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d.elliott

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About d.elliott

  • Birthday 08/08/1950

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  • Website URL
    http://www.concertina-repair.org.uk
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    ENGLISH System: including: Bass; Baritone; Treble; Miniature

    All forms of Concertina playing, but also Repair and Restoration. like to provide help & assistance as needed.

    I give talks and run workshops on repair and resoration

    Male Voice Choir Singing, West Gallery Singing & Shape Note Singing

    Traditional Music, Concertinal Band Playing
  • Location
    Sheffield, South Yorkshire, England

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  1. this type of test is not much good as a bellows test, as it tests all the pads and end gaskets as well. However your test does show a problem with the instrument. I agree with Geoff, talk to the manufacturer. One would have hoped that the concertina had been checked over before they sold it to you. If not it says a lot about the manufacturer's customer care attitude.
  2. This can be either a valve which is stiff and holding off from the reed vent. Air flow closes the valve, then it springs open again, or the reed plate is loose. Either way I don't like working on waxed reeds. I have learned that re-using existing wax is not a good idea, I get pre-mixed wax which is beeswax and rosin, I proprietary blend
  3. I had dealings with Mark only a week ago. I tend to phone him more often than not. Dave
  4. I always thought that an expressive Anglo rendition was a bit of an oxymoron, you have proved me so very wrong. Sensitive playing with a harmonisation that accentuates rather than dominates, well done indeed.
  5. I call you Stephen, with a 72K English bass, the action is Chidley, with the split reversed hook pivot post and a wire cross pin acting as trunnions on the 'fish bellied' arm. the serial is 4976 the thumbs straps and the finger slides were over 3 inches wide. I ended up doing a full restoration back in 2014. However the actual manufacturer??
  6. I bought a miniscule weight of the wire, or so I thought, and ended up with enough to circumnavigate the globe! I shall be leaving some to my daughters in my will. What they will do with it, I just don't know. I little does go a long way
  7. I am surprised that p-bronze should break as Don suggests, perhaps his stock was in a fully hardened state, I don't think I have ever had one break. I don't think that p-bronze gives too much resistance by making a too stronger spring, I am using 0.63mm (0.025") dia wire at half hard starting condition.
  8. Theo, if the reed tongues only have the coppery hue, then it is probably the reed tongue alloy, if the reed frames are also a bit pink then it is mist likely a chemical cleaning process.
  9. try using wood not epoxy. It is far more recoverable in the future.
  10. often originally a green paper that has been washed with leather dye. The dye does not take over the gold pattern, hence you have the vegetable bit and the gold lozenges and dots showing through and where the gold is worn the dye has speckled the pattern.
  11. Of course the Baritone English goes down to the G below your C. The Bass English goes down an octave lower still. Rumour has it that when the concertina band at the fishing town of Whitby play those low Gs then they open the swing bridge over the river. Just commenting ....
  12. not all accordion reeds have the plastic or wire helpers, although I did assume you were talking a traditionally built instrument. If anyone is reading this who is unsure or knows that they have a traditionally built concertina, then please store it or keep it axis horizontal.
  13. Simon, does your rather fine looking box hold the concertina with it's axis horizontal or is the instrument sat on it's end? I refer you to David Barnett's statements about valves. The old hexagonal boxes had one major flaw, and a more minor flaw. The major flaw ( happens to all instruments in the box style) was that they sat the instrument on it's end, axis vertical this seriously damages, even destroys valve operation, it can reduce the life of a set of valves by several years. The minor flaw ( happens to some) was that in some instances the instrument is not so easy to get in and out of the box resulting in bellows damage and occasional thumbs strap anchorage damage on English system instruments.
  14. You can get special screw extraction pliers, I find that they help. Oil is not a good idea for the reason stated above, but a shot of heat can help free things. Personally I think that you can do more harm by pussyfooting about. If the pliers and/ heat don't work then plan the surgery and cut out the minimum necessary to release the plate nut. Replace wood with wood, fillers and epoxies are OK, until another bolt shears off. it is worth checking to see if the bolt was bottoming in it's blind hole before, or just as it started to clamp onto the action box. Certainly check after the repairs are completed.
  15. so it is a 20 key Anglo, circa 1874, based on data from the same source. Wes was right, not a 48 key instrument.
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