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Slow Reed On Push - Something I Can Fix Myself?


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On my 30 button C/G anglo (a Lachenal), I've noticed one reed is very slow to sound on the push (I usually have to remember to push extra hard to get it to sound when playing it in a tune), and if I push very gently, it just sounds like air leaking until I increase the pressure.

 

The pull note on the same button is fine. It's the 3rd button on the left-hand G row (B push, C pull) if that makes any difference.

 

Is this likely to be something I can fix myself? I've yet to open up my concertina, and am slightly scared of doing so...

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I'd guess it's the valve... (which you could easily fix (or replace) yourself).

Either that or air leaking around the reed shoe that is not firmly enough wedged into its dovetail joint.

 

If you're comfortable taking the end off and removing the reed board, find the offending reed (push notes are on the side of the reed board that faces into the bellows) and press it firmly into place. Sometimes it's necessary to add a little paper shim along the edge of the reed shoe (newspaper or cigarette paper).

 

Before putting my concertina back together, I usually go around the whole reed board and press all of the reeds in with my thumb, in case one is undetectably starting the same process.

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Not likely to be the valve and if it was a loose shoe it would likely rattle when it did play. My first thought would be the reed is sitting too high at rest. Dave Elliot's book would hold your hand through the relatively easy process of adjusting it.

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Thanks for suggestions so far, I guess it can't hurt to open it up and look for anything obvious too.

 

I hadn't come across Dave Elliot's book before though, sounds like that's well worth a read anyway!

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Just had another listen, and it's a tiny bit buzzy on the push too, if that helps diagnose it any more. Either way, I'll take a look inside over the weekend when I get some time spare.

Occasionally the side of a reed frame can be crimped in slightly causing the reed to buzz.

This can happen if there is a little debris in the slot.

Remove the reed, check the reed slot sides for debris, if present, carefully remove with the end of a cocktail stick (use a cocktail stick to minimise damage to the reed slot).

Another way is the shim the heel end (where the clamp is) with some thin paper (cigarette papers are good for this) - don't shim along the length of the reed because this can cause the reed to start buzzing.

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Lxnx,

 

slow to start usually means that the air flow is not being utilised to it's fullest. If the valves are stiff and the valve at the side of the reed at question is not closing properly, or the valve on the opposite face of the reed-pan is stiff and not opening fully, or is say catching on a chamber wall then the reed will be stifled or muted as well as slow. Often you get this after re-valving if the valve glue has caught under the valve where it should not be.

 

If the reed tip gap (set) is too great then too much air (and pressure) is required to catch the reed tongue and push it into the reed frame vent and cause the reed to start its vibration cycle.It will be slow to start, and breathy. The same can result from lower grade reeds where the clearance around the reed tongue can be uneven and excessive. This can also cause odd harmonic buzz effects.

 

Loose reeds usually cause a rumbly - burbly sound rather than a harsh rattle, however most people do think of it being a rattle, as distinct to a valve effect.

 

I think the book is good too, but I am biased

 

Dave E

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