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About alex_holden

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    Heavyweight Boxer
  • Birthday 02/06/1980

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  • Interests
    Wood carving, metalwork, Morris Minors, folk music.
  • Location
    Lancashire, England

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  1. I'm close to completing a 62 button Hayden with the attached layout (specified by my client). I fit it into a 7 3/4" octagon, but it was a tight squeeze. There are lots of pictures of it on my Instagram.
  2. The Franglo right hand has more buttons than the left (25 buttons over three unequal curved rows) and a totally different hand strap/rail arrangement, with an English-like thumb loop for stability. I'm not sure if this photo link will work; you might need to be a member of the Concertinas are Cool Facebook group to see it: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4287587201269643&set=p.4287587201269643&type=3
  3. That's rather nice. It's hand engraved, not a stamp, though the design is clearly based on their printed label.
  4. Out of curiosity, were these tunes recorded individually and then somehow spliced together onto one master disc, or did the orchestra have to play the whole medley in one take?
  5. A recent discussion about Anglo note range brought up a question about a difference between the Wheatstone/Lachenal layout and the Jeffries layout. On a 30 button C/G Anglo, the third row furthest right button on the push. This tends to be A6 on Wheatstones/Lachenals. On at least one original Jeffries I've inspected, it is A5 instead. As @Pistachio Dreamerpointed out, the Wheatstone version makes sense because they already an A5 push on the second button of the right hand third row. Jeffries don't have A5 on the second button, and A6 is such a high pitch that it rarely gets played,
  6. I did one using hot foil and found that it's very difficult to get the stamp positioned accurately with no missing or double-printed bits. If one of the sides goes wrong you pretty much have to remove the whole end run and try again. Alternatively you can try stamping all the designs onto the strip of leather using a foil press before you glue it to the bellows, but then you have the problem that if the patterns aren't spaced just right they won't end up centred on the sides. At some point I plan to try again using the traditional gold leaf method, which is a bit more complex but g
  7. A general principle in software development is to be liberal in what you accept and strict in what you output. The exception is if the main purpose of your program is to test for standards-compliance. That doesn't mean you need to code special cases to handle every possible incorrect input, but your program shouldn't crash or generate garbage output when it encounters something it doesn't understand.
  8. I would want to see it in person to check that it's real, but if it is then the current price (£3000) is a bargain.
  9. Anglo layouts can vary a bit from instrument to instrument, particularly on the third row. These are the pitches in a 38 button Jeffries G/D I built. Note that there are some gaps in the scale, e.g. there's no Bb2 or Bb5: G2 B2 C3 D3 E3 F3 F#3 G3 G#3 A3 Bb3 B3 C4 C#4 D4 Eb4 E4 F4 F#4 G4 G#4 A4 Bb4 B4 C5 C#5 D5 Eb5 E5 F5 F#5 G5 G#5 A5 B5 C6 C#6 D6
  10. I disagree; the low-end Crabb end plates are simple but elegant and crisply cut, obviously the work of a skilled professional. This one has a very crude amateur feel.
  11. I was just looking closely at it, and it's very similar but I don't think it's the same one. It has seven fold bellows (which look original) and the one in the photo appears to have eight; also the shape of the pierced area on the right hand end plate is a bit different.
  12. It's short low-pitched reeds that are slower to start and more prone to bending flat, because they need a heavy weight at the tip to pull the pitch down and that gives it a lot of inertia. Note that a heavily weighted reed takes a while to start up "from cold" but will also keep vibrating for a second or two after you release the button, so if you play the note twice in quick succession (in the same direction) it will sound much more quickly the second time.
  13. They may have used the Victorian equivalent of one of these: https://www.customstampsonline.com/product/6-band-line-numberer To get a more authentic look, you might separate out the digits and jiggle them up and down a tiny bit so they aren't perfectly on the baseline.
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