Frank Edgley

A Scholer was my first concertina. This was before the internet and it seemed impossible to get a concertina. (mid 1970s). I played it for a month or so when one of the reeds broke, No one could fix it, as all the reeds were attached to a reedbank. Even the accordion shop in Windsor could not replace the reed, so it was a couple of years before I found a Bastari. The Scholer was in no key known to Man, anyway. Don't spend a lot of time or effort. Scholers were made in East Germany.

I have had made up brass thumbscrews for my concertinas. I have extra sets available for anyone who needs them for repairs etc. These will come with stainless threaded inserts so repairers don't have to worry if they will fit older antique instruments they are restoring. Solid Brass, modeled after traditional thumbscrews. They can be in the mail in a day or two after contacting me. Email me at frankedgley@gmail.com .

Nickel silver is a blend of copper and nickel Most concertinas with metal ends are nickel silver. There is no silver in nickel silver.

Does anyone know if Paul Reid is still repairing concertinas.? If so, How do I contact him?

I have recently received one of my 30 button Heritage concertinas for sale... #413. These are the instruments with concertina reeds and Wheatstone-style reedpans. It is in great shape, looks and plays very well. Ebony There is a picture of the instrument on my blog edgleyconcertinas.blogspot.com Please contact me by phone 519-991-3100 for details. It can be shipped anywhere in the USA with no problem.

A well-made concertina should not need to be opened very frequently. I have one of my Bb/F concertinas which has only been opened once or twice for a touch up tuning.. It is well over ten years old. Unless dust gets into a reed and stops it from sounding there should be little reason to open it.

I think a few things might fall after so many years. Including people!

The wood used for the reedpan definitely affects the sound.

A lot comes down to what I call (rightly or wrongly) voicing. When an instrument is finished, it should be played for a few days. These imperfections will become evident, and that's the time to correct them, before they are sent out. Often it is about the set of the reed... too high or too low. Mass produced instruments don't take the time to do this.

A simple fix may work. Sometimes the felt around the button hole needs compressing. Remove the metal end. Using a pencil with a slightly larger diameter than the hole, push the pencil into the hole with a twisting motion, remove and it should be better. If necessary, use a little graphite from the pencil lead on the inside of the felt. That should be the easiest fix.

Possible reasons for the guide pin on the button not being in the guide hole1) The pad has compressed over the year so the button goes higher causing the button to pop out of the hole; 2) the hole itself has worn away causing a hole that is too large to hole the button upright; # the mechanism arm has been bent due to a fall etc; The solutions would be to rectify the cause(s) as described i.e. new pad; fill the hole with epoxy and re-drill; straighten the arm.

The concertina I have for sale is a 21 button (plus air button) instrument...wooden ends...bone buttons...5 fold bellows..wooden grills .It is in good condition. Call me at 519-991-3100 or email me at frankedgley@gmail.com for details.

I have one of my Heritage concertinas for sale. It has polished stainless grills, ebony with bloodwood trim body, and is a great player, for a reasonable price. Check out the photo and details on my blog edgleyconcertinas.blogspot.com . While you're at it, please read to letter from Esther, a customer who ordered Edgley #4 twenty-two years ago. She continues to play it 22 years later, but has recently purchased another new Edgley for her family member.

It is possible to make one using a brass safety pin (of similar diameter) and needle nose pliers.