New Valves - leather or plastic?

[malcolmbebb]

Just bought a cheap concertina on Ebay, more to play with than play on. The valves are obviously shot, for starters. The reeds are accordion style and the valves leather.

 

Assuming that I get as far as replacing the valves, how much work is involved in replacing with leather? And where would I get it? Dave Leese doesn't (obviously) offer it, unless I missed it.

 

Is leather really such a silly idea that plastic is a no-brainer?

 

(Theo's comment elsewhere about buying the book noted, BTW)

[Lester Bailey]

As it is a cheapy accordion reeded boxI would use vinyl valves easiest sourced from Charlie Marshall

 

http://www.cgmmusical.co.uk/CGM_Musical_Services/Reed_Valves.html

[malcolmbebb]

As it is a cheapy accordion reeded boxI would use vinyl valves easiest sourced from Charlie Marshall

 

http://www.cgmmusical.co.uk/CGM_Musical_Services/Reed_Valves.html

Thanks Lester.

On a quick glance, he offers pre-cut leather valves (thought I'd need to cut them from a sheet or something).

 

Any thoughts on likely extent of tuning change if I fit plastic?

 

I need to re-fit some valves on my 1140 so maybe I can have a sticky Christmas!

[Theo]

 

Any thoughts on likely extent of tuning change if I fit plastic?

 

From your description of the state of the concertina its unlikely to be in tune to start with, so you should expect to have tuning to do irrespective of which valves you use.

 

Plastic valves tend to be noisy, especially on the lowest reeds, so I would recommend leather at least on the lowest octave.

[Guest HallelujahAl!]

I recently restored an accordion-reeded concertina and used accordion valves from Charlie Marshall - no probs - even in the lower notes. For the lower notes you could always cut your own leather reeds if necessary though Charlie will I'm sure have something suitable for you if needs be.

AL

[malcolmbebb]

Maybe a silly question - but having looked at a few leather valves on accordion plates lately, they are fitted with the smooth side out.

To my mind, that would encourage them to curl, whereas smooth side in would try to curl against the plate which would tend to hold it straight.

It's not obvious that rough side offers an obviously better seal.

 

So is there a reason or am I just being blindingly daft?

[Frank Edgley]

The plastic ones seal satisfactorily, but, in my experience don't sound as good. There seems to be a brief moment when closing that there is a sound on the "attack" of the note that is not present with leather valves. This is noticeable and detracts from the sound. This would only be a factor when changing direction on the same button, but on an anglo...

[malcolmbebb]

Having looked at some leather valves - actually a different but similar accordion reeded box - the valves have been cut only marginally longer than the reed slot. This means the glue is mostly on the sides.

As a temporary measure I have reversed a number of them (smooth side in) until I get replacements from Charlie. Noticeable difference in sound, amplitude and air efficiency.

 

Two questions:

1) What length do I need to fit? I would guess butt to the rivet at the top, should I have some overlap at the bottom or aim to be as tight as possible to the end of the slot? (Does it matter?)

 

2) I'm using EvoStik contact adhesive - it's OK but seems reluctant to wet the zinc plates, and not easy to do a neat job. Somebody suggested an alternative somewhere but I can't find the post - any suggestions for a nicer glue?