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Everything posted by Theo

  1. Lots of leather sellers on ebay. Problem is you don't know exactly what leather you want until you have tried a few and learned some of the arcane terminology used in the leather trade. You might be lucky and get the right stuff first time, but it could be that you have to tray a few different leathers before you find something suitable. In the long run that could easily cost more than buying pads ready made. On the plus side you will have learned something useful. The choice of felt and card is also important, and you will need to make or buy punches in 2 or 3 sizes. I can tell you from experience that the sort of cheap punches you can buy on ebay make a poor job of cutting concertina pads. They are not sharp enough, the surface finish inside the punch can be rough, and the metal is quite soft.
  2. Lachenal 46 key Maccann Duet for restoration. It has its original steel reeds still in old high pitch, with one brass replacement. The ends are rosewood with a full set of bone buttons. There is a full set of end bolts and both strap screws are present. It comes in a contemporary hexagonal case. The reeds are largely free of rust but will need tuning. The whole concertina needs a thorough cleaning, new pads, new valves, new bellows, and there is some damage and previous repairs to the end frets which will need to be stabilised. Price £225
  3. The reeds I've seen in Wheatstone Mayfair instruments look more like Italian than German in origin. No makers mark that I've seen so it's hard to be sure. They also have every indication of being hand made type reeds, rather than cheap mass produced ones. Modern hybrid makes use a wide range of reed qualities.
  4. Exactly the sort of unfortunate situation I was alluding to above, though it is more common to find a Jeffries where just some of the reeds are not original.
  5. Assuming the instrument has been fully overhauled with new pads, valves, etc etc you will learn more by playing than by looking inside, unless you know what to look for. The biggest risk with buying a Jeffries is that the reeds may have been badly treated and that may not be immediately obvious to the eye. It will be obvious when playing if the tone and volume is not consistently good across all buttons, if pitch drops excessively when playing loudly, or if buttons don't all move easily and with a smooth feel and even spring pressure.
  6. An online search for Wheatstone 27793 throws up links to two ebay auctions one on ebay.com, one on ebay.ca and a physical auction house in Canada from February this year. The links are all dead now but it does give some clues
  7. If you want a decent quality concertina in a short timescale, then you will need to look secondhand. Making a new concertina involves a lot of time for the maker. So any maker with a good quality product will have a long wait time. Anyone turning out concertinas quickly in large numbers will not give you the quality you need.
  8. Marcus concertinas are good reliable well made instruments, as are those from A C Norman. AJP concertinas are also good reliable instruments. Anthony James who makes them used to work for A C Norman. All these are modern accordion reeded instruments. There are also American made concertinas with accordion reeds of which Morse, Tedrow, Edgley are the ones you are most likely to find in the Uk secondhand market. Any of these makes would be a good buy secondhand. You could do worse than contacting the bigger retailers and asking them to let you know when a they have a good midrange anglo available. Vintage instruments have different qualities of sound and playability, and it's a matter of personal preference which you prefer. If you buy a vintage instrument it's essential that you try before you buy, or have a guaranteed right to return for a refund. Any decent retailer will offer this. You are right to avoid Ebay, Gumtree, etc.
  9. If you don't already know the playing of Cohen Braithewaite-Kilcoyne then here is an example He plays a Jeffries CG with I think 44 keys. There is also a video of his Degree recital at Leeds university in about 2017 which I can't locate at the moment.
  10. It is a Wheatstone Model 21. Not Wheatstones top model but will still a very good player when restored.
  11. No! A=452 is roughly a quarter tone sharp. So for example C would sound midway between C and C#. Anyone who didn't object to a 440 and a 452 instrument playing together is probably profoundly deaf!
  12. Yes there are many youtube videos about accordion tuning. Unfortunately many of them are quite misleading and describe poor practice. I look forward to any more information that you can provide, especially on how to do the filing and test the tuning in place. Do you have to reassemble the concertina frequently? I suspect that all of us who own a Morse concertina will find this information useful one day. The video above ( which from renowned Norwegian accordion builder Olaf Bergflodt, and narrated by his daughter) shows all you need to know about the main types of tools and how to use them. Personally I favour the Italian hook, though I use the German style tool as well. The video only makes passing reference to files so I'll add my thoughts on that. I've used a number of different makes and types of file, but now I do most tuning with one of four files: 1 a small diamond warding file 600 grit. Like this unfortunately this one is now out of stock and I'm looking for a substitute. I'm currently using this one from Ezlap, but the quality is poor. The diamond coating is inconsistent and the edges of the file are lumpy. Good diamond files have a very predictable cutting rate so are particularly useful when you get within 2 or 3 cents of the target pitch. They also avoid the disaster that can follow if the teeth of a traditional file catch the corner of a very thin reed. 2 Swiss Vallorbe needle file 3 square cut 2. A variety of these files are are shown here, don't be tempted to try the cheaper Cousins own brand, they wear out fast on spring steel reeds. This cuts faster than the diamond file so I use it where the pitch has to be changed a lot, roughly more than 15 or 20 cents. 3 a high quality 6" engineers file fine cut which I use for the largest reeds. 4 an old medium cut file which I use exclusively for filing solder on tip loaded reeds.
  13. I tune diatonic accordions and concertinas for a living, have done for nearly 20 years. I now tune all accordion type reeds on the reed blocks with the blocks fitted in the instrument, either in accordions or concertinas. Concertinas with upstanding reed blocks are usually easier than accordions because there is almost always more space around the reeds. I'll try and take some photos to illustrate the process.
  14. Waxed in reeds can be tuned in situ with a few very simple tools. Accordion tuners do this all the time.
  15. Tuning at 452 has one very big advantage. It means that the reeds have not been messed with. Before you tackle tuning yourself it would be a good idea to develop your skills on some less precious instruments first.
  16. Alex makes a very good point. And looking at it from a different angle if you don’t pay yourself for you time can you afford to give up a few weeks of your usual income to devote yourself to making reeds? And don’t forget the time it will take you to learn how to do it. Another approach that would be more likely to give you success in a much shorter period of time would be to use reeds salvaged from old accordions. Mayne these are also expensive in Argentina, but in Europe nobody wants to play 120 bass accordions from the 1930s and you can often buy them for a very small amount of money. You will have to work on the reeds to get different notes on push and pull, but that is possible with a very small amount of work compared with making reed tongues from sheet steel.
  17. Eddy Jay in England is making 3D printed concertinas, his website may help you. He uses accordion reeds, initially salvaged from scrap accordions, but now bought from Italian reed makers. If you want traditional long plate bandoneon reeds you can have these made to your specification by the Czech reed maker harmonicas.cz
  18. You also have two very small screws missing from the left side finger rest.
  19. Avoid eBay! Any vintage concertina there for under £200 will need work to make it playable. I’ve just had an eBay “beginner” concertina brought to me for assessment. It cost £400 and would have cost more than that to put it right. The buyer is sending it back for a refund.
  20. Yes Stephen, Erinoid buttons.
  21. SOLD Lachenal 20 key anglo parts serial number 200257 matching numbers.for spares our rebuilding. The laminated rosewood frets are in nice condition, and there is a full set of buttons and left and right action, reed pans and bellows. The main missing parts are the reeds and endbolts. Price £40 including UK delivery. UK delivery only please.
  22. Lachenal 20 key anglo parts serial number 138458, consisting of two action boxes attached to bellows frames. The mahogany frets could be used with some minor repairs, and there is a full set of buttons and left and right action. The end bolts are mostly rusted in place, broken or missing. Price £20 including UK postage. UK delivery only please.
  23. I have a small quantity of parts to clear out for a nominal price. There are three items. All for UK delivery only. German concertina bellows and one end. Price £6 including UK delivery
  24. Well it's not an Aeola, they are 8-sided. But it is Whetatstones next best model after the Aeola. Value depends on. condition and you say it needs work, I can also what appears to a the result of a blow that has pushed in the the metalwork slightly towards the top of the picture. It's is one of Wheatstones best so it's a valuable concertina.
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