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Pete Dunk

Jack, Jackie And Rochelle [and Elise!]

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Hi all :)

Could anyone advise me on what should my next step be?

I had the same problem when opening my Rochelle. I found the choice of screwdriver was the key. A good quality Philip's head screwdriver with sharply defined edges on the "cross", and a precise fit to the screw did the trick. A sloppy fitting screwdriver just turned without getting traction, and chewed up the screwhead (I had to replace several screws when I reassembled it)

You can never have enough good quality screwdrivers, to get the ideal fit in any slot - that way you don't damage the screws, or scratch the woodwork when an ill-fitting screwdriver tip slips...

 

I dread to think how many I've got!

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You can never have enough good quality screwdrivers, to get the ideal fit in any slot - that way you don't damage the screws, or scratch the woodwork when an ill-fitting screwdriver tip slips...

 

I dread to think how many I've got!

 

I should use this opportunity to make a patriotic plug for a Canadian invention, the Robertson Head Screw and Screwdriver! (slightly tapered square end) This superior design virtually eliminates slipping, and is widely used in Canada, but never caught on outside our borders because the inventor originally wouldn't licence anyone else to produce them. Hence the rise of the vastly inferior (although perhaps more esthetically pleasing) Philips Head Screw.

 

A few years back my Dad had to courier a box of Robertson Head screwdrivers to a factory in the southern USA that had taken a large delivery of Canadian made equipment. They couldn't open the packing crates!

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I think I may well buy a new set of screws to replace the ones in my Jackie somepoint soon - they're very stiff and a few look like theyre getting rusty.

 

However - thanks again for the suggestion of getting a better fitting screwdriver :) this morning I went out to Shatin market and bought a better fitting one (with the help of my trusty Chinese dictionary) for $6 (about £0.50) - the guy at the shop just looked at the stuck screw, selected a screwdriver, and unscrewed it no trouble at all :).

 

The spring was warped and about to snap, so I've taped it shut so at least I can play the other notes without it sounding - is there any reason this would be a bad idea?

 

Next step, I guess, will be to order some springs as I don't suppose there are any concertina repairers based in HK...

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Next step, I guess, will be to order some springs as I don't suppose there are any concertina repairers based in HK...

Have you asked Wim Wakker how far you might be from the factory where they're built?

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Next step, I guess, will be to order some springs as I don't suppose there are any concertina repairers based in HK...

 

I suggest you contact Wim at Concertina Connection. Springs are very small and light and easy to send by post.

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Thanks for the suggestion - I have contacted Wim and ordered springs from CC :). I've also read the section in the concertina maintanence manual on replacing springs, and it sounds doable!

 

Edit: on the down side, however, I've now played her a bit and discovered that she's noticeably less airtight than before :( Hopefully that's just down to non-airtight sellotaping, rather than my having done something more seriously bad... Also, I hadn't realised that about 95% of the tunes and pieces I have music for include a high F# somewhere :angry:

Edited by tzirtzi

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Hi all :)

 

Could anyone advise me on what should my next step be?

 

Thanks,

tzirtzi

 

I had the same problem when opening my Rochelle. I found the choice of screwdriver was the key. A good quality Philip's head screwdriver with sharply defined edges on the "cross", and a precise fit to the screw did the trick. A sloppy fitting screwdriver just turned without getting traction, and chewed up the screwhead (I had to replace several screws when I reassembled it)

I also found that the Phillips screw heads on the Elise require very careful matching of screwdriver.

 

But another manufacturing oversight, that you shoudl correct the first time you have an end off, is this:

the holes thru the end, thru which the screws should slide freeely, are too small, so the screw threads catch on these holes. THe screws should catch only on the continuation of the holes in the body (bellows section).

 

I found that running a 1/8" drill bit thru the end holes made the screws slide more freely. That would be 3 mm or so.

 

This makes it much easier to replace the screws properly when reassembling.

--Mike K.

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That sounds like a very good idea - the holes were certainly a bit tight on mine. I'll do that with mine when I'm back in the UK with more tools...

Edited by tzirtzi

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But another manufacturing oversight, that you shoudl correct the first time you have an end off, is this:

the holes thru the end, thru which the screws should slide freeely, are too small, so the screw threads catch on these holes. THe screws should catch only on the continuation of the holes in the body (bellows section).

 

I found that running a 1/8" drill bit thru the end holes made the screws slide more freely. That would be 3 mm or so.

 

This makes it much easier to replace the screws properly when reassembling.

--Mike K.

Let me elaborate on what I mean. When re-insterting a wood screw into its hole, you should always start it by first turning the screw backwards, until it drops down into the threads. THis assures that it will go into the existing threads, and not cut new threads in the wood, which will weaken the grip and ultimately (after a fw more such removals and replacements) strip the hole.

 

If the hole in the end, thru which the screw passes to reach the threaded hole in the bellows section, is too tight, it grips the screw and you can't twist it backwards and feel when it drops into the threads. So you will end up wearing out(stripping) the htreadsd in the bellows section after a few iterations.

 

--Mike K.

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I received my new springs and successfully replaced the broken one today - only difficulty was getting the new spring into the hole left by the old one, which seemed to be too small. Nevertheless, the result works absolutely fine and the instrument is much more airtight again and so much more satisfying to play.

 

So thanks again to those who gave me advice :) I feel that I have taken a significant step as a concertina-player, having successfully completed my first repair on my own! (minor though the fault may have been).

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Just saying hello, mostly. Had a Rochelle now for about 18 months, slow to get started but getting better...

 

My bottom F# on the G row is a little slow to speak, but not toooo bad. My only real gripe is the air valve, which I've discovered is not as big as on other instruments and therefore hard work, and wheezy. Considering a mod to put a bigger valve on it.

 

The D on that row also ticks or clicks when I press it, annoying if I'm trying to practice quietly so as not to annoy the tellywatchers in the next room (and also not to advertise my c*ckups!).

 

I suppose the other gripe is that I bought it when the pound was at its lowest... They're eighty quid cheaper now :-(

 

Malcolm

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I have just acquired a Jack as a 'travel' concertina, but it has several keys that stick open. I removed the screws and took off the top to find that three keys were stuck open (just like the second posting!). I can't see any reason why they stick! I will try the graphite trick, has anyone contacted CC over this? If at least two Jack/Jackie have done this then it could be a design fault?

 

Chris

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