Johann Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Chris, I think we use the same type of files for the porose. Some of these file are rather old and do the job, because i don't need this files as much as others. I always look for a file dimension that fits best the size of the slot since the size of the slots varys a lot it is not only one file but as you say in the corners it is important to have a file with tiny radius. also important is to use a file that is nearly as wide as the slot length and at the same time being slim enough to do the job. Some of this files like this: http://www.schreinerhandel.de/Raspeln---Feilen/Stahlfeilen/Glardon-Vallorbe--Flachfeilen--Kreuzhieb.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.elliott Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Well first off I think this has been talked about before, but I can't find the discussion, so if this is pretty much exactly the same question, I'm ok with just being redirected to the old thread. Alrighty so I just finished up retuning my harmonica and it's getting me thinking about ever working on one or two of my slightly out of tune concertina reeds. They aren't really bad enough to mess with them yet, but eventually... So I'm just wondering about some differences to watch out for between tuning brass harmonica and traditional steel concertina reeds. Maybe some dangers to watch out for or is it pretty much the same. Slow and steady, little bit by little bit until you get it perfect. I ended up using Dave Elliott's concertina book tips for tuning concertina reeds and took those tips for tuning the harmonica. Used 400 and 220 grit sandpaper. Along with that, would I run a risk of causing those micro cracks using a grit as course as 220 on the steel concertina reeds? I use 400 grit diamond files, I find that 200 grit is too course for control. but remember that the oldies used fine files so you need to be that smooth or better. Micro cracking results from corrosion pitting, or from stress raising deep and sharp notched scratches leading to fatigue failure. the finer the polish the longer the reed life. Dave Is there a brand for the diamond files you'd recommend over another? Firstly. I used to use Swiss needle files until I found something better, so like Steve, I am also an Oldie, but I have found the diamond files sold by TREND, the carbide router cutter and wood working tool company, the best value and best wearing. The Trend 'fine' are 600 grit and sharp. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 As i posted before i use for some work or tuning depending on the amount of material to remove also diamond files, but not all i came across were useable, may be the ones you recommend are even better. Can you tell the exact part number oft this files. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.elliott Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 TREND DWS/NFT/F DIAMOND NEEDLE FILE TRIANGLE FINE shop around for price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Tanks! looks good. Unfortunately can't find it on ebay with postage to Austria. Looks like there are also some other diamond needle files with grit 600 and different schaps, from other suppliers. The flat file with grit 400 works also on most reeds for me but on the very small ones i still use sandpaper glued to a stick wood for fine tuning (if i just want marginal corrections). On the big reeds for me it is still the better choice to use files. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.elliott Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Johann, my advice is to stay with what works for you, I started with machine cut needle files. For final finishing and small reeds I used wet & dry paper to make my own fine files. I then changed over to diamond files, mainly because of the number of instruments I have to tune each month/ year. I also have the big reeded Bass and Baritones that I seem to attract, these have a lot of metal to move for only small pitch changes. If you are only tuning for your own instrument collection then buy cheap and expect to discard the diamond file and / or stay with abrasive paper on a stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Collicutt Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 http://forum.melodeon.net/index.php/topic,13284.0.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) Yes this is a Link to the work i am in at the moment, the two boxes are nearly finished and tuned. I also do some work for others but i don't do it for living. I am into this kind of work since 1980. https://www.facebook.com/johann.pascher https://www.facebook.com/johann.pascher/photos Older fotos: https://plus.google.com/photos/116672106411032803534/albums?banner=pwa Edited January 14, 2014 by Johann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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