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Frank Edgley

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About Frank Edgley

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    Heavyweight Boxer
  • Birthday 01/11/1946

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    Windsor, Ontario, Canada

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  1. The problem I found with the vast majority of Lachenal reed pans is that almost were warped. This resulted in weak tone, and double notes.
  2. My first concertina was a Scholer. I played around with it for a month or two. Then one of the reed tongues broke. No one, not even the accordion dealer, here, in the city could repair it. It was a few years until I found a Bastari. The Scholer was a very poor instrument, but I guess if you lived in communist east Germany you played with whatever you could get. I now use it as the bellows on my tuning table.
  3. If not the ceiling fan, then I suspect those two notes are a bit loose and vibrating at their seat. If it occurs only when expanding the bellows it suggests that the negative air pressure which occurs when expanding the bellows would tend to pull the reed(s) away from their seat on the reedpan, and cause a very slight vibration. I am not familiar with the Weltmeister, but I suspect there reeds are waxed in. Examine the wax around those two reed plates. There may be a very fine spacing or crack around the reedplate, which may or may not be visible. If that is the case, it should not be difficult to put it right.
  4. Baltic birch aircraft grade plywood would work for your Lachenal. It won't warp or split...ever.
  5. This technique will flatten the reed in question. Put a razor blade under the tongue. attach a heat sink to the reed by clipping it just behind the area you will apply the sloder. The reed sink is made of aluminium and is a clip device which looks like a tiny pair of scissors. Apply a VERY small amount of flux to the tip with a toothpick. Then apply the solder. Make sure you don't get flux on the edges of the tongue or the solder will get on the edge and prevent the reed from sounding. If that happens, it's not the end of the world, but you will have to carefully file it off. You will probably have made the reed too flat. That's when you start to remove the solder carefully with a small narrow bladed file. Keep checking the pitch. It's easy to go too far. Then you will have to add solder and start again. Personally, I'm not in favour of removing the D# by flattening it. There are many beautiful melodies that need the D# as an accidental.....some O'Carolan tunes, Airs and Northumbrian tunes to start with.
  6. Tooling leather is used. It is a tough cow hide. It will need to be dyed and a finish applied. Thicker leather certainly last longer, but is stiff and not comfortable. Thinner leather is much more comfortable, and lasts long enough. I have been playing my Heritage concertina for 5 or 6 years and have years to go before they are worn out, and they are very comfortable, allowing for easy movement of the hands. If you want to get a bit fancier, there are tools you can get from Tandy leather which will allow you to customise your leather. Just dampen the leather before tooling and let dry before dying and finishing. Another thing..... you must determine the grain of the leather. One direction stretches more than the other. If you cut the leather going the wrong direction your straps will stretch.
  7. What other instruments? It wouldn't work well if playing with equal tempered instruments. Good with fiddle.
  8. I would follow Dave's advice. Did you confirm the note was flat eith a tuner? It could well be the fiddler.
  9. Things to find out..... (1) how badly are the reedpans warped? ...(2) Are the action boards warped as well or do the have cracks in them? ...(3) In what shape are the bellows gaskets. If the reedpans fit into the bellows frames, they will certainly nned shimming, but if the tops of the gaskets are worn out, allowing leaks between the body and bellows they should also be replaced. At least, thewooden grills are intact.
  10. You definitely need a new bellows. No amount of fixing can repair that one.
  11. Replace the valve. Likely it has taken on a curve and is not sitting flat, requiring more pressure to pull it down to the surface of the reed pan. You probably should replace them all.
  12. See if you can get "SYAKU" tuning program online. No, twanging would not be accurate.
  13. Lachenals are notorious for their noisy mechanisms. It could be one of several reasons. It could be that if the bushing is missing from the hole in the button, it may cause a click. If the mechanism is raising too high it may be that the mechanism id hitting the inside of the wooden grill. If the bushings under the button is missing, it would cause a click. If there is insufficient strength from the spring, it may cause the lever itself to cause a click with the fulcrum, as the lever would lose contact with the fulcrum momentarily and when the arm reingages with the fulcrum there will be a click.
  14. I have acquired for sale a handsome C/G Wheatstone concertina, made by Frank Edgley Concertinas Ltd. The body of this instrument is Southern Australian Eucalyptus Burl, with rosewood trim. This is a beautiful wood, similar to and related to amboyna. You can check it out on my blog http://edgleyconcertinas.blogspot.com. It is in very good condition and is an excellent player. It has very fast and quiet action and has a beautiful tone. Please contact me by text at 519-991-3100 or fedgley@cogeco.ca . This instrument has been well cared for. The owner has developed physical problems which make playing impossible. Otherwise it would not be for sale.
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