Mike Pierceall Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 A slideshow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrP Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Nice explanation, wordless yet illustrative. I learned a bit about those essential circles of leather & card. Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Harrison Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Hi Michael............how thick (in mm ?) do your pads come out at. Thanks Robin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Pierceall Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hi Michael............how thick (in mm ?) do your pads come out at. Thanks Robin Hi, Robin. The pads are 4mm in thickness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Selby Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 In the old Lachenals, the pads are fixed to the arms by what looks like a drop of sealing wax. What was actually used? Â Where did you get your wide bore punch? Â Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Pierceall Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 In the old Lachenals, the pads are fixed to the arms by what looks like a drop of sealing wax. What was actually used? Â Where did you get your wide bore punch? Â Thanks! Hi, Stephen. I bought the punches from KC Tool. They are reasonably priced. I used Weldbond Universal Glue for attaching the pads. It seems to have a built-in stress factor. In other words, it remains flexible after it dries. I don't know what was used originally but it appears to be hot hide glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Selby Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Thanks! Â If they were using just glue, and you are getting good results from the Weldbond, would that suggest that we could dispense with sampers and just use a good glob of glue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Pierceall Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Thanks! Â If they were using just glue, and you are getting good results from the Weldbond, would that suggest that we could dispense with sampers and just use a good glob of glue? I use the Weldbond rather sparingly. I can't say for certain, but the samper may offer some sound insulating quality to the pad landing on the valve board. The bead that is threaded on to the end of the lever may need something soft to interface with. I have seen pads without sampers and levers without beads, but I bow to tradition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Selby Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Thanks for your advice. I have sourced punches here: Â http://www.ebay.com/itm/141857410997?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=440986049665&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Â I'm going to try putting on pads without sampers, using the drop of hide glue, and see how it goes. I'll do some with hide glue and some with something like Weldbond. I have some low-end old Lachenals I can experiment with. Whatever I do, it would be reversible. Â Whoever came up with the word 'samper' anyway? It's not in the dictionary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimLucas Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Whoever came up with the word 'samper' anyway? It's not in the dictionary. Simpering Sampers, Batman! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Selby Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Jim Lucas. Seems the answer is 'nobody knows'. Â Everybody: has anyone got a source of leather punches for making valves in different sizes? I managed to get some nice thin leather scrap. It's black; but I see that Wheatstone was using black leather for valves in the 1950s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Harrison Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Stephen............the trouble I had with the type punches you sourced on eBay is the quality. I found they dulled fairly quickly and left a tear-out of leather.......so you buy another inexpensive set which in turn dulls. And eventually you have a draw full of sharp, new but unwanted other sizes. If you could locate the type Michael uses, eventually you'd be ahead. They appear better quality. BTW.........do you need any odd sizes of punchs ? I got lots ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglogeezertoo Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Le Prevo, Newcastle upon Tyne, UK have these at £39 a set   http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/wad-punch-metric.html  This, of course, will give you a number of punches you may never use!!  However any supplier of workshop tools should be able to supply what are generally called WAD PUNCHES.  Used for punching holes in gaskets etc. Just remember to punch through onto a wooden backing to preserve the sharpness of the tool.  Just stick it into google and see what you get.  In the UK a single 12mm punch retails for about £6  Jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Selby Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks for the info. on wad punches. What I'm actually interested in is punches that would allow me to make valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimLucas Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 What I'm actually interested in is punches that would allow me to make valves. Â I'm no expert on such things, but I would think the slightly tapered shape of valves for vintage concertinas is not a standard item, and would have to be custom made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Stephen............the trouble I had with the type punches you sourced on eBay is the quality. I found they dulled fairly quickly and left a tear-out of leather.......so you buy another inexpensive set which in turn dulls. Punches can dull quickly dependig on how they are used. Use a block of wood as a base on which to punch. Punch on the end grain, not against the grain - that way the punch will follow the wood fibres not work against them. It is this working against the wood fibres that can dull a punch early. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 A plastic chopping board as sold for kitchen use also makes a good base for punching onto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLDNICKILBY Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 U H M W P E That's Ultra High Molecular Weight Poly Ethylene is the best material for chopping boards, but failing that good old Co-Polymer Poly Prop is almost as good. A pad of an old magazine is also pretty effective and FREE. Wad Punches are very easy to re-sharpen and if you de-burr the inside they work much better as the pads will eject Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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