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Gold Tooling


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The best person to answer this question, in my humble opinion, is Bob Tedrow. He did the gold tooling on my B/F Anglo concertina featured on his website. He is also doing the gold tooling on a brand new South Africa Wifra concertina for me.

 

I believe that one has to have a stamp made with a particular Celtic/Jeffries design. This stamp is heated and pressed on Gold leaf paper. Bob told me that you only get one chance at stamping the bellows.

 

If one can not get a hold of Bob then check out the following website TALAS.com. TALAS is a company in New York City that makes bookbinding products, stamps, decorative tools and designs as well as 22ct. goldleaf paper. Ask for Aaron Salik. You have to provide a piece of leather material with the desired design on it to Talas who would provide the tool for you. TALAS can design this stamp to your required measurements too. The stamp will cost you close to $400.00 and the goldleaf paper is extra. TALAS has an office in the UK too.

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Well I've never done it but you could start here - Gold Tooling

 

As for the stamp, in the UK there is this company Le Provo

which for a minimum charge of about £35 will make an embossing plate 20 ins square!

 

Le Prevos embossing tools are not designed for the sort of tooling concertinas have. This is a better place to look for the tools... http://www.hewit.com/

 

The price for a bellows sized pallet would be several hundred pounds. If you want instruction look for book binders restoration courses.

 

Chris

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Well I've never done it but you could start here - Gold Tooling

 

As for the stamp, in the UK there is this company Le Provo

which for a minimum charge of about £35 will make an embossing plate 20 ins square!

 

Le Prevos embossing tools are not designed for the sort of tooling concertinas have. This is a better place to look for the tools... http://www.hewit.com/

 

The price for a bellows sized pallet would be several hundred pounds. If you want instruction look for book binders restoration courses.

 

Chris

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Well lets try aagain!

Gold Blocking is more witch craft than skill, more black magic than art.

At its basic it is easy .A simple machine ,hand operated, canbe had for a couple of hundred pounds, the dies preferably of hard brass although zincos are ok for short runs and good tooling grade aluminium is fine, we have done over 100,000 prints with ally dies and they are still good .

The die is heated to around150C and pressure appplied. Hey presto youve got a print.

If you want some done get David Leese to do it as he has a range of Classic Tina designs for bellows and Thumb straps( Yes it is high time I sorted the Hand Strap Dies out) I hope that this helps,contact me if you need any more help.

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Well lets try aagain!

Gold Blocking is more witch craft than skill, more black magic than art.

At its basic it is easy .A simple machine ,hand operated, canbe had for a couple of hundred pounds, the dies preferably of hard brass although zincos are ok for short runs and good tooling grade aluminium is fine, we have done over 100,000 prints with ally dies and they are still good .

The die is heated to around150C and pressure appplied. Hey presto youve got a print.

 

 

Nil desperandam. At this point the old boys in the Morgan three wheeler car club (factory spares ran out 50 years ago) would just be getting going. From your pic you're a hands-on type; you're not interested in production line efficiency and you can afford to throw some leather away.

 

Instant suggestion, first off the top of my head and I'm sure it will be improved on. Find a block of brass thick enough not to distort (engineering shop for that) then seek out a pleasing bit of brass fretwork, I'd look at old furniture in the local charity shop, Handbags (and I'd buy a couple of them for experimental leather to save the good stuff while I was there), the local hardware shop, or even consider fretting something out. Solder it to your block (what does solder melt at? More than 150 degrees I hope; if not you might have to silver solder) and polish the face of it. You've got your die.

 

Domestic oven at 160 to heat it, or there might be simpler tricks; ordinary soap rubbed on the back of alloy sheet that is being annealed goes black when annealing temp is reached and I bet that's somewhere about there; rub soap on the back of the block and use a blowlamp if it is. (off to the internet to check that one)

 

To cramp it use your vice, get your components set up with square edges and bottom so that you can slap 'em quickly together accurately, drop it straight in, bang in a halving wedge and then half a turn on the handle to really wind up the pressure. Still not enough? A car jack in a solid wooden frame of 4by2 and coachbolts.

 

Then you go to work leaving it to cool. In the evening you do another one. After the first few it won't take long. I did a dry-point etching Xmas card, no heat involved but the press technique worked as described.

 

If you had 2 designs you could use both sides of your block for each heating, nearly halving the time involved, given that the heating and cooling are the slow bits.

 

Actually , mentioning etching, I'd look at acid etching your block direct. I'm sure the Morgan boys make bonnet badges like this and they get a relief of perhaps 1/16" I might be able to find a recipe for that if you want.

 

What do you think Nic? Will it fly, do you think?

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Many years ago I did some hand tooling on a linnen covered book and the same tools can be used for leather. I just needed to use a few simple shapes to build up a more complicated design. The tools were individual shapes in brass on the end of wooden handles and were heated on an electric cooker style ring which had a support ring round the outside so that all the tools that you needed to use could be arranged round it with the business end on the ring.

The design was drawn out on paper and secured over the book with gold leaf underneath the paper and the hot tools used to emboss the design.

What I can't remember is whether the book was treated with anything first to make the gold leaf stick to the linnen. I can find that out when I've located my book about bookbinding!

 

Robin Madge

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There is a fair chance that it may fly subject to certain provisos

1) That the facility be sited adjacent to the Gloucester Old Spot Airport, alongside the Feline Disposal Unit fully equiped with Boxing Glove and Cream Whipping equipment.

2) That you are quite happy to squander valuable Tina playing time on such futile activity.

It is quite good to have a little fun occasionally I just hope that a certain D..K T.....R is not reading this and gets the wwrong end of the stick

Talking of sticks a certain Festival Organiser was telling me that he had arranged some IRISH sessions for the Morris Musicians. He didnt seem to understand the problem.

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Does any one, in the UK, U.S.A. or elsewere know where I can find 22 carat gold leaf foil for the hot stamping process (gold tooling). TALAS www.talasonline.com (U.S.A.) advises me that their supplier of gold leaf/foil has gone permanently out of business. The Canadian counterpart here in Ontario advises me that the same thing happened to their supplier.

 

Any info will be appreciated.

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You could try

P B E in the U K

Contact FOZIA

Phone 01753 536536

Fax 01753 876444

Dont forget the time difference and adthe international diallling code

As Fozia says we hav not sold it for years and years but we do still have some stock but it aint cheap

Hope that this he;ps

On the cost of blocking dies thy cost around £125 for a bellows or strap die in brass or aluminium .

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