Pad Attachment

[Anglo-Irishman]

Folks,

 

The most persistent bug in my Stagi is the air valve. The hole's too small, and the geometry of the action is all wrong (works for the reed pads, but not for the air pad). So I've decided to install my own action for it, based on an example that used to be on Bob Tedrow's homepage.

 

I've got most of it worked out, but I'm wondering about attaching the pad to the end of the lever. The original Stagi method looks like a blob of Araldite in the middle of the pad with the end of the lever just embedded in it.

 

So I'm thinking of installing the post, the lever with pivot, the spring and the button, aligning everything, and then just centring the pad over the hole, with a dollop of the said Araldite (or other epoxy glue) on top of it, and letting the spring sink the end of the lever into the glue, and just leaving it to set.

 

I reckon this should align the pad so that it sits flat over the hole - or am I overlooking something?

 

And by the way, what diameter is the air hole on a "decent" anglo?

 

Any advice welcome!

 

Cheers,

John

[Theo]

So I'm thinking of installing the post, the lever with pivot, the spring and the button, aligning everything, and then just centring the pad over the hole, with a dollop of the said Araldite (or other epoxy glue) on top of it, and letting the spring sink the end of the lever into the glue, and just leaving it to set.

 

I reckon this should align the pad so that it sits flat over the hole - or am I overlooking something?

 

And by the way, what diameter is the air hole on a "decent" anglo?

 

Instead of Araldite you could use hot-melt glue which will be easier to remove than araldite if you have to think up a plan B.

 

Even basic Lachenals have an air hole of getting on for am inch in diameter.

[Alan Day]

I have always used Evostick (impact adhesive) for pads.It is flexible unlike Araldite.It will position itself in the correct position even if you put it on crooked due to the weight of the spring.It is not brittle so will not eventually break, usually in the middle of a gig. It is a glue I have always used successfully for most concertina repairs. Left overnight to harden on the inside of bellows it will repair small air leaks as a temporary measure. A tiny amount of talcum powder rubbed over the adhesive will take any adhesive qualities away if you are concerned. If you hold up your hands in horror,investigate the manufacture of Bagpipe bellows which are sealed in a more drastic manner. A member of my old Morris side used no end of the stuff in his bellows,which was a Jeffries.

Al