Peter Smith

I would add my praise to Gary Coover's books. I found the "Anglo Concertina in the Harmonic Style" a revelation. I always tought it should be possible to play some good harmonies and this book showed me how. Hope you have a great time with it. Peter

It just happens that I own a 42 button Jones 'Perfect concertina' restored by Andrew Norman last year (& am thinking of selling it!). The concertina on Ebay measure 205mm across the face (flat to flat) according to the seller, whereas my Jones 42 button measures only 6.75 inches or 172mm across the flats. The fretwork is also quite different - see below. If the Ebay anglo is that large across the face, could it be a baritone or bass? Peter

It does look a bit like a Jones but somewhat different. I had a look in the concertina museum collection but couldn't find anything matching the concertina on Ebay. Looking at the fretwork pattern, it appears that a few buttons have been added to both ends, as you say. Looks like a 30 button Anglo with additions! From what I can see in the fretwork pictures, the levers in the main section of the ends are riveted action. That would suggest a better quality anglo but dreadfully abused! An interesting project for whoever wins it.

I would suggest contacting Chris Agar. He would give you the price you paid for the 48 button Crane towards a new intrument. You would probably get more for your existing Crane than selling it privately. I have a 48 button Wheastone Crane and it is really good. In my view, the extra few buttons on a 55 do not contribute a lot, though I am sure others will disagree and it depends on the type of music you are playing. If you found a 60+ button Crane, then you would get the benefit of some bass notes more than an octave below middle C. Peter

I have used one of the thin blades from a feeler gauge to push the glue into narrow gaps - a bit Heath Robinson but its worked for me. Peter

Glad it was of some help. Just a thought. I would suggest not separating the laminate totally as it could be difficult to get it back into the exact position again - especially when clamping it. The glue can cause the parts to slide. I used PVA, as its strong and gives a solid repair. For the valves & pads, I prefer to use hide glue, so its a bit more authentic. Peter

I had the same problem with a 20 button Lachenal rosewood ended concertina. The rosewood had delaminated in part on both ends & I successfully used Evostik wood adhesive to re-glue the laminate. I used some shaped & thick mdf (covered in cling film) & three G clamps to push the parts together. Without the G-clamps, you get a layer of glue & it was obvious the laminate had split. See pictures below. Hope this helps. Peter

Does your concertina have baffles? Sometimes they can resonate at certain frequencies causing a buzz. Peter

Could you add a picture of the whole of the side with 21 buttons and a picture of the open bellows? Many thanks Peter

I owned one for a few years until recently. I found the 18 button English easy and fun to play by ear. It was easier for me than a 48 button English concertina. My main concertinas are anglo and crane. I sold it as rarely play it. I would recommend the 18 button stagi though it is limited in its range.

Now sold. Peter

Still for sale. Also on Ebay (UK). Peter

I have Flutina with sticking keys - which I assume means they are rusted to the axle bar. Some keys move freely but others, when pressed, move two or three other keys. Any suggestions for solutions to this problem? If the axle bar needs removing, how is that best achieved? Thanks Peter

Could you post some pictures of your flutina? I have restored one Flutina & am preparing to restore another. I did not have to replace the bellows. Replacement valves - I would use accordion / melodeon valves. Replacement mother of pearl buttons - don't know - apart from parts from another flutina. If you send me your e-mail address, I can send you some pictures of what I did. Peter

Done