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About rcr27

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    Chatty concertinist

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    Concertinas & Accordions
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  1. This concertina is no longer for sale
  2. Would you say is sheepskin leather? Are the card shims glued to the pillars?
  3. Interesting, in my case the small fretwork screw protrudes too far through the action board and is sticking out a little bit. I’d be great if you could open it up and post a photo of the back of the fretwork. Was the red net common on Anglos from this period? I might as well leave it there but it does look a bit odd. When I received (in original condition), the right side was significantly dustier than the left side.
  4. I see, I’ve been told that if the baffles are not replaced, there is a gap as thick as the leather, so the support pillar is not touching the end and therefore not doing what it is there for. And also to prevent dust obviously as the red net that is fitted right now doesn’t help.
  5. I have a Rosewood Lachenal Anglo No. 178102 (not sure if the last number is 2, 3 or 8.) It doesn’t have leather baffles but it has a red netting instead, don’t know if this is original. Anyway, I want to replace this with leather baffles, my question is what type of leather was/is used for this? Was it originally red for the anglos of this period? (My concertina is the same model as the photo below)
  6. Best thing to do as a beginner is to choose a cheap 20 key lachenal (or other make) in good original condition that only needs the basic renovation (repad, revalve and retune) so that if anything goes wrong, you’re not ruining what could be a potentially good player.
  7. Dowright, would a Lachenal Anglo No. 172103 date of 1891 approximately?
  8. No, not at all, it was just a light reflection.
  9. Now sold Selling a Lachenal C/G 30-key rosewood Lachenal that I bought as a restoration project but due to the lack of time that I have right now it has to go. The serial number is 160470. It’s in good original condition (unrestored) and shouldn’t be a difficult task to restore because it hasn’t been messed with before, all the original parts are there. It has been stored in its wooden case unplayed for a long time but it’s still playable. The asking price is £1000 or very nearest offer. Will also be advertised on ebay, but I’d much rather sell through this forum and m
  10. Thanks, all the buttons have a similar pressure (apart from one or two) but I’d like to make sure they’re all even.
  11. What device/gauge is recommended to check the key pressure? (and how?) How should any adjustments be made? My springs (brass I believe) are all in good condition but one particular key has a significantly lower pressure than the others. It’s a Lachenal non-riveted action. Thanks in advance Roger
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