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Everything posted by fiddler2007

  1. Edgley professional C/G Anglo #539, jeffries system. Tuned and modded with leather gaskets below the end-plates, since the buttons were sticking out about 3 mm too much, IMO a slight design problem. The buttons had too much sideways moving space and felt not right during fast playing. Not anymore now ! Fast responding and loud instrument, i played a few Anglo and English brands and this would be quite a fav for gigs. Only selling because of the wife complaining that it's too loud and i want to keep her happy .... PS EU import duties have been paid for, 1900 Euros. 20% less if sold outside the European Union, like the UK or USA. Shipping to UK and USA can be expensive; due corona delays i would recommend UPS or DHL. Leather covered sturdy case included.
  2. Hi Jake. Mitch Bramich' uses the same layout for jeffries throughout his book. see picture. As my heritage Edgley was configured that way i never thought there was an 'English' jeffries-style. And then i met with another Edgley, which had your layout LoL
  3. Recently i ran into some problems converting wheatsone to jeffries layouts, and got confused about the Jeffries layout versions around for a C/G (and G/D). My first Anglo was a heritage Edgley i bought from Mike Rowbotham, some 2 years ago. As i play by ear i never realized that the first two top row (3-1 and 3-2) were different on mine, than considered to be 'normal' for a jeffries layout. Official layouts according a few sites i found recently are different as fitted on mine, see picture below. (From Jake Middleton's site). With my Edgley the red and blue reeds were exchanged. Blue is were the red is (on the picture). I have a copy of Mick Bramich' book where the same jeffries layout is also used ... I got used to that layout, and found f.i. that playing tunes in D and A are easier with my swapped situation on a C/G. (I tried the unchanged version recently on an other 'normal' C/G jeffries.) Chording seems also a little easier ... (Then i was converting an old hybrid Edgley G/D, from wheatstone to jeffries, according the 'rules' with the help of reeds bought from Jake. A friend actually did the wood chopping and mounting job according these 'official' rules LoL. And i quickly i exchanged the two involved reeds.) Now the Q: what is considered normal, as i got used to the inverted (red-blue) situation and even found the official (?) jeffries version worse than the wheatstone system for fast playing without too much bellows direction changes.
  4. I bought my first (English) concertina new from Harry Crabb back around '74. He instructed me two things for a lifelong problem free use, and he was right: 1) if you come in from the cold, first use the air button to load the interior up with the warmer air a few times, thereby avoiding condensation settling on the reeds. 2) use a soft brush to keep the bellows folds clean from dust and other debris. In over 30 years of use it never needed tuning or bellows maintenance. Only the thumbstraps needed a small fix ...
  5. I have had 4 conflicts with paypal recently. 2 examples: 1) as buyer on eBay i bought official looking but later appeared to be counterfeit-pirated software. I claimed after an eBay obliged useless discussion with the seller. Ebay then told me file a claim with paypal. To my surprise paypal closed the case in favor of the fraudulent seller without further comments or follow up correspondence possible. I was lucky VISA stepped in on my request as the claim procedure was within the EU and paypal was paid via VISA. So after 3 months of sh*t with paypal they were forced to pay me back. Seems Paypal's interest is only that they keep their provision. 2) as seller i sold an antique synthesizer. delivered OK, buyer was really happy with it and posted 100% about the deal on Ebay. But that sh*t paypal kept my money for over 3 weeks after the shipment was done. Even the buyer mailed paypal to release my money. No way. ------------ Paypal was reliable though expensive 3 years ago, now they are expensive still and not to be trusted. A general tip on more reliable deals might be: Pay (or get paid) via a Mastercard or VISA through WISE (transferwise) or Instarem bank transfers. Exchange rates and costs are really fair, money transfer speed is usually about 1 to 2 days. Drawback is as buyer that you don't have any control about promised quality of something you bought. You still need to suss out about the person you're buying from, but with a real fraud you might be protected via your credit card. I asked VISA but i think the goods them selves are not covered, but only the money transfer itself sent. IF ANYONE more experiences with this or even paypal alternatives: I am really curious! I am no longer selling or buying stuff on eBay via paypal. They cannot be trusted.
  6. PS the more expensive reeds like Voci tip a mano are made more precise than the cheaper reeds. Reeds are fitted precisely in the reedplate slots, thus more air efficient and the instruments are less asthmatic and faster responding than the cheaper brands.
  7. probably a cat's hair, wax chip, wood splinter etc blocked it.
  8. But keep your ears open trying that ...
  9. Cheeks are very sensitive for finding a bellows- or frame leak ....
  10. In case someone needs a kick in the butt to get going: As experienced fiddler-melodeon-guitar teacher i picked anglo up a while ago after my English Crabb got stolen, i can help you get started? ------- Realize two important things for making music in general: Where most beginners fail at, is learning to really play by ear. An Irish farmer-fiddler said to me in his local Sligo pub: You cannot play any tune properly if you cannot lilt it first. Next BIG thing is don't get a brain fixation with reading tabs, notes, what ever. Written music makes perfect toilet paper when shove comes to push. It has nothing to do with playing real music. This is also where ALL classically trained violinists fail in learning to play a decent fiddle. Once you have a tune figured out, throw away the books and listen to what you do. Use your brain's memory instead for the musical fixes probably needed. Especially learn to hear the things you do that don't sound 'right'. If they do and differ from the written notes? Hurray, you now are a musician ... ------------------- Tip i learned years a go: do something else at the same time while practicing like watching football, telling a joke, what ever. With any stage performance you'll need to order at least a beer from that nice waitress, or shoot the sound engineer while having your solo. Play with friends, to get rid of the oops, wrong note and an excuse to stop playing, and force yourself to play out the whole tune completely with all the mistakes. Call it your own version? Soulful music comes by playing from the heart (as in: it's a mental thing). Stephan Grapelli said once: if you make a mistake, do it again, and every one thinks it's the right way. Happy Squeezing.
  11. guess not ... was curious 'bout the piccolo thing.
  12. Yep, agree with Jake. Music is more important. I know a guy who gets great music out of any instrument. Must be his soul doing that. ------ My personal experience sofar: My heritage Edgley sounds quite better and less brittle or harsh, than my G/D Edgley with hybrid reeds. I had a Harry Crabb English for over 40 years, handmade reeds, great sound too. Drawback seems a bit that my heritage Edgley seems heavier, and therefor feels a bit lazy in response compared to a Hybrid. Maybe not so with other brands? I prefer traditional reeds for sound however, but for fast playing and a more penetrating gig-rig in a battle with banjos i would choose a Hybrid. Especially the higher ranged reeds seem quite louder. To get that loudness with traditional reeds it seems it needs more pressure. IMO that is ! PS bought a hybrid Seth Hamon wheatstone system but i am already used to jeffries layout. It's a real light weight & fast player, very responsive, but i am into selling it instead of a planned conversion for now. (See another post). Needs wood chopping to get that right and i rather not mess with a perfectly made instrument. So i am out shopping for a jeffries system hybrid for gigging now. Hamon's instruments are definitely a step up from the far cheaper McNeela instruments. Guess Jake makes good stuff too, as some others do. PS i'd certainly prefer a 7 fold bellows, especially when you're into chording, for a little extra air reserve.
  13. Seth Hamon Professional with Voci a Mano reeds. C/G 30 button Wheatstone layout. 7-fold bellows! Very light and fast player, very well made; alas selling since i recently bought a traditionally built and quite expensive one. Instrument is in as new state. Bellows smell that way LoL. Due 450 Euro EU import duties that have been paid (mainly VAT charges) it makes sense for a buyer within the EU. No import duties then. Price 1900 Euros. BTW I stopped with paypal, it's a scam these days. Tip: get a free money wiring subscription with WISE.com or Intarem, and pay by Mastercard or Visa: You're off far cheaper for eventual exchange-rates and your money transfer is secure and almost immediate. Economy EU insured parcel shipping is around 70 euro's, Fedex is faster but more expensive. Case included. PM me if you live outside the EU, as i can probably get VAT back when exported again within a few months, and thus sell depending location about 19% cheaper. For US buyers i will include a COO form to avoid paying import duties. At costs of approx 100 euro's extra i can arrange a conversion to jeffries system layout, using 4 new Voci a Mano reeds. This will take about 10 days before shipping out.
  14. Usually concertina reed plates are held in place with screws, maybe wax, almost never glued. A stuck reed might have been blocked by some debris, a cats hair, or a splinter of wax etc. It also could be broken ..... See if it moves freely by touching it gently with a small screw driver. Mind you these are small reeds so be careful. Sometimes they get stuck at the sides when not aligned properly. Don't touch it with you fingers, the moist from sweat can cause eventually. Visit a local repair shop or accordion maker?
  15. Found a G/D Edgley, but wheatsone ... Jake Middleton helped me to get the proper jeffries reeds .. Conversion is on it's way by melodeon maker Karel van Der Leeuw in Utrecht. PS i figured out a far better and cheaper payment system than PayPal. Latter is very expensive, and especially sellers face long waiting times before they pay out. Interested? PM me as i would promote 3rd party companies otherwise.
  16. Seen some designs, and IMO a few from obscure makers were not that well made. Put your template request on the Bravenet Cajun accordion forum, there are some experienced makers posting there, John Doucet, Jude Moreau etc. https://pub21.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=1722942123&frmid=16&msgid=0
  17. Sideliner: i once tuned an old melodeon which seemed way out of tune on some reeds. Thoroughly cleaning them and a lot weren't that much off anymore. Accumulated dust, grease, wax debris ...?
  18. Must have had a flat tire or battery at least by now .. value depends quite a bit on condition.
  19. Nope, what i mean is don't put (heavy) pressure on the bellows before you open a key. always be careful with pressure; you should control the volume of a note by gentle pressure variations. Something to practice with slow simple melodies. Tunes like Hector the Hero. Once you get the hang it will come naturally.
  20. Interesting ... i had a Roland FR18 for a brief period, bought it out of curiosity. Nice was that you could program it in all sorts of custom tunings. But as a rock guitar playing friend once said about synthesizers; some are really nice, but still a doorbell. You press a button and you get a (beatiful?) sound. That's also the case with this apparatus. The only synth i ever had capable of emulating something acoustic was a Yamaha VM synth, controlled by an Akai Wind controller. The VM was monophonic so you'll never get a double note out of it. Produced great sax and harmonica type sounds. This Roland FR18 sounded like it's looks; plastic.
  21. Before i started playing Anglo, buying one from Mike Rowbotham when my crabb englsh got stolen, i found out that C/G was the best bet, also the advice given by Mike. That is for Irish trad music. I was experienced on the English system, but after the initial struggles of learning the Anglo, starting with G tunes, and D later, i found it better suited for playing Irish but also American trad fiddle tunes. A modal works, but some A major stuff is less logical. C,D of course are OK, E and F are less easy. Although i am an experienced Cajun melodeon player (f.i. D-onerow) the way to play tunes in D on a C/G is a different ball game. Must be easier in D for a G/D concertina, as G is on a C/G. But you can play tunes in A like i play D tunes; a great plus. You must try to automate the weird fingering patterns in D (for you in A on your G/D), and learn to use all the rows for G also (D for you). With a G/D as your stagi is you'll find it's more like playing in a melodeon style. Most Irish players prefer a C/G systems. I am looking for a G/D a bit especially for song accompany-ing; was also told the larger reeds respond a little slower. That is also where better class reeds excel at; less air-spillage. For a real beginner on bellows driven instruments you must first get the feel that you press a button BEFORE push or pull the bellows. Sudden added pressure on a reed can cause it to go out of tune more quickly, or even break. PS: The good part is that you probably have tunes in your head already. I started with f.i Turkey in the Straw in G, and Soldiers joy in D (on a C/G that is). As i am an improvisational (fiddle) player i found the hardest was to automate my fingering patterns; You can play several notes in push or pull direction. It's a blessing if you feel comfortable there when you run out of air. So time to put out the cat and dog (wife too?), you'll drive them crazy by all means, and have fun.
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