Edward Jay's to-be Beaumont successor discussion

[robertovich]

3 hours ago, Don Taylor said:

My Beaumont has 1/4" buttons with slightly radiused edges and flat tops.

 

I would not want anything smaller, certainly not 1/8" diameter buttons.

Agree,  1/8" are too small and my mistake.  I meant 1/4" for sure.  Thanks for remarking on the error.  

[Don Taylor]

22 hours ago, robertovich said:

 

I would also like to express my interest in a "successor to the Beaumont" discussion.  I have owned a Beaumont Hayden  for about 5 years and considered myself--rightly or wrongly--an "advanced intermediate" player (on a good day) or midlin' intermediate on a so-so day!  Back when the Beaumont was being developed,  I was studying intensely on how to improve on the standard 46,  and working with some others like Mike Knudsen (RIP),  and Jim Albea,  plus a few more.  We went over dozens of button board layouts--given the reed type,  and box dimensions, etc.  So,  to Lukasc M.  and Ed J, and others interested, I I would put in my two cents worth.  

  Essentially,  this amounts to the following which I have concluded would make an excellent box  (first row begins with B flat):      1) Hex and  7" across the flats like the Beaumont.  2)  55-57 buttons  (including linkages if necessary.  3) This come to (ideally), 26 on LHS with the Ab (3rd. row up), D# (2nd. row up)  and C# (4th row up.  On RHS the Ab 3rd. row up,  the E (5th. row up).   The  lonely C# below the first row (RHS) is a friendly option which makes it 57 total.   4) Palm bar to be  perindicular to the "lap flat")  and parallel to the button rows.  I have experimented with both slant and parallel bars--I rigged a moveable/adjustable bar on my Stagi to do this before getting the Beaumont.  Conclusion:  Once used to one or the other,  not any significant difference--the hand adjusts.  For me,  the middle and index fingers alternated a little better between and 1 note and 4 note   with the slant bar,  and the short pinky finger reaches  are  significantly  better with the parallel bar.  Take your pick.  5) delrin buttons at 1/8" diameter with slightly radiused edges and flat tops.  Delrin is great but a bit slippery for me if tops are domed.  6)  7 leather bellows,  and leather palm strap with thumb cutout on bar.  

  That's it.  Comments welcome.  
::: 

I would add that the air button should not be embedded in the RHS palm rest but should be a separate button as it is on most concertinas.  Not because it is difficult to use but because it makes it almost impossible to fashion your own palm rest to suit your own hand size or ergonomic needs.  It also makes it tricky to replace the RHS end if you have removed it to service the concertina.  I can't imagine why the BB thought this was a good idea.

[robertovich]

40 minutes ago, Don Taylor said:

I would add that the air button should not be embedded in the RHS palm rest but should be a separate button as it is on most concertinas.  Not because it is difficult to use but because it makes it almost impossible to fashion your own palm rest to suit your own hand size or ergonomic needs.  It also makes it tricky to replace the RHS end if you have removed it to service the concertina.  I can't imagine why the BB thought this was a good idea.

 

[robertovich]

1 hour ago, Don Taylor said:

I would add that the air button should not be embedded in the RHS palm rest but should be a separate button as it is on most concertinas.  Not because it is difficult to use but because it makes it almost impossible to fashion your own palm rest to suit your own hand size or ergonomic needs.  It also makes it tricky to replace the RHS end if you have removed it to service the concertina.  I can't imagine why the BB thought this was a good idea.

Good points,  Don,  although I have become used to the in-bar  air button on the Beaumont and like it.  I took the bar off 2 or 3 times and had no trouble with the air button being in  there,  but as you say,  not so good if you want to customize the bar to  your preference.  Glad you brought it up.  

[David Barnert]

2 hours ago, Don Taylor said:

I would add that the air button should not be embedded in the RHS palm rest ... because it makes it almost impossible to fashion your own palm rest to suit your own hand size or ergonomic needs.

 

Are the palm rests on Mr. Jay’s concertinas separate pieces, or are they 3-D printed continuous with the end surface?

 

2 hours ago, Don Taylor said:

I can't imagine why the BB thought this was a good idea.

 

FWIW, my Dickinson/Wheatstone 46-key Hayden has the same set-up.

Edited March 21 by David Barnert
Formatting

[Don Taylor]

10 minutes ago, David Barnert said:

FWIW, my Dickinson/Wheatstone 46-key Hayden has the same set-up.

I suspected that was where the idea came from.

[seanc]

Might I offer a suggestion?

it seems like end bolts are a consistent cause of issues. 
 

it would be great if these could be replaced. Maybe with holes through the end plates through the bellows. And then some sort threaded ferrules with knurled thumb screws mounted on the bellows side.  Or possibly the same idea with some sort of quick release twist lock.

 

the idea is that there are no threads inside the ends to get fouled up. On the ends there are no screw heads that could have been buggered and sharp, scratching hands. No trying to remember which screw actually works in which hole. Also, the whole assembly, ferrule and thumb screw can be easily and entirely replaced. 
 

As a bonus. Where the ends on the face a blank and flat, and replaceable. Different colors could be made to match, contrast or colorize.