Jump to content

Peter Smith

Members
  • Content Count

    91
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Peter Smith

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Collecting and playing Anglo and duet concertinas. Learning to repair and refurbish of concertinas & concertina cases
  • Location
    North Wales, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

847 profile views
  1. In the past, I have used Calibri (light) 196655 - but that also does not look quite right! I would be interested to know what others suggest. Peter
  2. I was not criticising your suggestion but urging caution. Milton is good stuff and it might work well e.g. in a diluted form. (Its certainly good for sore throats as my mother taught me 60 years ago!) Peter
  3. I would be a bit wary of using Milton, as its diluted bleach (speaking as a chemist)! I would guess denture tablets should be OK, though I have not tried them. Peter
  4. Some similar 'home-made' concertinas were sold by the same auction house last year. If I remember rightly, they were made by someone local and all seemed to be individually designed with bellows similar to those shown. This may be one of those up for auction again. Peter
  5. Thanks. I hope it has come to a good home! I value these old concertinas. Like you I play anglo and also duet (mostly Crane). I have restored a number of anglos and was looking for a more challenging restoration. I would like to experiment a bit with this MacCann by moving the reeds around a bit to give a Chidley layout (if that is fairly straightforward). Peter
  6. Yes, I bought this through Ebay in January this year. The existing bushing is quite stiff but I would think its not original. Maybe some glue was used in with felt to strengthen where the felt meets the metal. Thanks to everyone for your thoughts and advice. Peter
  7. Thanks for pointing that out, Gary. I had not thought about the internal space available. Peter
  8. Thanks for your comments. Yes, there are no holes for screws to hold a bushing board. The current bushes use felt round the inside of the hole then the inside end cut & glued to the end plate (see pictures below).Looks like a tedious job but maybe that’s what is needed. I cannot see any sign of a board having been glued to the metal end. Thanks. Peter
  9. I recently acquired a metal-ended Lachenal MacCann concertina (number 816) for refurbishment. When I opened it, I was surprised there were no bushing boards (assuming that is the correct term) where the button go through the metal ends. The ends had been bushed by cutting felt and glueing it to the metal ends (see pictures). I would be grateful for some advice. Would I be best making some bushing boards? If so, what type of wood should I use and how thick should it be? My other option is to copy what’s there but I don’t think that is the best answer. Thanks, Peter
  10. It's great to see the crane concertina site up & running again. Many thanks for your efforts. Peter
  11. I would add my praise to Gary Coover's books. I found the "Anglo Concertina in the Harmonic Style" a revelation. I always tought it should be possible to play some good harmonies and this book showed me how. Hope you have a great time with it. Peter
  12. It just happens that I own a 42 button Jones 'Perfect concertina' restored by Andrew Norman last year (& am thinking of selling it!). The concertina on Ebay measure 205mm across the face (flat to flat) according to the seller, whereas my Jones 42 button measures only 6.75 inches or 172mm across the flats. The fretwork is also quite different - see below. If the Ebay anglo is that large across the face, could it be a baritone or bass? Peter
  13. It does look a bit like a Jones but somewhat different. I had a look in the concertina museum collection but couldn't find anything matching the concertina on Ebay. Looking at the fretwork pattern, it appears that a few buttons have been added to both ends, as you say. Looks like a 30 button Anglo with additions! From what I can see in the fretwork pictures, the levers in the main section of the ends are riveted action. That would suggest a better quality anglo but dreadfully abused! An interesting project for whoever wins it.
  14. I would suggest contacting Chris Agar. He would give you the price you paid for the 48 button Crane towards a new intrument. You would probably get more for your existing Crane than selling it privately. I have a 48 button Wheastone Crane and it is really good. In my view, the extra few buttons on a 55 do not contribute a lot, though I am sure others will disagree and it depends on the type of music you are playing. If you found a 60+ button Crane, then you would get the benefit of some bass notes more than an octave below middle C. Peter
×
×
  • Create New...