d.elliott

One common work around, particularly if the plate nuts have stripped and a replacement 'good' thread will not engage any more. 6BA set screws, and tap the nut out in situ. You usually end up changing the full set both ends, for cosmetic reasons. You can try and get a replacement bolt with it's nut complete, and then modify the bellows frame to suit, hopefully without spoiling the leather work. I have done both, the benefit of the 6BA is that it is inherently stronger, and you can have commercially available setscrews or bolts, remember to specify a fillister head, not a standard cap head.

No experience of a claim, thank goodness, however I take pains to reduce the probability of cosmetic damage, about 8 yrs ago I started getting bespoke trywall shipping cartons made. think that in my case the damage would be nil or catastrophic.So far, I have only needed to used them within the UK, with defined delivery windows and signature. DPD communicate with the recipient about when to expect delivery and give them options for re-schedule. I had not been bothered about the 14 days issue, but if shipping to very distant shores, I would look into this further. Typically shipping a £3k instrument by DPD the insurance has been less than £5 (in Euros) Dave

I Have modified instruments to help people with large hands, lengthening the palm rests a little, raising their height and moving them back a bit away from the buttons. By combing all three actions it did not take too much change in any one axis to make a difference.

like the air button, probably tunes it to the post war BBC Light Programme

I have found it cheaper more practical to split shipping and insurance. The shipping agents seem to have exorbitant rates. There is a French company Secursus for insurance and DPD as the most reliable. Using this combination I have had door to door, tracking, on-time delivery and the comfort of cover from a specialist shipping insurer. Dave

I can remember being in a small playing group, and John Dixon used to join us occasionally. I also played alongside Archie Watson, the last surviving member of the Mexborough concertina band. He had been a bugler in the first world war, and joined the band to join his brother and uncle straight on demobbing. Archie had a wonder band playing style.

I like it Jim, well played.

Just finished re-jigging all the reed positions, valving, valve springs and tuning of a Lachenal double action English bass concertina ('c' bass), now servicing a Wheatstone 48k English treble. Playing wise just some Simon & Garfunkle Stuff. Dave

I have a Wakker bass in for service, solidly made, heavy, all Wakker's own made instruments are well crafted and the better instruments use traditional reeds for the authentic sound. The bass is a bit ploddy and not as responsive as the owner would like, but other Wakkers have been reasonable. Dave

Arti, Absolutely, not a good idea!, save it for your walking boots.

I Guess that the answer is basically you don't. the oils and carrier media soak into the leather, under the glued joints and weaken the bellows assembly. it taints decorative papers as well. The waxy residue attracts dust and grime makings matters worse. The lanolin you used could well have started the problem. The beeswax and lanolin will make repair very difficult as glues will not like to stick to the contaminated surface. Just keep bellows clean and frequently articulated, preferably by playing.

Clive, if it is your concertina, your risk, If you are advising others then you really need to be super sure. All you can do is relate your own experiences. D

What is it? surely that is not a concertina layout?

Thanks Downright that is very helpful, Yes 48k bone buttons.

I have tried various mild 'pickling' processes on scrap reeds (I hasten to say). I have seen rust eaten away and the remaining steel like old lace. I have tried some of the propriety kitchen cleaners for metal surfaces, they sort of work but you can end up with a copper coating on the steel, and odd looking brass. You also have to kill the chemical, I put the reed into a plastic sieve and poured boiling water over them. The residual heat in the reed assembly dried things out nicely. My conclusion was that the best and surest way to remove rust is mechanically by contact brush or small scrapers made from watch makers screw drivers. Just ensure that the reed is supported at all times. Alex is absolutely right ANY OIL on a reed tongue is a contaminant that will attract dust and clog up the works. Dave