Tiposx

Rubber tubing won't work, plastic might for a while. I would find a piece of brass tube that was a good sliding fit over the pin, cut it to length then locate it so that normal action was achieved. The closed end could be capped with a piece of dowel or brass, or even taped over then epoxied (see later) depending on what machining was available. K&S Tubing is available in many different sizes from aircraft model suppliers. Personally I would soft solder on a piece of brass, or turn a piece to fit.Then attach the tube lightly in place with a couple of dabs of thick ca/ superglue. Just strong enough to work but easy to break and re-set if necessary.Then double check the action with the ends attached. When everthing works as good as new I would back fill the gaps with a 10-minute epoxy mixed with microballoons or wood flour. When hard this can easily be sanded back to shape. From the photos there might not be enough space available for a repair based on replacing the missing piece of wood. It's a pity that Stagi got the design wrong (again) as the metal mechanism looks quite well engineered.

There have been a number of notices on Mark's website going back over a year that I am aware of. The notices have mentioned his health, closure to do holidays and some other issues that I can't clearly recall. I have only bought one lot of spares through Mark in September 2018. I didn't find the transaction went very well, (I am being gentle here) but I did receive the order eventually. The materials bought were very good indeed, but I decided that I would not use this supplier again. This is a great shame, as I haven't been able to find suitable spares elsewhere. I wish Mark well, but this is my experience.

Ace ace ace video! I thought I was fuddy duddy - but I might be cool after all with my ec.....

Not my preferred music, but a really loveley performance. This duo is well known and respected over on Melodeon.net

Hi Seth I can't see the Stagi on ebay uk Edit Duh I just realised that your profile says USA.

As you are competent to remove the endplate you will have no trouble replacing the spring. They are made in two types - left handed and r/h. I can never work out which is which so I buy both. Just a bit of wiggling of levers and buttons is all it takes. I don't know where you would buy the springs from in your country though.

Exactly as Jody said, except that as an ec beginner player it might be tempting to transpose everything to C. That might hinder you later on when you play with others.

I will stick my neck out - I owned a Rock Chidley ec, 48 button, 5 fold bellows, tutor style. It was in great condition, having been professionally restored. It had nickel silver reeds, which may be what you have there. I only play itm. My experience was that the 'tina was very quiet, and very hard to play at "beyond hymn" speed. I persevered with my learning for a while, even though my best friend and mentor declared that the concertina was "a dog". Eventually a reed broke, ( documented on this forum) at which point I traded it in for a mid-range Lachenal. After 9 months with the Lachenal I am now ready for an upgrade to something more suited to my style of music. I have played a few posh concertinas now, and there is very clear difference in playability between entry level instruments and those above. So my advice is that the Rock Chidley may be hard work for high bpm music. For playing slow, sweet and quietly it might be ideal.

Concertina reeds sound different to accordion reeds. I can't imagine that being controversial.... After that it's down to personal preference.

Goldy Silver would describe the nickel silver reeds in the 1853 Rock Chidley I owned.

Sounds pretty normal for low notes played slowly on a modern instrument with accordion reeds and plastic valves, it is the valve/valves slapping. If you play it in a tune with a bit of 'snap' it will be less noticeable. I wouldn't worry about it but if it was a real pain then I would replace the noisy valves.

Thanks Don Taylor for pointing out that I originally posted this comment in the wrong section:- I looked at the Mcneela range some time ago before I switched to english layout. As I recall, the Wren has a fiddly metal action similar to a Stagi, possibly using axles, which may be the problem here. The Swan has conventional action with individual levers and posts. I think it has a riveted action and looks well made for the money.

Sorry mis-posted in error.

Thank you Jake and Alex. I hadn't thought of using a flame. I will try both methods on a few test pieces. The 3M Fast Cut is expensive and in big bottles for my needs, so I might try a different brand.

I am experimenting with turning buttons from acetal on my lathe. I can achieve a nice finish with sharp tools, but what I want is a high shine. I have heard of polishing with oiled wet-and-dry emery but not tried it yet. Has anyone experience of polishing acetal or delrin? I have been reading Alex Holden's blog which is a really helpful resource for construction and repair. Tiposx

I didn't even know such a thing existed, but I played a friend's brand new Wheatstone the other evening. An ec with 48 buttons, raised wooden ends and aluminium reed shoes. It was remarkably light and had great dynamic range and a wonderful tone. The thing that really stood out for me though was the action. It was so light and instantaneous that it let all the tunes out so easily. Overall it was outstanding and I didn't want to give it back. However I won't be ordering one - my friend had to wait 10 years for it to be made and delivered. Is there anything else out there, traditional or hybrid that plays as fast and effortlessly? I have played a couple of good Lachenals, which were quite fast, Crabb and a couple of Wheatsones which were fast and responsive. I would think that the age of the instruments is a factor. I need something to aspire to! Discuss.....

It looks similar to this? Same serial number! Email sent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/H-Crabb-Son-Treble-Crabb-1966-English-concertina-/323620861834?nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2349624.m43663.l44720#vi__app-cvip-panel

I sent a Hohner melodeon from UK to Connecticut just a few weeks ago. This was my first export to the States, and I was a bit worried about the process but I took it on as a learning exercise. I dealt with Parcel2Go , but the parcel was picked up by a Royal Mail van. I understand that it was actually carried by Royal Mail. The postage cost including insurance was half the value of the melodeon! This was at the buyer's expense though. I followed the carrier's instructions i.e. It had to go in a flight case, and I completed customs documentation quoting the relevant HTC code. It was completely straightforward. It took only 4 days to deliver. The parcel spent three of those days in the UK. There were no problems, taxes or anything of note. I should point out that some US Government services were closed down for political reasons. This may or may not have been relevant. It was delivered on the same day the 'plane landed, so I doubt very much that it was inspected. Perhaps I was just lucky. Regards Tiposx

I only attend one pub in northern England for the Irish music session but there are two, sometimes three concertina players. They play English system or duets. I am on my second ec this year but am not up to a session yet. I note that a good mid-range Lachenal ec is much cheaper than a 30 button Anglo.

I look on mine as a mini piano, but with but with both hands playing the melody. That halves the work and helps my crackly fingers keep up.

I visited Theo today and within 15 minutes he had fitted and tuned a replacement nickel silver reed whilst I watched. Top bloke!

Thank you for all the advice. I will try Theo first as he is local. Tiposx

Pm to Theo

Update : The reed is definitely dead. It had gone floppy- it looks like it has failed along the step near the base, created by all the reed filing it has had since around 1853. So can anyone suggest a supplier of replacement for this Rock Chidley reed in either nickel silver or brass? Or possibly a source for the whole plate/ reed assembly?I don't know if the size of the reed plate varies between makers. Failing that I will probably have a go at making a new reed from hardened brass sheet.

'Tis now an F......