Bob Tedrow

follow up for those who are interested, the buttons follow a Mccaan system, although the Bb and Eb keys are stepped aside to form their own row. From Gaskins site I see that Eb keys on the RH side are typically appear in adjacent rows. perhaps this "oddification" (hmm, I have coined a new word here) was performed to allow octave doubles remain in the same vertical row as do the octave notes in the remainder of the Mccaan system. Bob Tedrow

Serial #31176 1920's? It is a Wheatstone. Has the original sales ticket.

http://hmi.homewood.net/duet/003.jpg http://hmi.homewood.net/duet/006.jpg here are a couple more shots of this interesting duet

Has anyone seen Duet buttons spaced like this? http://hmi.homewood.net/duet/008.jpg

I have the letters, but it's been a dozen years since I've had anything I could call a shop. I have hopes that the situation is changing, but I don't expect to try my hand at making my own concertinas for at least a year. Don't think it would be right to put up the letters before then. Hmm. Re-reading what Bob said makes me wonder whether I could stay young by not putting up the letters. Maybe the letters will grow spotty and wrinkled instead of me if I keep them hidden away? That applies only to letters of Dorian Gray Bob

Yer not an oldtimer unless you have a couple of Stinson's handtyped letters pinned to your shop wall. Bob

Strikes me it was merely "concertina" Bob

In transit now. http://hmi.homewood.net/rochelle Call or email now if you would like one of the few that are as yet unsold. Bob Tedrow 205 879-4868 hmi@scott.net

Thanks..........I hope to never do it again. Bob

Here is an upgrade that has lasted a number of years. I installed this action in a Stagi w-15 in 1999

That is an arrangement of Bertram Levy...the New Rigged Ship. I obsessed over it for several months several years ago. He plays in in D on a C/G concertina....I had to rearrange it for my d/a concertina, but it sounds close to the version in this book Concertina Demystified.

Hello neighbors. I will be in Nashville, TN every monday night from 6:45 to 9:30 for a darn good while. My precious little Irish Dancing Daughter is now enrolled in the Nashville Irish Step Dancers. If you would like to have a cup o' Joe with me or play some tunes, I will probably be hanging out at the lounge behind the Gibson Showcase at the Opry Mills Mall. They have a Bluegrass jam session going on Monday nights at the lounge., Looks like I will be warming up my Ragtime Annie on the concertina. Heck, I might even bring my b*nj* Bob Tedrow

I'll be there again. See you soon. Bob

835 Euros for a 38 key = 11 euros a reed, £7.37. I suspect you'll pay that much or more for hand made accordian reeds in one off quantities. I'm here to tell you boys.... If Jurgen can deliver a good traditional reed frame with good reed tuned within +or - 20 cents for 15 or 20 dollars, you should jump on it like a chicken on a june-bug. It takes me a real good HARD working hour to hand cut a brass reedframe, vent it properly, tap the holes for the screws, cut a steel reed, profile it to pitch, install it in the reedframe, and fine tune it. Bob Tedrow

Not much room in my little shop, here are some items in need of a good home. http://hmi.homewood.net/available list Bob Tedrow

You can still buy a new fretsaw. I suspect that this is the same article that Bob calls a jewellers saw. Mine looks much like this: http://www.axminster.co.uk/pricing/INC/rec...Saws-479849.htm

Purchase a "jewellers saw" and some .020 wide 18 tooth per inch Scroll saw blades. Coping saws and Hacksaws are for much rougher work. Bob

After the bellows are cut, the ends are brought around and the assembly is dropped into the 1/8" rabbet cut into the bellows frame. The assembly is secured by glueing its attached lined to the bellows frames. Then rubber bands are stretched around and dropped into the valleys. The rubber bands help the bellows behave for the next step. Next the hide glued bias cut linen is put on the outside folds. I hope that is the answer you are looking for Bob

I have had a couple good questions about properties of various glues. I though I would answer them here instead of replying individually. MY MOST HUMBLE OPINION, based only on my personal observations, I offer this. Hide Glue VS PVA I have found hide glue to be marvelously flexible, in spite of its spectacular hardness, when compared to a surface glued with a polymer adhesive. Hide glue dries so hard that when it is flexed it breaks into hundreds of tiny glue fragments and provides excellent flexibility at that point while still providing excellent adhesive properties. Contrast this to a polymer based adhesive, which dries to a gooey hard tough mass that is forever stiff and sluggish.....and unflexible. The bias strips of cotton that I glue with hot hide glue to the external fold of the concertina bellows provide the strength and flexibility of the bellows. The thin layer of PVA I use on the leather is there to hold the leather in place and provide an airtight surface. It does take some fancy footwork to use hot hide glue as their exisits only a modest window of workablilty before the glue "gels" and looses its stickness. Bob

Hello Chris, There is a picture missing of me applying a black dye to the sheepskin skiver. I dye it after the gussets are glued in, I don't want the dye to affect the glue joint there. I use a Feibings Black leather dye, I have used the same black as I use for black lacquering as well. Bob

I have a new box of Rochelle Anglo Concertinas in the shop. Please spread the word. Bob http://hmi.homewood.net

Like this? http://hmi.homewood.net/bellows/IMG_6530.JPG o Jeepers Leo, I wish you had summoned a more flattering picture of me. Bob

If you can find them there are about 100 more images on my server that did not make the cut. They are at http://hmi.homewood.net/bellows but you will have to figure out how to get to them. Wish I could help.

please do so Henrik, with my compliments.

Oh, there are jigs involved, you'll see. Bob