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David Lay

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Everything posted by David Lay

  1. Should be OK for a good length of time. It's not like polystyrene or polyisocyanurate plastic foams. It's also relatively inert with no leaching solvents or evaporating plasticizers.
  2. If I only had 5mm panels, I would expect to laminate pieces together to get the thickness needed for some components. Walnut is quite dense, which will affect how you attach lever posts and otherwise detail the project. I wonder, though, how using only a dense hardwood will affect the sound.
  3. Has anyone got an active link to share for Sandylaneman?
  4. This is what I used but at 1/8" (3mm) nominal thickness. The 1/8" material appears to be unavailable from this seller. I had another's product run out and switched makers to find that the definition of what you get as neoprene varies. I have had best success with the kind that is more firm than "squishy". ("Foam" vs. "sponge" in the Amazon descriptions, perhaps??) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WVQF1DF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I put the sticky side of the neoprene to the velvet because it can be tricky controlling the amount of spray adhesive applied. If you use too much, it soaks through ruining the facing. The peel-and-stick surface is better for this, so I use spray adhesive to bond the wrapped edges. Note that in my experience, rubber adhesives eventually weaken; however, my oldest case is 4 years old and still good.
  5. I have used velvet fabric laminated to 1/8" neoprene peel-and-stick sheets. The velvet is all synthetic - probably polyester. I have been using spray-glue to hold folded-over edges and then hot glue to hold the pieces in place. Corner blocks are wood with neoprene on the sides that contact the instrument. I like Alex's suede choice - should last forever!
  6. Shoe polish for the discoloration! (I use a soft polyester buffing towel on my knee. I simply thought it would be a good idea. They are sold in automobile part stores/ departments.)
  7. ?? I understand the third C#''. --Still not sure a third D' is an enhancement. I think I would appreciate a D an octave lower in place of the deleted F. An F# an octave lower would also be interesting to try.
  8. Morse has stopped making instruments just this year. AC Norman: http://www.acnorman.co.uk/
  9. Here is Bob Tedrow's short lesson. https://www.facebook.com/Robert.Earl.Tedrow/videos/592850942546296/?idorvanity=2240273277
  10. Different makers take different approaches, of course. The Button Box let me know that they had others make their end grilles. Other components like bellows might also be contracted to others. Reeds are more often purchased from a factory to keep the amount of hand-work down. If a maker works at it, making or having others make each component in batches, then the time required is really one of component assembly. (Just like Eli Whitney's muskets!) You can generally tell by the price, the wait time, and by how much customization is offered which makers do all the work in-house.
  11. I sought a lower tuned instrument a few years back. Used would be a great find; maybe you will still find one. New seemed more likely to be successful to me. I found only two makers with endurable wait lists. Morse has recently stopped production on their minus-1 octave C/G "baritone", however. (It is confusing to me what defines a tenor, baritone or bass instrument. Maybe a tenor is a G/D?) The other maker was A.C. Norman. He makes a minus 1 octave C/G "baritone" and a minus-1 octave G/D "bass". (Minus 1-1/2 octaves from a typical C/G.)
  12. That would be 3.4%. I suspect the importer added some processing fees as UPS did for me to bring your total up from 2.7%. Mine had $40 added.
  13. The dollar is high and so advantageous for US buyers though it appears to be trending down from a few weeks ago.
  14. UPS does not put any effort into identifying the instrument classification and the duty. They will get it wrong without a care. Do your own research in advance and have the forms and your tax number submitted with the package. (Better to use another shipper.) Search for the "Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States". A piano accordion is free and just below that is listed "other" with a rate of 2.6%, however some trading partners are designated "free". The heading for "other" is 9205.90.18. The piano accordion is 9205.90.15. We have a free trade agreement with Canada for Canadian goods and UPS asked for a 5.3% duty from me without ever asking if it met any criterion for less.
  15. I have experienced the same on two modern (and therefore relatively new) concertinas and have been struggling to understand the reason/ find a solution. I have considered the ideas discussed here including air leaks, misbehaving valves, reed tongue position at rest, various reed chamber resonance theories, and reed design. So far, I very much like Alex Holden's note offering that designing a balanced reed is a refined skill (and so perhaps not a skill every maker has). Still, I must not conclude this to be the case with one instrument since the reeds were not hand-made (possibly Harmonikas). Any restoration/repair expert, please suggest what 3 things you would look for if an instrument came to you with slow-to-respond and muted right-hand reeds - for the sake of the question - all those above B5?
  16. You might have more success if you gave up a note closer to the C#5 you have. Do you use the D#5? Some do not play in the keys of E or Bb (gm, c#m, Eb, etc.), though you may occasionally find that you need it.
  17. Reed frames are most likely very different sizes. This would likely mean having to machine the reed pan to accept a larger one.
  18. Do the tongue thickness measurements imply that the tongue for each note had a different thickness before filing/tuning? I would expect that thickness "1" at the clamp would be the unfiled thickness and so more consistent between notes.
  19. In the color chart of reed offerings above, they identify a range for each. Although the progression of sizes seems regular, the range of notes/tones is not. Some are offered with as few as 9 half-steps and others as many as 19. I wonder why this would be so. Perhaps the spring steel differs in thickness?
  20. https://www.harmonikas.cz/en/dix-concertina-original/
  21. Ken may be correct, but any information is better than none. I would think that the likely hand tuning after receipt from the factory would distinguish a maker. There are not many making concertinas in comparison to "hybrids" if you count the Chinese-factory brands. Have I got all?: Carroll - makes his own Edgley - web page doesn't say Ghent - page doesn't say Holden - makes his own Irish Concertina Co. - page doesn't say Kensington - makes his own Seven Mount - not taking orders Suttner - page doesn't say Thomas - page doesn't say Wakker - makes his own Wolverton - makes his own
  22. Doing more searching, I have found where others have writen that some makers are buying traditional concertina reeds from https://www.harmonikas.cz/en/ or perhaps another factory. Can anyone say which makers and which factories? (Not that I think outsourcing this work is bad.) It would be very beneficial to know where every maker's reeds are made. Given the skill and training needed for this work, having factory products being used might be reassuring to some buyers. It would also be nice if replacements might be acquired should they be needed - granting that expert fitting and tuning would also be necessary.
  23. Here is an article I found written about accordions. https://petosa.com/blogs/accordion-culture/the-heart-and-soul-of-an-accordion-by-joe-petosa
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