Sprunghub Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 All my previous postings have related to my wife's search for an instrument and subsequent selling thereof when it proved a bit too 'challenging' for a beginner. She is now the happy and improving owner of a modern Clover Anglo, so "off my case" so to speak. Immersed as I was in helping her find something 'nice', I have taken on a 'project' to fill my time. I am a fettler rather than a player at present, so have picked up a pretty rough Lachenal Crane 35b which I have rebuilt at one end, reinforced the other and made a new 'old' handle from some 1850's mahogany and done some very basic work to get it playable in lieu of a full valve and pad replacement which is in hand. I have cleaned the reeds and tuned the oddity of the high F which played F on the pull and E on the push - albeit the carrier was appropriately marked. Both now show correct in tune F on my 'better' Snark tuner. I am aware that all the reeds, within a degree or two on a tuner dial ( I don't understand "cents" ?) consistently show as being almost 2/3rds of a dial above the mid-point on the Snark, ie. 'sharp' over and above the desired note by about '7' snark degrees against the 'note' on the button. Presumably this is 'old' style tuning ? One or two are a 'notch' up or down on that and the very odd one is out of kilter altogether but most show as being pretty closely matched on the pull and push in the same range. I am now faced with the potential for re-tuning the reeds and understand that is done by either removal of metal from the 'belly' ? is that the correct term ? of the reed towards the fixing point ? or as seems less promoted, by adding weight at the tip. Low melt solder seems to be the done thing, although for fine tuning I have read of elements such as nail varnish being used. I am not keen to be working with heat and solder and I am guessing the level of change means nail varnish would be too light weight to make much odds. I have a few very basic questions to clarify re reducing / increasing the weight. Q1 re weighting the tippets of the reed blades. Albeit potentially heretical, so apologies in advance to the experts and purists! is there any reason in principal why cold-cast metal resin can not be used on the reeds in place of low melt solder to add weight to lower pitch and eliminate the need to scratch or file. I ask because of it's ease in working and prior experience of working with it. It is also relatively easily rescuable/reversible if needs be. Q2 If the above is a 'no-no' because of some engineering principal re the tippet etc, on "scratching" / gouging vs. diamond filing. Given the degree of lowering required for 90% of the reeds, how much scratch(ing) / filing is likely to be necessary to get the pitch reduction and given whatever that level of work is,.........is scratching ( to remove metal ) or filing to be preferred ? I do not like the look of 'scratching / gouging' to be honest, but am happy to be guided by those with experience. Q3 Re. the point at which to file ( or scratch ) on the reed, to lower the reeds by the implied amount, I have seen various terms applied to the correct point on the reed at which to work. Generally from/at around the mid-point of the reed, although some seem to suggest it should be done closer to the fixing point/clamp ......or is it a question of reducing it from the mid point towards the clamp rather than working at just one point? I have worked with metal resin on a number of projects and have some confidence in its ability to be worked and fettled/filed in much the same way as solder, hence my asking. I don't have a tuning box/rig, so it'll be have to be done in situe. Any advice much appreciated..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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