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Chris Ghent

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About Chris Ghent

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    Heavyweight Boxer

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    http://www.concertina.com.au
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    Blue Mountains NSW

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  1. Yes, one of the RHS d#s in the Jeffries layout. My point about the drone was not that it could be converted to extra reversals but that the space it occupies on the reedpan (which I don’t really have a grip on as I have had little to do with hybrids) could be used instead to supply one more of the usual accidental row buttons.
  2. I put an E in the same place on my own concertina a few years back but never did convert to using it. You couldn’t pull from D to E because it was the same finger but apart from that worked OK. I have found putting non-reversed notes (typically E/F and A#/G#) from the left onto extra buttons on the RHS works well. Typically when your left hand is busy your right is not. And there is more real estate available on the right. Every instrument I have made has had the low F# reversed on the second button RHS accidental row instead of one of the d#s, a Dipper mod. Speaking of real es
  3. I suspect the transition from an incomplete (sorry, sounds pejorative, don’t mean to be, supportive of this project) learner instrument to a standard instrument would be easier if all of the buttons on the learner instrument had the same pitch values and positions as the equivalents on the more complete instrument. Is G minor a typical key for an entry level player? I found in my own playing using both A and G on that button made a huge difference to phrasing in my playing (including using the G in G minor) and I find encouraging students to use that G/A button early on is better than co
  4. Some cheap bellows are made with folded card rather than hinged card. They may break in eventually.
  5. Totally personal but I’d hate not to have the A/G reversal on the left end accidental row. A lot depends on the canon you are making the instrument for. A learner Irish player would be better off for future playing with the A/G than the Bflat/Aflat.
  6. I think you have misread Dana, Tom. You are in agreement. Tom, your man with the bandoneon; my guess is he doesn’t know much about his instrument but knows he can get what he wants out of it, so he imagines it must be right.
  7. Richard, don’t know if he is still in business, he is getting on, but try Peter Saville from JamesDeanDesign@bigpond.com.au, 0414 992 000. He is on the Princes Highway in Tempe, Sydney. He made a couple of knives for me a couple of years ago, well made. He has been in the shoe manufacturing business all his life. I think the principal at Lucris might have retired, his daughter is running it now. Both use a form of strip steel which they have on rolls. It has one sharpened edge (single sided) and they bend it to fit. It must be possible to buy it but whether it would be at a
  8. Alex, sorry,somehow didn’t notice you had given all of the same info...
  9. If you can find a company that makes clicker knife dies they will make them for you and it probably won’t be very expensive. They typically work for leather industries like the shoe industry. Here’s the outfit that made mine https://lucris.com.au Clicker knife making is a dying industry but there will still be makers in your country. I wouldn’t be surprised if there were makers in or near Street in Somerset, former home of Clark Shoes. Cornish’s, who supply bellows leather parts are there and they would know of a clicker die maker.
  10. Putting the (sharp) wadding punch in the quill of a drill press will give you straight sides to your pads. And no, don't turn it on while pressing the pads, just bear down on it.
  11. You can run something hard along the middle of them bearing down into the vent and they will appear to behave as normal but I doubt that will last long. In Ireland where there were few repairers until recently and no manufacturers I have heard people take the reed off, roll it up shiny side out and then put it back on again. They say this lasts a while. The best (only) solution is another valve, which needs to be fitted to work similarly to the other valves on the instrument; that is, with similar “give”, in order to preserve consistent starting pressure and affect on tuning and the tone of t
  12. I have a Tile on my keys; this allows me to find my keys by looking on the phone and find my phone by ringing it from the keys. It has saved me a lot of time many times over. How well it works if the keys are out of bluetooth range from my phone I don’t know but I would not expect many other people to have the app running where I live so I’m not depending on it. If you can find a place to put it on the reedpan where it does not foul a reed, valve or the bellows I doubt whether you will change the sound. I wouldn’t worry about damaging an older instrument, they are well made and if y
  13. @Clive Thorne The frames in a Lachenal are good, and the steel may be. The usual issue is the clearance between the frame and tongue is excessive. I have heard of people cutting the tip off and pushing the reed further into the window; this reduces the side clearance because the reed is tapered. The reed would then need tuning. @Alex West Alex, you might be right about there being some good Lachenal reeds but I haven’t seen any great ones. This may be because my focus is on Irish music and Lachenal anglos were not their best instruments; they lack the speed and power
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