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About wes

  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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    currently eugene, oregon. usa

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  1. Huh. Obviously I posted the next day that it wasnt me playing on each clip, so why the picking about? "But but you didn't do it like we wanted". Doubt if I'll ever post anything here again.
  2. I first heard this tune played by Mary Macnamara on YouTube as she sat by the piano in her music studio. She didnt give a name for it. Richard does a beautiful job of it.
  3. This video clip and the prior one on this miniature lachenal are played by a member of this forum, and done very well imo. I didnt ask him for permission to post them, but they are so well played that I couldnt resist.
  4. Ken, I just see 2 different posting now. I think I did double post one of them. Thanks.
  5. So if one has a high end modern instrument with the 'harsh timbre' due most likely to laminated sound and action boards that Paul referred to in the previous post, is there any way to improve the sound? If one has played it for 12 years with only minor improvement in sound should a person just sell at a loss or keep hoping someday it will get better? It also wouldnt feel good to sell online to another player and have them experience the same lack of inspiration.
  6. Wondering if it is truly in that key. On my program, its 36 or cents above A440 and so I tend to say it's in an old tuning (and very good) and may very well be a C/G instrument. Hopefully some input from the seller on this.
  7. Whosoever dare touch these reeds with a file shall be committing a mortal sin. Wonderful playing, btw.
  8. The ends may be German silver, but what I've seen is they are sheet metal, tin? The outer surface has a nickel coating. If this is the case, if a jeweler heats the cracks enough to melt the new silver solder properly, it could discolor the nickel coating around the repair. This could explain the low temp lead solder repair. You could do as suggested and carefully work the outer solder down flush providing there is a good amount under the crack, but this will make the repaired area weaker.
  9. I think Frank got part of the problem with the folds being too shallow. I measured 1/8th less depth than older bellows on 3 other instruments. The material used for the valley hinges or gluing that hinge cloth without the individual cards being completely flat or just gluing them too tight. I know because I've done the same on my first sets. Ah well, I'll struggle on, thank you all. Sliante!
  10. Being a bit lazy by nature, I purchased a bellows for a quite nice 20b lach fine fretwork from an Ebay seller by way of co Kerry instead of spending the time to make them myself. They looked well made, robust as I have on a Crabb angle, not the more delicate looking bellows that a good lach usually has. I do think that the robust bellows is more suited to brash Anglo dance style. Anyway, I've been fighting these bellows ever since install without progress. The other eve I played for about 15 minutes under my favorite bridge and my hands and forearms were in pain. I've put them in a compression device for weeks, treated them brutally as an excersise spring between the knees with air button full on and nothing helps. What kind of glue was used here?? Regrets for sure, but am hoping someone has an idea to bring this stubborn bellows into compliance as it affects the instrument response greatly.
  11. Bidding ended at only 300$. Guess I should figure out/ask about the shipping process. Years ago on ebay I got the same model for around 1100$ and considered that the going price.
  12. It should be required viewing for anyone with even the slightest interest in the instrument. Although the humor attempt is lost on me.
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