 fractures very readily when bent at right angles. You can feel it give a little crack and see the fracture in the bend.

Not at all, it is the pairing that is the issue.

You are the ghost of Ewan Macoll and I claim my 5 pounds! Don. (Actually, I do agree with Owd Nick).