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Łukasz Martynowicz

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Everything posted by Łukasz Martynowicz

  1. I know this table and I know Helmholz model. What I try to tell you is that you can make the reed work perfectly well with non-orthogonal cavities that do not follow this model, thus the model is overly simplistic. Another example - I’m currently trying to solve the following problem: I have two F3 reeds in the box I’m building, both cavities have exact same geometries (classic Helmholz orthogonal), one causes beating, the other does not. The problem is not reed related nor valve related, as it doesn’t follow the reed when swapped. It is also not air leak decoupling related as you imply above in similar context. What is different between those sides is position on the reedpan relative to outer border and surrounding endplate geometry. Since you seem to understand reed physics way better than I do, maybe you can point me in a proper direction here? I have encountered the same problem in the other box and have indeed thought at first that introducing cavity leak will solve it, but it didn’t. This particular case has different reed, different valve, different cavity dimensions (coincidentally it is the same note, F3) and the spectrum is ok up until I secure the enbox screws. Any suggestions?
  2. I’ve mentioned chamber length and not volume for two reasons: first, this pretty much the only variable available when working with hybrid concertinas and anyone working with physical reeds imidiately learns, that they either work poorly or don’t work at all without the chamber, thus volume. Secondly, length and volume are two separate degrees of freedom when working with most difficult reeds - lowest and highest. As Alex wrote above, below certain reed size (this varies with particular properties of reed construction) reeds don’t speak at all with chambers that are too short, (this includes setups without chambers) so you have to first increase the length to make reed speak properly and only then you work with volume to shape the tone. With highest reeds, combined volume of chamber and air canal can prevent reed from speaking at all but you obviously cannot make chambers shorter than tongue length, so you have to decrase depth instead. Lowest reeds problem is also the gratest example why simplified, reductive models aren’t neither accurate nor useful. You can’t simply disregard chamber geometry, valve properties, padhole size, air channel length and action box geometry and still get something realistic. Each of those parameters not only shape the tone or set the pitch, but influence basic reed response. For example, you can stabilise the pitch of the reed and lower starting pressure by enclosing outer box, without having to increase chamber length. You also mention Helmholz resonator, but in my experience real reeds care very little about our simplistic math. I use non-cuboid chambers of quite unorthodox geometry for lowest reeds with great success, Alex tested L shaped chambers and some bass concertinas with layered reedpans rely on air canal volume (effectively another variant of L shaped chamber) to improve reed response. Regarding lowest pressure, I concur with what Alex wrote - with proper, oversized chambers my lowest reeds start basically immediately after lifting the pad under natural fully closed bellows springiness. They are responsive to the point where it is difficult to not make any sound with the pad lifted, so you can safely assume, that starting pressure in your model should aproach zero with increasing tongue length. Also, as Alex mentioned above, you have to account for reeds choking - if you apply too much pressure to stationary tongue, then instead of oscilating the reed will behave as a simple pressure valve.
  3. It varies and it varies enough that this effect is used for pitch bending by overblowing reeds on pull (yes, scale of effect depends on air direction relative to chamber) - lowest reeds (F2-F3) can be easily bend by -25 cents this way. With those lowest notes this effect is also heavily influenced by chamber length. In short chambers (reedplate length) this is so pronounced it is actually very difficult to play at stable pitch at all, while with 250% length chambers pitch is stable in the whole normal bellows pressure range, but still can be bent -5 cents when overblown. You can also affect this effect by changing padhole aperture, with smal holes being more bendable and large holes more stable. So your model must take all those parameters into account. Same effect is used by harmonica players, though they also modify chamber size and aperture on the fly.
  4. 7 1/3” to be exact. But I seriously doubt, that Wim would release a cheap box that would cannibalize Troubadour sales (if there are any, as this is the least reasonable Hayden on the market judged by utility to price ratio) so 34 buttons on Elise 2 seems like the most likely number.
  5. It is perfectly possible to fit 45 accordion reeds flat in 7” box. I have just printed a „field grade camping box” last week using reclaimed Elise bellows and reeds (which are in fact slightly oversized and the whole task would be a lot easier if they had standard scaling). All but 3 lowest of those 45 reeds are flat mounted, with only three lowest notes having my slanted chambers to improve response to instantaneous). I sincerely do not know why 7” Peacock has only 42 buttons and why Wim continues to design disfunctional Haydens when he clearly has the expertise to make all other systems properly.
  6. I see that Bob Tedrow is still listed - some time ago he has announced on his facebook page that he’s retiring and he won’t build concertinas anymore.
  7. I was thinking not about manufacturing method, but the underlying principle, because Goran's claim was that my design was "nothing new". As it turns out however, even the goals of Michael's design were entirely different. Thanks again for providing the link.
  8. Thank you! Just as I thought, it's a completely different beast.
  9. A question for the c.net collective mind: in a rather heated discussion on facebook group, Goran Rahm (known around here more than a decade ago from what I gather) has stated, that this type of handle design had been proposed earlier by Michael Bell in Concertina World 421 Nov 2001 (with drawings) and later in an article here on c.net (with photos). I have found the relevant link in this thread but the link is sadly no longer active and I can't find Concertina World article either. Does anyone here know where can I find drawings or photos of Michael's design? Just curious how close our concepts are.
  10. Ok, so here is a very short video of the freedom and control this handle design gives. No actual playing yet, as a) it is not tuned yet, and b) I have to relearn how to play first https://youtu.be/rd8M5eeYMWk @dabbler: buttons, button interfaces and pads are printed with simple "matt PLA", as there are no special concerns regarding durability or longevity of the material for those parts, you won't submerge the concertina anyways (and I don't expect to move to high humidity area any time soon either). And no, I won't be lubricating those, there is a layer of felt between the button and the paddle to take care of noise and friction.
  11. This is why it is 6mm thick solid wood, and my handle design leaves no force on the fretwork whatsoever - the only contact points are fingers and the "anvil" part of the handle. So I'm pretty confident that it won't snap under normal use conditions. Of course accidents may happen, but there is nothing hard in repairing this in such unfortunate case, benefits of shellac finish.
  12. There will be an air vent lever, but I needed to solve the handle design first (which, in turn, needed a working platform to work on), so it is "to do", I forgot to list it above. It is a bit hard to make picture with hands crossed, but I'll post a short video once the whole thing is finished to show the capabilities of this handle design. Probably within two weeks. On first two attached photos you can see how this works in resting position (bear in mind that forearm angle is caused by trying to make a photo), then next two show examples of extreme reach - all D# pressed and then all Cs with highest F with a pinky. Any "wrap arounds", chords (including whatever 4 finger chords you need) etc are easily reachable all over the place because there is no classic handrest to go in the way and limit the movement of the palm. Thumb does not bear any load, everything rests on the "door handle" part between the thumb and the index finger (under which you "roll" the hand to reach everything), the thumb "strap" works like a thimble and only anchors the hand in relation to the button array. Bellows can be properly operated because the thumb is locked in one plane between the "door handle" and "the anvil" parts but free to swivel back and forth otherwise. What is important is that there is no gymnastics or awkward twisting of the muscles involved (as occur with hand straps because confines of the strap), because both the palm and the wrist are completely free, so it is very easy on the hand. This really resembles "flying hand", just anchored with a thumb thimble. Also, the plane of the thumb is not parallel to the endplates, but at a sharp angle to it, so wrists and arms work in ergonomic way.
  13. Reeds are now installed and mostly adjusted for attack speed and volume, only highest reeds need some more adjustments. Lowest reeds have rather complex chambers to achieve immediate response at minimal pressures. The whole thing is fast but heavy, as one expects from box with 62 reeds. Because this project was first designed for a set of larger-than-standard old russian reeds, which were then exchanged for smaller-than-standard DIX reeds it could be a bit smaller. (It is now 8 2/3" but could be about 8"). It weights 2200g. Only those highest reeds, bellows papers, handles staining/polishing and endplate meshes left to do at this point. And learning how to play on it after another 8 months of break...
  14. Handles are completely non-traditional. Large Haydens are difficult to play with hand straps, so I've designed this. It allows nearly "flying hand", I can comfortably reach entire RH array with practically ANY finger. This enables playing large chords or octaves all over the place - I can use my pinky at the top or index finger for D# easily. The "door handle" part substitutes strap completely in sitting position, even with only single lap support and free floating second side. It is 3d printed with wood filament and will be stained and polished to match the ends.
  15. Buttons are metal capped with PLA cores, slightly concave with beveled edge and go all-in into the endplate. They have 3mm travel and are set to 80g of force.
  16. Mechanisms are non-traditional. Some of the levers were too short for classic button-lever interface, so mine are decoupled - buttons press on the levers and are confined by a collar at the endplate side. Button cores, lever interfaces and pad "papers" are 3d printed.
  17. And this is how the box looks stained and coated with a layer of shellac.
  18. Ok, so it's major update time. When I left the work all those years ago, the endplates were still a mess. This is how they look after dozens more hours of filing.
  19. If you have any questions on how to actually use this Musescore fork, feel free to ask, as it comes without any instructions and has some non-intuitive elements to it at first preparation/template making stage.
  20. When life presents such a dillema to me I come at it from a different angle - how will I feel afterwards with possible outcomes. If you don’t accept and nobody get’s sick afterwards you have just lost a gig and some money, you will forget about it in a week or two. If someone does get sick, you won’t and your life goes on uninterrupted - you can pat yourself in the back for making good decision. If you go and nobody get’s sick, you get some money and a nice if a bit scary evening and a week or two living in uncertainty and stress if you are susceptible to such worries. And if you go and do get sick, you will forever regret going, especially if you propagate this desease on your family or friends. Now because all those eventualities have unknown weights and our brains realy and fundamentally suck at probabilities, there is no room for rationality here, only for psychology - personally, are you scared and seek confirmation with this post, or have you already decided on going because COVID is no big deal and seek confirmation that there is nothing to worry about?
  21. Seconded on "Musix" by Shiverware. I use it regularily on train journeys for fingering practice/learning new material without annoying fellow passengers. If you (Sean) are interested in CBAs you can get a hang of the differences in fingering between C- and B-system within the same neat package. One thing though - default orientations are designed for devices lying flat, so trying to hold your phone to mimic concertina orientation doesn't work out-of-the-box, but fortunately you can design your own presets so this obstacle can be overcome. Even on small phone you can fit one entire side of Elise with true "buttons" spacing, thus train your muscle memory for the real instrument.
  22. Amelie soundtrack is exactly what got me into duets and most of my repertoire is adapted from accordions. Haydens are very intuitive for typical oom-pah chord progressions and Elise is good enough (although very limiting) entry point for learning to play this kind of music. However, this is also the exact reason why I find available upgrade path problematic - both Troubadour and Peacock from Concertina Connection lack LH A4, which occurs a lot in accordion style oom-pahs (and you will use it a lot on Elise for this kind of music). Personally I find missing a single note out of accompaniment circle of otherwise rich, three note chords utterly annoing and arrangement breaking. So, for me, this cuts down purchase worthy and reachable upgrade options solely to Beaumont. If you also consider CBA to be an option, then take a look at Hohner Nova I 49f - this is the smallest free-bass accordion, allowing duet-like countermelody arrangements. Similarily to duets, it has the same button layout for both hands.
  23. I have played both Anglo and Hayden for a couple of months during my transition between systems, but then have abandoned anglo altogether simply because I found duets more suiting my needs. But I had no problem switching instruments during practice session, as the nature of those two systems is so much apart, that there was no confusioin at all. But, as years long owner of Elise I must ask - what repertoire exactly are you thinking of? Because the main difference in instrument limitations between anglos and duets isn't bisonoric vs unisonoric nature of the instrument, but the universal range of notes on the anglo vs model specific range of notes on duets - up to a level of "standard" 46 or Beaumont 52 keys you will always desire more, as you will run into many arragements problems. And while Hayden is a great system and Elise is an ok entry level instrument, it is, at it's core, a diatonic instrument dressed up into chromatic outfit. So be aware, from the very start, of the prices and note ranges of upgrade options and check what exact range you will need for your final desired repertoire.
  24. Nowadays you have the following options, in price order: Stagi, then Troubadour & Peacock from Concertina Connection, then Beaumont from Morse Concertinas, and finally Wakker H-1 & H-2. Note range wise the list goes as follows: 36 button Troubadour, 42 Peacock, 46 Stagi and Wakker H-1, 52 Beaumont, 65 Wakker H-2. That is all.
  25. I actually have two tunes causing trouble by this. The feature I talk about is even more pronounced on slanted Park layout (similar hex based layout with whole tone/minor third/perfect fourth instead of Hayden's whole tone/perfect fourth/perfect fifth axes) where you play all major, minor, seventh, sus4 and augmented chords with a natural middle finger position further from the palm. On a Hayden you play minor and sus4 chords with inverted finger position, with your longest finger closest to the palm, which causes me a lot of troubles with left hand minor chord oom-pahs and arpeggios, because my middle finger attack angle is so skewed (I have very long fingers) and Hayden slant emphasises this problem even further for the left hand.
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