RogerT

On the subject of Anglos: the Marcus is actually a nice instrument (with accordion reeds). I was very impressed when I played one. I've seriously considered ditching my 32key Lachenal for one. Also the mid to upper range McNeela ones are pretty good, with a fast action, aimed at the ITM market, where a fast responsive instrument is important. This goes against the grain a bit..given I repair these things for a living, but I'd get a new modern one any day over a vintage one. Old instruments are all very well, but can be a pain in the rear. And not only that, you sometimes have to listen v hard to tell the difference between trad reeds and accordion reeds (on the top end hybrid models). I'm going to get shouted down for saying this, I'm sure. My advice is not to get too hung up on an old vintage instrument, at least to start. A $1500 new instrument is good enough for most people. Check out the young Irish Anglo players on YT. They sound pretty good and many are playing modern hybrids. A vintage $$$ instrument doesn’t make you a better player.

Dave Elliot's thumbstrap design is a good place to start, though I think the template in the book isn't long enough and I lengthened it. I also made a couple of slatted wooden forms to squish the leather/fabric sandwich while it is gluing.,,and this ensures it is parallel and straight and of an exact and consistent width. Having said all that, making thumbstraps is a bit of a pain if you only do it occasionally, and expect to make a couple before you get it right. An alternative is to make thumbstraps from a single piece of thick (but soft) leather, thus avoiding the 'watch strap' design (folded, glued leather encasing bits of felt and cloth). You still need to glue them to the metal brackets (use hide glue), but it's a lot quicker and easier. I've done this a couple of times (at customer's request, not because I'm lazy) and quite like the result.

To answer your original question, it'd be better to get a 30 key CG, the reason being that tutorial books and YT instructional videos are all for that instrument. Though you won't get an old (say) Lachenal for your budget, unless it is a wreck and you'll have to restore it. And..you really do need the extra row of accidentals. There are some very useful reversals on there. Avoid the Stag concertinas (even the more expensive one). They are pretty awful to play. The Rochelle is very playable in comparison and a good choice. The other place to look is at the entry level 30 key Anglos sold in Ireland (e,g, by McNeela). Because it's such a popular instrument there they all tend to be very playable. Or the Marcus (made in Wales), which is excellent for an accordion reeded 'tina. I've tried all these instruments by the way (and repaired them). As a supplemental answer, if you have a 20key Lachenal or Jones, which has the removeable reeds, the simplest and most effective 'mod' is to get hold of a matching C# reed and substitute the pull A in the middle of the LH G row. It works surprisingly well and it's how I've got my Jones. So I can knock out tunes in D. The point here is that the G/A button on the G row is repeated on the top button of the LH D row, and (if you learn the Irish style …see the Bramich book) you use that key anyway and not the G row G/A button. Extra observation…you don't play up and down the rows on an Anglo, …you play across the rows. Some people do play up and down so this mod won't work if that's how you intend to play. Up and down players need a box in GD.

I follow this engaging chap on YouTube. Some of his vids have a great instructional element, like this one, with comments on ornamentation. It assumes you know your way around a CG Anglo and is not for beginners. But I really like his laid back and unshowy style..

Firstly, thanks Alex Holden for that brilliant little summation on temperament, and also Don's post, with the 1848 ad, which implies that Alex may be onto something.

Yes, this has been my approach. It's also possible to get m2.5 bolt/wood inserts.

Ah right, I've seen this on Anglos but not on any English 'tinas, and I see a lot of those…many more than Anglos.

“Only if it's tuned Equal Temperament, which early ECs probably weren't when they left the factory.” I am curious about this. Given an English concertina is supposed to be fully chromatic surely it would be tuned to equal temperament as there is no scope for anything else?

I think you can buy genuine Hohner reed plates (and other parts) from their 'C Shop'. See here…they appear to have an outlet for the US and Canada. https://www.hohnershop.com

That's very cool. I'm not a midi fan, but that is very good. Congrats!!

That is impressive.

It might be worth getting the action on your Lachenal checked…and also work out what is not right about it (while you go a looking for that ideal 'tina…my advice…try first, so attend events where you can do this). My Lachenal 32 was truly awful…had terrible action …but I have made it pretty fast and playable with a *lot* of work…like bushing, adjusting spring tension, lowering buttons, fix spongy feel by sorting any tiny air leaks, checking valve behaviour, checking and fixing reed response…that sort of thing. It can make a lot of difference to its playability.

Assuming it's a standard CG 'tina… 1) get the standard layout for a CG anglo tina (somewhere on here or search Google. 2) work out where those reed blocks go 3) map buttons to the holes and therefore the block/reed chamber position 4) result should be what you are looking for. 5) if you have the reeds, ping them to work out the push/pull pitches 6) this should then enable you to match the reeds to the blocks.

I am curious to see how you made the reed pans, so if it's not too much bother please post pictures.

Post a picture of the action when you take the end off. Some (cheaper) instruments use bits of plastic pipe in the mech and this can cause issues like this. It's easily fixed if yours happens to be like this.