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Rod Pearce

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Everything posted by Rod Pearce

  1. I am on the lookout for a 30 key anglo that I can restore, with the intention of keeping it as a progression from my existing 20 key (Lachenal, badged as Campbell's Glasgow). I do not want to pay more than £400 to £500 for the instrument before renovation as I am still in the early stages of learning, but would naturally like to get as good a quality as I can. AS EBAY is the likely source for me, seeing / playing the instrument before buying is probably not an option. Are there any rules of thumb that would indicate overall quality. All I have to go on at the moment is price, look (eg fretwork) and makers name. For example, - is the complexity of fretwork pattern and indicator of quality? - are the reeds better in more expensive instruments? - ditto action? I would be grateful for any thoughts. Rod
  2. Daniel, thank you for your input. I have a small collection of 20 key and 48 key instruments that I have restored over the last few years, Lachenal and Wheatstone.. The 'Campbells' Lachenal I am currently learning on actually came from Chris Algar about 18 months ago. I bought it as needing the pads and valves replacing, and one of the ends was badly damaged. I made a new end for it, updated the internals, polished and tuned it. I am very happy with the result and I think it is the best player (before and after pictures attached). I did contact Chris earlier this year with regard to a 30 key for restoration but at the time he had none available. I will probably refresh my interest and see what develops.
  3. Ken, Wolf, Dave Thank you all for your replies, very helpful. Best regards Rod
  4. I have just purchased an instrument described as a Lachenal 30 key Anglo as a keeper for myself, fully expecting it to require some work. On opening it up I find that the reed pans each contain 16 reeds , but there are only 15 buttons per side (excluding the air button). Both have different numbers stamped on them.and both are different to the number in the action box bezel. So, parts from 3 different instruments. There is also an inscription inside saying the instrument has been repitched to B flat.from C. I want the instrument to be in C, so will have to retune it. All components do seem to be in good condition, except for wear and tear. eg it needs new pads, valves Should I be concerned, or just go ahead with the renovation?
  5. Rod Pearce

    Advice sought on multi source Anglo

    Dave Thanks for your advice. I have decided not to risk it and have agreed with the seller to return the instrument. I am really disappointed because I was looking forward to getting to grips with my first 30 key anglo
  6. Rod Pearce

    Advice sought on multi source Anglo

    Dowright Because of the issues I deceided to return the instrument, but took photographs beforehand. The number in the Action box bezel is 149241 Right hand reed pan is 188108 Left hand reed pan is 198854
  7. Is it not possible to take a photograph of the reed slot from the end of the pan, blow it up and print that? You could also blow up the angle as you suggest.
  8. I have a 20 key Anglo that I have recently restored and tuned, but I am now having trouble with 3 reeds on the left hand side that are breathy, causing them to sound quieter that the rest and a lot of bellows travel. The reeds are steel. Several times I have adjusted the reeds and the breathiness reduces but it comes back after playing the instrument for 15 mins or so (I say playing, but as a beginner I really mean attempting to play). The worst case is note C (3rd finger, push). Can anyone offer any advice on how I can sort the problem? Thanks in anticipation. Rod
  9. Rod Pearce

    'Breathy' reeds that won't adjust

    Frank, Theo I have checked the fit of the reeds and they are all tight. However I did notice as I removed the reed pan that the inside chamois had become flattened and hardened with age. I roughed this up a little and re-closed the instrument. Hey presto! The breathiness has disappeared and the reeds in question are much louder and more responsive. The whole instrument feels much tighter. Next step is to repeat on the remaining chamois. Thanks again for your invaluable advice. Regards Rod
  10. Rod Pearce

    'Breathy' reeds that won't adjust

    Frank Thank you for your response. I'll check it over and see if any of this applies. Regards Rod
  11. Rod Pearce

    Thumb Strap Instructions

    No problem Bill. Glad to be of assistance. Best regards Rod
  12. How long would you expect a recently tuned instrument to stay in tune for? I have tried to find some information by searching the forums but the number of hits from searching 'Tuning' is enormous. So I have opened a new thread on this subject. I have tuned a number of instruments over the last 12 months, all reeds to within 1.5 cents after several passes. However, I have noticed that when checking the instruments after a few weeks / months a number of reeds have gone out of tune, or just not sounding correctly. Is this to be expected ie an instrument'ss tuning should be expected to change periodically? If this were the case surely the majority of instruments in day to day use would be out of tune. Is it that the reeds are getting past it and are no longer able to retain their tuning for long periods? Any thoughts would be appreciated
  13. Rod Pearce

    Thumb Strap Instructions

    Bill have made 2 sets of straps from the kit, and still have the CD with the instructions on. I can send you the files by PM later. There a 4 files on the CD, the larget being 9mb. Rod
  14. RAc I made the suggestion of using a chromatic tuner as Larry's original post was referring to a tone generator, which would have required a very good ear to tune the suspect reed. He was also only concerned with a single reed, not a complete re-tune. The suggestion was made in good faith.
  15. Try downloading some free chromatic tuning software (AP Tuner for example). This will enable you to accurately check the pitch of the note as you make adjustments. I have cut and pasted the display screen from the help pages. The idea is to get the needle to 0 for the note in question, in your case D#. Just google AP tuner, the download is available at a number of sites.
  16. Hi Alec You say it is a new concertina. Is it new, or just new to you. If it is new then Wolf's reply about older valves would not apply.
  17. Rod Pearce

    Snapped off end bolts

    If you need replacements try Mark LLoyd-Adey at Concertina-=Spares.com
  18. Does anyone use this software for tuning concertinas? I have been using it for a while, and I would like to understand if anyone else experiences what I would call 'bounce' as the tuned reed is sounded. Although I am expanding / contracting the bellows at a steady rate, as if the instrument is being played, I get different readings on the display depending on where the bellows are in the compression cycle. The reading can vary by as much as 10 cents. I am assuming I should take the reading as near to the middle of the compression cycle rather than at the start or.finish? Rod
  19. Rod Pearce

    Peterson Strobosoft Tuning Software

    Theo Thank you. I'll try this approach. Rod☺️
  20. Rod Pearce

    Peterson Strobosoft Tuning Software

    Chris, Theo Thank you for your feedback. I believe the process I am using is somewhat flawed, as I have been sounding each reed in the concertina sitting on my lap, the reed pan in situ and holding the action box in place without screws while expanding the bellows. I do have a tuning rig but was unable to get the reeds tuned closely enough to make using it worthwhile. This afternoon I have made a frame to hold the tuning bellows and will start using this for initial tuning. It should improve the consistency. When it comes to fine tuning and sounding the reeds in the instrument, do you tune/ install / sound the reeds individually, or do a side at a time to minimise the number of times you need to reassemble the instrument? I went for one at a time, hence the process I described above. Many thanks Rod
  21. Rod Pearce

    Tuning stability

    Dana Thank you for replying. I am now feeling more comfortable with the idea that although the reeds were tuned pretty accurately, I should expect some settlement over time. I will of course be fine tuning them again and hopefully the long term results will be better. Rod
  22. Rod Pearce

    Tuning stability

    Tom Thanks for your very thorough and enlightening explanation. It will take me some time to assimilate it! I am unable to open the attachment, though. I am taking from this and Lofty's reply that the reeds are probrbly OK and I should look at other factors. Incidentally. I came across this thread after I posted my initial question. More food for thought. Rod
  23. Rod Pearce

    Tuning stability

    Steve Thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated. As the concertinas in question have undergone a full refit of valves and pads, I would not expect the valves to be the problem. I am encouraged that your Wheatstone has remained stable, there is hope for me yet. When tuning I did notice that a number of the reeds appeared to be quite thin as if they had been tuned a number of times previously. I will be fine tuning these instruments again soon so time will tell. Regards Rod
  24. Hi everyone. I am new to the forum and am seeking some advice. I have repaired a few concertinas in the last few years as a hobby following retirement, and so far I have limited my endeavours to the mechanical components, polishing and tuning. Recently I have acquired an instrument (by Campbells of Glasgow?), very similar to a 20 key Lachenal Anglo I have, with a lot of damage to the fretwork on one end, and decided to have a go at making a new end. I thought I would use my scroll saw for the job and have purchased some rosewood from a reputable luthier supplier in the UK. So far I have completed about half of the work but I have to say that I am not very happy with the finish I am getting. I am comparing it to the good end which is cut so precisely that anything I do by hand is going to look inferior. Am I wasting my time trying to repair in this way, and is it likely to devalue the instrument? Any thoughts / advice would be much appreciated. Best regards Rod
  25. Rod Pearce

    Remaking ends by hand

    Here is the finished end - minus the strap. I persevered with the scratch stock to get the curved bevelled edge. I sharpened the end of the scratch stock blade, which seemed to make all the difference. After planing each edge to a straight bevel, I then followed up with the scratch stock to remove the remaining wood and used a curved needle file and glasspaper to achieve the final finish. I am pretty pleased with the end result, for a first attempt!
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