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Emergency Repairs


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I thought I would start this to promote you to write in your TEMPORARY emergency repair that have got you out of trouble .

The ones I have either done or seen done are as follows.

 

Pad dropped off - cut a strip off a band aid and stick it back on .

Spring broken - Use a small safety pin. Cut off the head and bend it into position.It may be a bit stronger than the original spring but it works.

Bellows have developed a hole.- I have seen a huge gaping hole rectified whilst he was playing with a bit of masking tape.

I have also seen air holes repaired by use of evostick allowed to dry overnight to form a rubber like hole restorer.

No screwdriver use a knife the sort you eat with. (only to get you out of trouble)

 

If I think of any more I will post them up.

I will be interested in your problem solvers.

 

Al

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In the early days, ( late 70s, early 80s ), I replaced three or four springs by adapting brass-coloured safety-pins of appropriate gauge. They proved to be permanent rather than temporary repairs. Have had no further need to replace any springs, over a period of thirty years or more. I have always applied a very occasional, very light trace of oil to the entire surface of all the springs. I guess that metal to metal friction plays a part in spring failure.

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Sometimes temporary becomes permanent! In the concertina I inherited from my Grandfather (who inherited it from his Grandfather, but never played it himself) I found one of the springs had been replaced by what looked like a strip of goose quill bent into a "U" shape. That repair was probably done around 1905, but was still pretty springy! Also, many of the valves were replaced with what look like pieces of old leather gloves.

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Pad dropped off - cut a strip off a band aid and stick it back on .

Pad dropped off, which was originally attached with hide glue: A bit of spit on the glue where the parts meet, then press them together. Held beyond the end of the concert. I've done this more than once -- on different pads -- over the years.

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I've replaced leaking pads by putting a dab of fish glue in the center of the old pad through the port and then inserting a new leather facing through the port, pressing it through until it unfolds on top of the old facing. Putting a dot in the center of the new facing with a felt pen gives me a visual guide to help me position it correctly.

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A hole in your bellows can be repaired by getting a piece of leather and cutting it into shape by using a cut throat razor or a snap off bladed knife.

Put the leather, to be cut ,rough side up and cut it to size by using the blade at an angle (always cut away from you) the finished leather should finish up feathered .The shiny side cut to nothing tapered to the rough side. If then stuck to the bellows (I use Evostick ) The feathering should enable the new leather to blend in with the old without any edges to catch on your clothing.

 

Al

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I was told by a Cuckoo clock repairer ( I kid you not ) that he always used some egg white to mend small holes in bellows. I have not tried it but it might be better than ruddy evostick

I have a Cuckoo clock that needs repairing....... can you recommend anyone .... anyone ?

Edited by Geoff Wooff
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I was told by a Cuckoo clock repairer ( I kid you not ) that he always used some egg white to mend small holes in bellows. I have not tried it but it might be better than ruddy evostick

 

Of course the white would have to be from a cuckoo's egg for that application.

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My first concertina didn't like changes in temperature/humidity. Even a crowded pub would be enough to upset it. Now it is full of little strips of newspaper, which stop the reeds becoming loose in the reed pan slots.

I was chez Dipper yesterday, with a Crane whose reeds have been going flat. First thing Colin did was pretty much what you describe, though he favours bits cut from Post-it notes. The effect was remarkable: notes that had been very flat suddenly sounded broadly in tune. He explained that the cutters used at the time of manufacture tended to enlarge the end of the slot. He stressed the paper should be sited just around the tip of the reed block, not along its sides. I'm glad to say he has kept the instrument for a more thorough fine-tune.

 

(I recall the egg in the radiator trick - organic Radweld - but never tried it!)

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