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Tassie Tiger C/g Reed Pans


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Jake, thank you for your compliment. Rectangular strip like the 'Broad reed Jones', of 1880 but 10% wider across all reed tongues. No low reeds required weighting (although 1 did so on the DG I made a while back). I am very pleased with the sound. The hardest part was replacing files, a bit rough on the pocket, after experimenting with some expensive, 2nd cut Valtitan Swiss files, which barely scratched through 50 reeds I discovered the Nicholson 2nd cut, made in Brazil (and also in Mexico), the cheapest file in the shop and by far the best. So one does not necessarily get what one pays for in files, it seems..

 

David

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The hardest part was replacing files, a bit rough on the pocket, after experimenting with some expensive, 2nd cut Valtitan Swiss files, which barely scratched through 50 reeds I discovered the Nicholson 2nd cut, made in Brazil (and also in Mexico), the cheapest file in the shop and by far the best. So one does not necessarily get what one pays for in files, it seems..

 

Interesting. I found that the Vallorbe jeweller's saw blades aren't hard enough to cut stainless steel; a cheaper brand lasts much longer.

 

I use Nicholson triangular saw files to sharpen woodworking hand saws (which are made from a fairly hard spring steel), and they seem to work fine for that application. I was involved in a related discussion between blacksmiths on another forum recently, and one school of thought is that if you're filing tough steels any file will dull sooner or later, so you're better off buying a mid-range brand (I'd put Nicholson in that category) and replacing them often rather than splashing out on an expensive brand and carrying on using them past their best. In other words a file that costs three times as much doesn't last three times as long. Most people agree though that it's not worth buying the really cheap unbranded ones.

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