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Mike Hulme

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About Mike Hulme

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/24/1956

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Uilleann Pipes (Playing & Making), Fiddle, ITM and now... Concertina!
  • Location
    Liverpool UK

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  1. Rushworth and Dreaper were active in Liverpool and Chester from the early 20th Century until around 2000. The "Islington" stamp on your instrument refers to their Head Office in the city. On other sites they built church organs, and had a violin making workshop which turned out the "Ardeton" models of violins, violas and cellos. Ardeton standing for Ar (Rushworth) De (Dreaper) Isling(ton). They were retailers of all sorts of musical instruments. They imported orchestral instruments from European workshops, in various qualities, and labelled them "Apollo Model x" for up to 12 grades of strings, with "Ardetons" being totally hand made in their own workshops. And, yes, they did commission concertinas in various grades. Many years ago I had one of their retail catalogues and there were both English and Anglo models in in various qualities, so it does not surprise me to find a Crabb turning up. Liverpool was a wealthy city and only the best would do for the well off.
  2. I had to do this recently, also on a Lachenal, and used a similar method to Don's. The plate retaining screws were rusted in and I removed these by applying a hot soldering iron to the slots in the screws and heating them up. The important point is that you need a screwdriver that fills the slot to remove the screws cleanly - by giving the screws a sharp tightening "nip" before loosening them. Once out I clamped each plate flush with the tops of a vice and used a scriber to unscrew the sheared bolts. I used a few drops of Plus Gas to free the threads, with a sharp tap from a small hammer before gently chasing out the tapped bolt remains. The advantage with this method is that it retains all the original thread in the plate and you may be able to source used bolts to replace them. If not then you can tap them 2.5 mm and get some brass filister/cheesehead bolts to replace them. Mike
  3. Mike Hulme

    Box to USA

    Freddy, I send a lot of stuff to the USA; here are the important bits: You need to declare the classification of your instrument using the Harmonised Tariff Code, which for concertinas and accordions is: You should put this on the Waybill and the Commercial Invoice you send with the package. The US should not charge duty on concertinas, but that would be at the recipient's cost, not yours. I would NOT use Fedex; they sometimes try to charge import duty on duty free goods. From the UK I normally use Rand Logistics to broker reliable services. The CITES rules on exotic woods such as Rosewoods and Blackwood are ambiguous to say the least. Old instruments are commonly ignored. Antique instruments (pre-1947) with Ivory parts (buttons/keys) should be exempt from interference, but I would be wary. Send me a PM if you need more clarification. Mike
  4. I bought an 80 key Maccann Duet from South Africa last year. The only difference in the reed frames during later years of production was that they were made of aluminium rather than brass and the reeds were of the traditional type. Mine was made in 1956. Can you post a photo of the reed pan? Mike
  5. Wunks, The dots are in Paul Hardys Xmas tune book. It's also in G. Mike www.pghardy.net/concertina/tunebooks
  6. Plus, the Post Office/Parcelforce add on their fee for Customs clearance. (Postage wise a 5kg concertina package cost 2300 Rand to import in July. Timewise, it took 6 weeks for the package to get to the UK. Be prepared to get the package from the Parcelforce Depot, and pay by Card/Cash because you don't have an account, but it did arrive safely in the end. Mike
  7. My copy arrived this morning. Ive had a quick skim through it and I am very impressed. Nicely laid out and easy to read. Mike
  8. Nice one, Adrian and Gary! Just ordered one from Amazon UK Should be here by next week andI'm really looking forward to getting to grips with it. Mike
  9. Thanks for the info. There are no internal markings on the pans, which were cleaned when the bellows were replaced. It is in remarkably good condition for a 140 year old instrument. Mike
  10. Any idea when this Lachenal 30 key anglo was made please? Serial No: 50477 Rosewood ends, steel reeds, bone buttons. Thanks, Mike
  11. Mathhag, If you are worried about the effects of heat on your instruments then turn your central heating down to around 60 degrees Fahrenheit and put a bowl of water under your radiators. I keep a stock of stringed instruments awaiting repair/restoration out of their cases under these conditions and have never had problems. (Michael Darnton may want to comment on this?) Cheers, Mike
  12. I've released bound in woodscrews by holding a soldering iron to the screw for a few seconds. It also helps to tighten the screw sharply before trying to unscrew it.
  13. Hi Adrian, Chestnut, or no, its one of the pieces I played as a beginning guitarist 50 years ago, Lovely playing! When will the text be published, or are you waiting to record all the pieces therein before publication? Cheers, Mike
  14. I could use a set of these and the taps. Please check your PMs Cheers, Mike
  15. Thanks! I'd forgotten about the search function. On looking at the photos in the other threads my buttons are not too bad at all, but I will clean them anyway. Mike
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