Famuswood Posted October 10, 2023 Posted October 10, 2023 I am going to replace the pads in a 1953 Wheatstone 48 key English concertina. I would like to learn what glue is best for attaching them. Thanks
alex_holden Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 I use rabbit skin glue, mixed quite thick. You need some sort of glue pot to keep it warm because it gels quickly when it cools down to room temperature. Alternatively fish glue or liquid hide glue would work and don't need to be heated. I prefer not to use modern synthetic glues like PVA or contact adhesive etc. because they would be difficult to remove the next time the pads need replacing. 1
SteveS Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 (edited) I use hide glue. My glue pot is a jam jar on an upturned jam jar lid in a bain-marie. Heat source is a single electric ring that I bought off Amazon (about €19) together with a coffee thermometer suspended in the ban-marie water . I find that liquid hide glue, although it has a longer open time, takes a long time to set hard - heated hide glue hardens in a much shorter time. BTW I also use hide glue for valves - makes the removal of the old glue a breeze. Edited October 14, 2023 by SteveS 2
Famuswood Posted October 13, 2023 Author Posted October 13, 2023 Thanks so much for the replies. Very helpful. Has anyone used shellac?
RogerT Posted October 14, 2023 Posted October 14, 2023 I use modern PVA wood glue, which sets pretty hard. Any glue that doesn’t set hard is a problem because you don't want the pad to move on the end of the arm. Removing and re-gluing pads may or may not be made more difficult by this choice of glue, but for the repair in hand it works well and in any case I make my own pads so replacing them isn't an issue. So I guess it's a repairer's choice. I've tried quite a few different glues and this works for me.
alex_holden Posted October 15, 2023 Posted October 15, 2023 9 hours ago, RogerT said: I use modern PVA wood glue, which sets pretty hard. Any glue that doesn’t set hard is a problem because you don't want the pad to move on the end of the arm. Removing and re-gluing pads may or may not be made more difficult by this choice of glue, but for the repair in hand it works well and in any case I make my own pads so replacing them isn't an issue. So I guess it's a repairer's choice. I've tried quite a few different glues and this works for me. If the pads next need to be replaced 50 years from now, you're making a choice now that will affect some future repairer who may not have been born yet. Pads are one of the less awkward places to find PVA glue in an instrument, but it may mean you have to replace all the leather grommets when otherwise they could have been reused.
Famuswood Posted October 19, 2023 Author Posted October 19, 2023 Has anyone heard of or used Canopy glue? It dries clear and remains flexible. I used it to seal my bellows in areas that are obviously allowing air to escape. You can't even tell it's been applied when it dries.
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