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Anglo E/F key: annoying click

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Hainsworth "Doeskin", 100% Merino Wool material as used in Guards tunics is a traditional option, I think.  Being inexpert, I sourced some of the piano material and real wool baize, but found it too thick to 'roll' into a cord to thread the buttons onto, or, to work properly once on the lever. 

I have found the Doeskin just right for all bushing options.  

Edited by Sprunghub
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Break out the champagne -- I got rid of the click!  It's not elegant, but it worked.


It looks like someone replaced all the springs at some point, and made new holes for the L ends to fit into. The hole in the pad board for the E/F is too wide, so the spring was moving around. I straightened the long part of the spring (that lies on top of the pad board) and tested it, but it still wiggled around. When I held the spring in place with a screwdriver the key worked smoothly, so I used some 24 gauge copper wire to bind it snug against the post (correct word?), fixed a couple more bushings, and Voila! It might get loose again after some play, but now I know what's up.


Dave Elliot -- your book arrived today and it is already quite useful. Very clearly written -- thanks!


And thanks to everyone for suggestions and information. This is a really nice community.




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you might not try a blob of solder, sorry Wolf. You need to be able to remove springs easily and the heat may not do the spring's springiness any good either. If you don't fancy re-shaping the spring a bit and creating a fresh action plate anchor hole, or simply plugging a an existing pad board hole then a strand of very fine copper wire to restrain the spring is not an unheard of solution. 


Brass annealing temperature is around 400 C, or more for a faster anneal. However the annealing effect can start lower. a Soldering iron tip is  can be 200-350 C some times more. The section of the brass spring is very low compared with the brass of the pivot post.... Its easier to make the hole on the action plate good and/or fit a new spring.



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