Michael Eskin Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 My 1860s vintage Lachenal Bb/F is developing an push/pull valve flap transition issue on the the C-row G/B on the left side: http://www.tradlessons.com/lachenal_valve.mp3 Not sure how best to remedy this. Any recommendations for online resources for how to best go about replacing/reconditioning the valves for this note? The instrument was restored by Dipper, otherwise its playing extremely well. I've done reed tuning, comfortable opening instruments, but never had to deal with valve flaps, but don't want to ship the instrument for repair if this is something I can easily take care of myself since its just one valve pair. Cheers and thanks for any suggestions, Michael lachenal_valve.mp3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HallelujahAl! Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Hi Michael - two thoughts occur to me listening to the soundfile you posted. Firstly, it may not actually be a valve issue. It sounds to me like the reed shoe may actully just be a little loose within the reed-pan. This is easily fixed by taking the reed shoe out of the reed-pan and pasting in a thin sliver of paper between the shoe and the side of the reedframe. This will stop the reed rattling around within the frame and can easily be an easy resolution to the problem. Secondly, if it is a valve issue - then replacing valves is really dead easy. Again, removing the reedpan is no problem and then taking the valve off and gluing a new valve back into place is a cinch! David Leese Concertina Supplies will furnish you with an appropriately sized valve. Hope this helps! AL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirge Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 I can second that changing valves is not something to be scared of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Eskin Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 Thank you for the suggestions! I'll open it up this weekend and see what's up... Is there a preferred method for gluing new valves, i.e. hot glue gun, or recommended adhesive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirge Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 i.e. hot glue gun, or recommended adhesive? God no! the old white PVA does fine, Mike Acott uses old fashioned gum arabic for this I think; it scrapes off easily when you come to redo it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 i.e. hot glue gun, or recommended adhesive? God no! the old white PVA does fine, Mike Acott uses old fashioned gum arabic for this I think; it scrapes off easily when you come to redo it. Gum arabic is the best. You can get a version of it ready to use from Staples don't try to apply it with the tube, use a cocktail stick/toothpick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Coles Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Gum arabic is the best. You can get a version of it ready to use from Staples don't try to apply it with the tube, use a cocktail stick/toothpick. The very same glue I used to attach bellows papers. Worked very well, a few seconds' open time allowed some repositioning. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marien Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Just a hint if you are going to replace valves. I am not sure if you are going to do so, but if you do, take care to select the proper leather with similar flexibility and weight. In one of my tinas somebody once glued valves of a "wrong" leather in the reed pan, for the high reeds. These valves were too stiff. The result is that if I played a chord, these high notes were quiet while the other notes were relatively loud (the valves for the high note did not open)!! Also I had to pull quite strongly to get a sound for a solo high note. The only thing that helped was to replace valves with the proper leather Marien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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