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Rod Pearce

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Everything posted by Rod Pearce

  1. Alex, Theo Thank you. I have ordered some Titebond III as the technical blurb says it has a longer open time. I also found references to Titebond Cold Press for Veneer Rod
  2. Peter Thanks, much appreciated. I am a bit concerned that if I don't separate the laminates I will not be able to get glue to all surfaces that need it. I do have the end screws and holes that should enable me to line the two layers up before glueing. Second thoughts about using hide glue though - I'm not sure it will stay workable for long enough. Paul Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated. Rod
  3. Paul The reeds are are in reasonable condition, surprisingly! Yes, there is a small amount of rust on most of them, and some of the inner reeds have verdigris on the frames, but I;m sure they will be OK. Peter That is encouraging. My plan is to do something similar, using either hide glue or PVA, depending on what has been used already. I will attempt to separate the two pieces, then glue and clamp between two boards while the glue goes off. Thanks for your feedback Rod
  4. I am embarking on a major renovation of this instrument, which is effectively in pieces due to damp (it would appear, due to the presence of white mould, verdegris and rust). First job is to separate everything, clean it up a label it so I know where it goes. I have just managed to separate the Right front from the rest of its action box. Removing the 2 screws from the front was VERY difficult due to rust, and I did have to damage the woodwork a little to get them out Hopefully I can rescue the lever arms if I can remove the rust, All pads and valves need to be replaced, but the sp
  5. Yes and no. I knew it needed work, but I did not expect it to be quite so extensive. It will keep me busy, though,
  6. I have just taken delivery of this instrument. It is in a sorry state. It has obviously been kept in a damp environment as all the card and papers have parted company, and most of the Action box woodwork needs to be re-glued. As I was removing one of the ends to check the serial number it all fell apart! I have my work cut out to rebuild it. The intention is to keep it as my first 30 button instrument, so it would be nice to know something about it if possible Thanks Rod
  7. Very comprehensive - lots to read and digest! Thank you all 😀
  8. While you are inside check the reed is fully pushed home, and the lay of the valve.
  9. Conzertino Thank you for responding. I do not currently own a Duet, nor do I have a specific instrument in mind, I am curious about the different styles after reading about them being different, and I was wondering how you could tell them apart. I have seen pictures of McCann concertinas, but I am not sure I have seen the others - hence the question. Best regards Rod
  10. Geoff Yes, I was assuming the button arrangement. Better get on with researching them then Thanks 😀
  11. Can anyone advise whether it is possible to tell the type of a Duet concertina from the outside, or do you have to get inside it? Rod
  12. I assume you are referring to the leather in the bellows and around the end frames? The leather is generally purchased dyed.. When I made my bellows earlier in the year the valleys were from undyed sheepskin skiver (lack e goat skin leather in the rest of the bellows. You describe that you can see the wood coming through the bellows - this must be on the end frame and would imply through the leather is thinning. Perhaps you should consider reinforcing it be glueing on new end runs.
  13. Alex I've just seen this one. It has internal dimensions of 20cm x 20cm x 17cm. Not sure about the 17cm for your needs, though It might be worth a look Rod https://mcneelamusic.com/new-concertina-black-hard-case/
  14. Karl I am not familiar with the Blackthorn construction, but generally the leather would either be glued with hide glue or PVA. Given the minor extent of the leather coming away, I would suggest you put a small bead of white PVA glue into the gap and press it down to fix it. It should dry in an hour or so. Try not to get any surplus glue onto the outside of the leather, but if you do it can be removed immediately using a damp cloth or paper towel. Rod
  15. Jim You could try violin polish for the woodwork. I have used Super Nicko with good results, available from Beare and Sons. But there are others available on the internet. https://beareandson.co.uk/super-nicko-31-p.asp Regards Rod
  16. Michael I suggest you post this under the Concertina History threads Most people looking for dated put their enquiries there. The user who dates then is Dowright. See existing posts there Regards Rod
  17. Have a look at Alex Holden's website for inspiration https://www.holdenconcertinas.com/?p=831 I made this using Alex's jig as a model. It is cruder, but works very well. THe brass hexagon is an old 22mm stop end for copper pipe with the threads sawn off. Since the photos were taken I have added the guide to the right as per Alex's jig.
  18. Peter Have a look at this website. Section 8. There are a number of Australian makers and repairers listed http://www.concertina.info/
  19. Hi Seth I have finished the bellows, apart from new chamois for the ends. They have compressed down quite well but are tight - you have to use some effort to open / close them, and they don't open as far as they should. They certainly won't fall open at the moment. I don't know the reason, other than they may have been left to dry too long on the jig after the top run linen was glued on. I used hide glue for the linen, and it is possible I used too much or it was too thick? For all the leather work I switched to rabbit glue as this was being recommended by some expert m
  20. Larry Can I refer you to your post from April 16, 2019 on this very topic? Rod
  21. Have you thought about the kit available from Mark LLoyd-Adey at Concertina spares?
  22. I've had the bellows in compression for about a week, on and off, and it seems to be doing the trick. They have reduced in length considerably to about 6 inches, with a little springiness left in them. Once I have fitted the top and end runs they will be going back under compression. Thanks for all the help. Rod
  23. Chris Thank you for this nugget! I had anticipated a couple of days, but this comes as a complete surprise. I don't remember reading anything about such a long period. Another example of how little I know. I can understand your 'in service' comment more easily they will be kept under compression.
  24. RAc Unfortunately I didn't take pictures between fitting the bindings and the gussets. However, I have taken on board your suggestion that the bindings may be contributing to the problem. So I have tried an approach to relax them a bit. I have moistened them all slightly with a damp sponge (they are not wet) to introduce a little moisture, and put the bellows back under compression After a couple of hours I removed them, and found that the amount of spring back has reduced significantly. I will re-compress and leave the whole assembly to dry fully, then see what I have.
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