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Rod Pearce

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Everything posted by Rod Pearce

  1. The restoration of the instrument doesn't phase me, but the reeds look pretty bad. Are they Brass frames with steel tongues? Are they salvageable? Rod
  2. Clive I think the instrument deserves a chance, so I am intending to rebuild it. All the pieces are there, if I can remove the rusted screws from the ends! I believe some of the reeds can be saved so I intend to reuse them if possible, but I will need to find a number of replacements, brass this time!
  3. Stephen In addition to my original post, the description of 189665 you have is correct - spindle cut, 5 fold bellows. If by 'full' you mean solid ends. that would also appear to be correct. I attach some pictures of the ends and bellows in the condition I received the instrument. The bellows were too far gone and have since been discarded. I have almost finished de-rusting the reeds - about 7 or 8 have tongues that are rusted through or have already broken and most of the frames have been pitted by the rust. Its too early to say how many can be saved for re-use, but I would guess less than half. Good luck with your exercise. Best regards Rod
  4. The Evapo Rust has been delivered and I have tried it on the first reed. Initially, as per the instructions, I fully immersed the reed in the liquid and left it for about an hour. I took it out and gave it a quick clean with a rag. The surface rust came off very easily but the heavy corrosion was still solid. So I put it back in the liquid and left it for the 24 hours as per instructions. This time I scraped the surfaces with a fine blade and removed the majority of the rust. Then I used some very fine wet and dry all over, even in the slot and tongue. Afterwards I tried getting a note from the reed by sucking it and after a bit of adjustment it sounded, albeit somewhat muted.πŸ˜€ I am pleasantly surprised at how well the Evapo Rust has worked, but I am not convinced the reed is viable given the amount of rust damage there was. I would think lightly rusted reeds would make a much better recovery. 59 reeds to go - some worse, some better😡 See before and after pictures attached
  5. Alex, Clive Thank you. I have ordered some Evapo Rust and will see how that goes Rod
  6. David, Paul Thank you for the feedback. I have managed to extract the reed pans from the ends, and the reeds on the outer sides are just as bad (not looking forward to the lever arms, but I do have some spares of those). I have had a go at one reed using very fine wet and dry paper. It has come up surprising well and I can even get a muted note from it. Unfortunately a lot of the other reeds are in a worse condition. Once I have removed them from the pans (no mean feat by the look of it) I am considering soaking them in a wet solution (white vinegar, bicarbonate of soda paste) to loosen before using some steel wool or similar abrasive that I have to hand. If that doesn't work I will buy a fibreglass pen and try that. This was never a good quality instrument by the look of it, so it will never be a 'silk purse'. But if I can get it back to a playable standard without spending lots of money it will be worthwhile. Ros
  7. I have just been passed a recently acquired instrument for possible renovation. It is effectively a complete rebuild - bellows beyond repair, broken and cracked reed pans and ends, etc. It has obviously been kept in a damp environment as the reeds themselves are heavily rusted. Serial number is 189665. The reed frames themselves are also rusted - this is a surprise to me as I didn't realise that the frames themselves can be made from steel, as I have only seen brass frames to date. I can only see the inner reeds because the action box screws are also heavily rusted (bellows have been removed). I am reasonably comfortable with the rebuild itself. However the reeds are a different story (pictures attached). Given the amount of rusting, are they worth trying to save? If so, what would be the best approach to minimise long term damege? I would appreciate your advice. Regards Rod
  8. Contact Mark Lloyd-Adey of Concertina Spares https://concertina-spares.com Try contacting him by phone first, as he doesn't always get to his email. This is from his 'Contact Me' page Contact me Either by email: mark@concertina-spares.com By telephone – from 10.00am – 6.00pm – 01650511888 (Sat and Sun I may be out – do leave a message) By post – Mark Lloyd-Adey. Bodfan, Cemmaes, Machynlleth, Powys, SY20 9PR.
  9. Does Jones use any identification marks for Steel Reeds?
  10. Can anybody tell me what the 'Metal Reeds' stamp on the end of a Jones 20b concertina refers to - Brass or Steel? Thanks, Rod
  11. Yes Alex, I think you are right. Never noticed it before
  12. I have just had a brief look at the Pano Tuner website, and the display only seems to show the note value and frequency (eg A and 440.0 hz). Other tuners also show how many cents the note being sounded is above or below the required pitch I believe this is what Alex is referring to, and it seems cents is not available on that tuner. Bill the farmer tuner does appear to show cents, so I suggest you use that one if you are familiar with it. When you sound the note it will show you what note it is nearest to and how many cents above or below that note it is. You are looking to get it to as near as 0 cents as possible, So Sound the reed Look at what the tuner says the note is and how far above/below pitch it is in cents. Tune the reed up or down and re-sound until you get as near as you can to 0 cents. Does this make sense?
  13. A simpler table, Equal Temperament https://pages.mtu.edu/~suits/notefreqs.html
  14. Double check your Target values. You have D#5 as 662.25 but I believe it is 622.25! See this table of note values. You can use it to work out what your current reeds are set to. Better still your tuner app may tell you https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piano_key_frequencies Providing the reeds have not be tuned too much you should be able to retune by half a tone up or down relatively easily.
  15. Nigel It is likely that the new pads you fit will be thicker that the ones you remove, which will have been compressed over the years. This will affect the height of the buttons, which you would need to adjust by bending the lever arms. From memory this is described in Dave's book.
  16. John Try Googling 'Concertina Plans', I got back this list of threads from the forum. I don't think they will work as threads as I just cut and pasted them from the Google search results. Maybe there are some useful tips in them? Construction plans/drawings? - CONCERTINA.net - https://www.concertina.net β€Ί forums β€Ί 10871-constructi... 18 Feb 2010 β€” ... able to find any anglo construction plans so I can build my own. ... Traditionally-built concertinas use individual concertina reeds ... Where To Buy Plans And Reeds For Concertina 16 Jul 2007 Make your own! - Instrument Construction & Repair 4 Apr 2010 Concertina Building - Instrument Construction & Repair 3 Aug 2005 Instrument Plans For The Builder? - CONCERTINA.net 22 Jun 2005 More results from www.concertina.net
  17. Christian To clean the ends and improve their finish I have used Super NIcko burnishing cream, recommended to me by an ex luthier and French Polisher. It is a little expensive, but you shouldn't need a lot. It is used by violin makers / repairers to clean those instruments. Available from Beare and Son, Β£5 https://beareandson.co.uk/super-nicko-31-p.asp Regards, Rod
  18. Paul I contacted Steve a while ago. He said he has no stock of brass for reed making. He did offer some advice of what spec of material to use, together with a possible source. I am reluctant to 'publish' Steve's his comments for general viewing without his permission as it was a one to one conversation. However, if you feel you would like to know his comments then PM me and I will OK it with Steve first. Rod
  19. If you have a fretsaw with a fine blade you may be able to cut a slot in the top of the broken bolt and turn it out with a small screwdriver.
  20. Hi Geoff Is the button bushed? If so has this worn allowing the button to move sideways? Similarly, the locating hole for the button, is this enlarged? Has the lever arm or pivot post become bent, pulling the pad over? Has the pad loosened over time, and need securing? Check the affect the spring is having as you press the button up and down. I have had the situation where the spring pulls to one side rather than staying put. A small tweak to one side has cured the problem, or a replacement spring. Have you tried operating the button with the end removed so you can see exactly what is going on? I'm sure there are other possibilities.
  21. Don, Dave Thanks for your replies. I will go with the source I have found and see how it goes Regards Rod
  22. I had raised this post as a continuation of an earlier thread entitled Making A Brass Reed For An Antique English Concertina , but it has become overshadowed. So I am raising it as a new thread in its own right in the hope of attracting further responses. I am interested in having a go at making some new brass reed tongues to replace several broken ones in a Lachenal 48 key English, but I don't know what specification of brass to use. There are a number of UK suppliers of brass sheet on the internet, e.g. https://www.metaloffcuts.co.uk/product/natural-brass-sheet/ but I would not know what proportions of copper / zinc would be suitable for concertina reed tongues. This website sells its sheets with the following specification , Grade CZ108 (Cross references UNS – C27200, ISO – CuZn37, EN – CW508L) also known as common brass and has a composition of 67% copper and 37% zinc ( I know the maths doesn't add up, but that is what it says). Would this be suitable? If you can offer any advice I would appreciate it. Thanks, Rod Chris, thank you for your earlier response . I will follow this up.
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