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About Theo

  • Rank
    Heavyweight Boxer
  • Birthday 01/29/1950

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  • Interests
    I tune/repair/restore and buy and sell concertinas and melodeons.
  • Location
    Gateshead, England. Land of the Angel of the North!

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  1. If you are making new bellows and new end frames you should be able to salvage the brass plates from the old bellows, and re-use them.
  2. Neil Wayne is the collector who found those ledgers and placed them in the Horniman Museum
  3. You seem to have a Lachenal concertina but you have looked up the serial number in the Wheatstone ledgers. These were two quite separate manufacturers, competitors in fact, so the information from the ledgers is not relevant to your concertina. Unfortunately there are no surviving Lachenal production records. As an Edeophone it would have been made no earlier than 1889 when the Edeophone design was registered see http://www.concertina.com/pricelists/lachenal/ and no later than mid 1930s when Lachenal went out of business.
  4. B&Q sell nice chamois wash cloths which I’ve used successfully. Look through the skins on display and select one with the most even thickness right to the edges.
  5. If I was faced with this I think I would avoid using water or solvents and just slice through the chamois with a sharp scalpel. The chamois will have to be replaced anyway because it is covered with glue.
  6. Did the seller really look at the item for sale? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=174151667399
  7. Theo


    Oops! Sorry about that. You are right Stephen, I was thinking of the later 5 digit numbers.
  8. Theo


    Regarding Crabb concertina numbered 1887, this was almost certainly not made circa 1870. Geoff Crabb who worked in the family business will be able to provide a date, but I suspect it’s from the mid 20th century with that number. The Crabb family made many superb concertinas, but later they, like Wheatstone were forced to build down to a price when concertinas became unpopular in the mid 20th century. Concertinas are very individual instruments and you can’t apply general statements to a particular make. The only way you can be sure you have the right instrument is to actually play it. If you are unable to travel then any decent retailer will have a process for letting you have an instrument on approval.
  9. Before going to the trouble of replacing all the pads, you can make yourself a very simple device to test the pads in situ. A tube with one end wide enough to fit over the hole in the pad board. Place over the hole, place the other end in the mouth and blow. You will hear air escaping through leaking pads.
  10. Shouldn’t that be dural with a single ‘l’ if we are talking about the aluminium alloy?
  11. Yes, happy to help. Contact me by pm here or email Theo.gibb@gmail.com
  12. It’s sounds very much like a case of internal air leaks, probably because the reed pan supports are failing or are set too low. It’s very very unlikely that a problem with the reeds themselves could affect all the reeds on one side.
  13. Clean the excess polish off the cartouches while the shellac is still soft with a cotton bud dipped in alcohol.
  14. If its new from the maker it would be polite to contact Suttner fits to ask for advice, or if it's from a shop contact the seller.
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