Theo

I tune reeds in the reed pan placed on top of my tuning bellows, which is mainly designed for tuning accordion reed blocks. So the reeds are "at home". I still need to do offset tuning too, so I think it's unavoidable.

Thanks for the mention Rudeboy. I also have a 26 key Lachenal nearing completion.

Usually brass in my experience in English made concertinas. Soldering iron is a good method, but as Chris says it needs to be long enough for the heat to travel the full length of the screw. After heating a few sharp taps on the screw head, use a drift rather than striking directly with a hammer. Try to turn the screw back and forth several times before attempting to unscrew. No guarantees!

Sadly the hamfisted who break brass screws and chew up slots will always find a way. Socket headed screws are so secure, and ss bolts so tough that they may just overtighten till the wood gives way under the pressure. I'm not saying that your changes are not improvements Dana, just that it's not possible to combat ignorance with stronger tools!

Don't play in the rain. If you must play in the rain then get a whistle, harmonica, trumpet or any other waterproof instrument.

I believe it is Richard Burgess

Corrected

I knew that the Dippers sometimes used valve helper springs on larger reeds, and I've sometimes done the same myself. The concertina I'm posting about has them on every valve right up to the highest pitches, even the top few that probably don't need any valves. A quick experiment shows that if I lift a valve while the reed is sounding there is an obvious increase in volume.

I can understand sometimes the very low pitch reeds need special valve treatment, but this poor anglo has extra stiff valves even on the very highest reeds that would normally be better off without any valves at all. I think Nick is correct though I would describe it as a botched job. Budging is or was an honourable trade of making simple furniture from green wood.

That’s what is happening with this concertina, the valves are so stiff that they hardly lift at all. The result is a muted sound.

Its similar to an accordion valve, but home made. Accordion valves are rectangular, not tapered, and the helper springs are almost always steel, not plastic. These have a very "home made" look.

This Shakespeare anglo is in my workshop at the moment and I got quite a surprise when my initial inspection found this unconventional style of valves. Has anyone seen these before? There is no repairers signature inside. The helper springs fitted to the valves are made of a clear plastic film and the resulting valve assembly is far to stiff for all but the lowest reeds so the reeds are muffled and unable to speak freely. I'm planning to replace all with conventional valves, and that will entail a retune too. I think that this is the work of an inexperienced repairer without access to the right materials, but I'm interested to hear if there is a reason for this kind of valve.

Several top anglos for sale on The Box Place - full details including photos by following this link Crabb 31 key CG, Wheatstone Linota 32 key CG Carroll 30 key CG Lachenal 32 key CG Jeffries 26 key GD metal ends small format - a little gem. and in preparation I have a Shakespeare Bb/F There is also a Crabb English and a couple of duets.

I have a 27 key Jeffries GD that is close to the size you are looking for 5 7/16” across the flats. Mire details here https://theboxplace.co.uk/product/jeffries-26-gd/

Post it notes make good shim material. Use the gummed edge and the shim will stay in place, but is still easy to remove.