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Peter Smith

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Everything posted by Peter Smith

  1. 24 Button Anglo concertina sold and an appropriate donation made to concertina.net. Peter
  2. I have a clean steel-reeded 24 button Lachenal Anglo in good condition, in C/G & tuned to concert pitch. I would be looking for around £400 for it. It has the following accidentals (C#, D#, F#, G# & A#), which would mean you can play tunes in the keys of C, G, D & A. I'm happy playing Irish tunes on it though haven't ventured beyond the keys of C, G & D. If you might be interested, I can send further details & pictures. Regards Peter
  3. I have refurbished fie or six 'black' concertina boxes. The materials I have used and things learned are listed below. To clean off the old coverings inside & outside the box, I usually use an electric palm sander - much quicker & easier than scraping & sanding by hand. I would check the box for any splits between the wooden sides & glue them using wood glue (& a woodworking band clamp to hold it all together). For the outside of the box, I have used a material like Skivertex book binding paper (I have bought some off E-bay recently but previously obtained it from Concertina Spares). I will be trying Buckram book cloth on my next box to give a different finish. I have used PVA glue to attach it but any indentations on the woodwork do show through. Internally, I have used non-stretch velvet, again held in using PVA (or Trimits Fabric Glue). One cautionary note from Alex Holden, is that PVA glue contains acetic acid (vinegar). He noted that the acetic acid can cause the metal finish on a ended concertina to tarnish. I tend to leave the box open for a few days for the acetic acid to evaporate. The velvet is 1-2mm thick and will reduce the internal size of the box slightly, so if the concertina is tight fitting before, it may not go into a box lined with velvet. For the strap, I use black leather belt strip matching the width of the slots in the lid (Trademcrafts on E-bay). I make sure the ends meet inside the lid & glue them firmly inside using wood or PVA glue. Hope this is some help and would be happy to answer any questions. Regards Peter
  4. That's great news. I have a Jeffries duet but guess I'm a 'wannabe'. Guidance / suggestions on fingering would be very useful, as the layout feels a bit random at times, though I guess its not! Look forward to the finished work. Thanks Peter
  5. Having recently bought a 48-button Crane, I am looking to sell my 35 button Crabb Crane. It covers the usual range from C3 to G5 (though the button that should be C3sharp if actually B2flat). I bought it from Chris Algar 8 years ago and it has been serviced by Dave Elliott. The instrument has steel reeds, is tuned to concert pitch & the tone is quite mellow.. It has aluminium action arms riveted onto brass posts (three of the arms have been replaced - see photos). The valves & pads are in reasonable condition and the bellows are airtight (several corners of the bellows have been patched). The concertina comes with a serviceable old Wheatstone box. Please see the pictures below. I think this is a rare concertina, as I have not seen its’ like in the last decade. I am not certain how much it is worth but was advised to insure it for £1000, so I am selling for £750 + postage. I am also open to offers. If you are interested and want to find out more, please send me a PM. Thanks Peter
  6. I watched this on E-bay and also thought it looked like a Tidder. I bought a 20 button Anglo recently which I am pretty sure is a Tidder. Things I found different to a L:achenal were as follows: solid mahogany ends, buttons with thinner ends than Lachenal, screws holding reeds in shoe bigger than Lachenal, bellows 'recessed' (perhaps 0.5cm in from ends). On mine the lever arms are held in place by a metal plate screwed into the action board. Hope this helps. Regards Peter
  7. Thanks. I have a friend with a Wheatstone Crane with the curved layout, so maybe I will give that a try. On my Crane, the middle button at the bottom is a B and the outlier on the right is a B flat - both just under middle C. The other button on the right is the air button. Regards Peter
  8. Looks really good. I assume it’s a 55 button Crane. Could you comment or send me an end on photo? From the photo, it looks like the curved arrangement of buttons, rather than the chevron layout I am seeking. Thanks Peter
  9. I am looking for a Crane concertina with a chevron layout of the buttons – rather than the curved Butterworth set up. I have a large Crabb Crane with 67 buttons with the chevron layout (see picture) but it’s not very portable due to its size. I am looking to buy a second, smaller Crane with the same layout with between 42 & 55 buttons. My preference would be for a Crabb (or Wheatstone, if they ever made them) but would be interested to see what is available. If you have such a Crane that you are looking to sell, please get in touch. My preference would be to buy from the UK but I'm open to purchasing from abroad. Peter
  10. To be honest, I am not sure as I hhave never used it I guess it could be used for larger reeds.
  11. There are two brass the plates - measuring 75mm x 25 mm. The laser cut slots in the top plate give some 'springiness'. With the smallest & largest reeds I use a finger to cover any gaps - perhaps not idea but it seems to work (though I'm not an expert!!).
  12. The air hole under in the metal plate is 23mm x 3 mm. Mark at Concertina Spares said the plate is laser cut. Maybe he would sell you just the plate.
  13. The tuning bellows I use are shown below. There is a lead weight in the bottom of the bellows which makes life easier! The only addition I might make is an additional reed slot for comparing reeds from an English or Duet. I hope the photos come out OK. Peter
  14. You could ask Concertina Spares in the UK. I bought a good tuning rig from him. Peter
  15. I would think the problem with the reed sounding is to do with position of the reed tongue with respect to the frame. I would suggest having a look at Dave Elliott's book on concertina repairs where he talks about this. What he says worked for me. Peter
  16. It looks like a good rosewood ended 26 button anglo concertina. What sort of information are you after?
  17. I also enquired and the seller said the buttons were bisonoric, so I assume it’s a very large Anglo. I’ve not found anything about an Anglo like this on the internet.
  18. Ask Mark at Concertina Spares about the outside covering. He supplied a strong paper-type material which I used to restore a few Lachenal cases. I used a good velvet fabric to line the inside.
  19. Many thanks for your comments. The chord problems make a lot of sense and could explain why the Double Duet didn’t take off. Maybe Wheatstone was looking for the concertina to be played in a different way. Peter
  20. Thanks. Looks impressive (& expensive!!). I have not come across the Stark layout before but as other posts say, it is essentially the double duet on its side. Playing a Crane at the moment, I think I would prefer the vertical layout. Regards Peter
  21. I am also interested in the Wheatstone Double Duet layout and had a think about converting an English but as Alex says, it just would not work. So I am keeping an eye out to see if one turns up - however unlikely that is! Peter
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