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Recently faced with a 30k metal-ended Lachenal whose end and action box frames came in kit form, I devised this hexagonal cramp which may help those of you who, like me, have only slightly more than the average number of hands.

 

It consists of 6 identical pieces of hardwood, each with a length of threaded rod screwed directly into it. The rod then passes through a hole drilled in the next piece of wood, and its length is adjusted by a wing-nut. Note that at the apex of each frame joint, each piece of the cramp has had a hole drilled out before cutting began. This is to eliminate the possibility of any glue which is squeezed out of the joint coming into contact with the cramp.

 

It is important to locate the pieces of frame on the bellows by means of the end-bolts before you start to tighten the cramp. Also, you should cut a paper mask to avoid contaminating the chamois leather seals with glue. All that being said, the device works very well, and allows you to achieve a perfect matching of the corner joints with minimum effort. And depending on the length of your rod (as it were) it is adaptable to fit any size of hexagonal concertina.

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I had the same problem last year and ended up buying what i think was a Draper Frame Clamp With 2M Strap as found on ebay or hobby shops , quick and easy to use and it did the job fine , but your invention looks good and would be able to assert more pressure .

 

Mike

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I may well have to get it out again when my new project arrives in a few days time ! I hope not but one never knows until a thorough inspection has been done to see what i have let myself in for this time .

 

Mike

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Recently faced with a 30k metal-ended Lachenal whose end and action box frames came in kit form, I devised this hexagonal cramp which may help those of you who, like me, have only slightly more than the average number of hands.

 

It consists of 6 identical pieces of hardwood, each with a length of threaded rod screwed directly into it. The rod then passes through a hole drilled in the next piece of wood, and its length is adjusted by a wing-nut. Note that at the apex of each frame joint, each piece of the cramp has had a hole drilled out before cutting began. This is to eliminate the possibility of any glue which is squeezed out of the joint coming into contact with the cramp.

 

It is important to locate the pieces of frame on the bellows by means of the end-bolts before you start to tighten the cramp. Also, you should cut a paper mask to avoid contaminating the chamois leather seals with glue. All that being said, the device works very well, and allows you to achieve a perfect matching of the corner joints with minimum effort. And depending on the length of your rod (as it were) it is adaptable to fit any size of hexagonal concertina.

Nice design! I like that you can use it for different sizes. I have just used the straping clamps that were mentioned, but yours has more presision.

Jon

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Recently faced with a 30k metal-ended Lachenal whose end and action box frames came in kit form, I devised this hexagonal cramp which may help those of you who, like me, have only slightly more than the average number of hands.

 

It consists of 6 identical pieces of hardwood, each with a length of threaded rod screwed directly into it. The rod then passes through a hole drilled in the next piece of wood, and its length is adjusted by a wing-nut. Note that at the apex of each frame joint, each piece of the cramp has had a hole drilled out before cutting began. This is to eliminate the possibility of any glue which is squeezed out of the joint coming into contact with the cramp.

 

It is important to locate the pieces of frame on the bellows by means of the end-bolts before you start to tighten the cramp. Also, you should cut a paper mask to avoid contaminating the chamois leather seals with glue. All that being said, the device works very well, and allows you to achieve a perfect matching of the corner joints with minimum effort. And depending on the length of your rod (as it were) it is adaptable to fit any size of hexagonal concertina.

 

 

Very nice job, Should help with alot of projects and I can see making one for eight sided beasties as well. Though Hide glue does help as once you get a nice glaze set it does tend to grab and hold as long as it gets a good five minutes to start setting up. Still will have to build me a set of those. One question how did you bed the rod in the block so that it won't start turning on you as you tighten it?

 

Michael

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One question how did you bed the rod in the block so that it won't start turning on you as you tighten it?

 

Michael

 

Simply drill the hole a little smaller than the threaded rod. Tightening the wingnuts tends to screw the rod in, not out. I suppose you could always smear the rod end with Araldite, but it seems to hold fast without it.

David

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One question how did you bed the rod in the block so that it won't start turning on you as you tighten it?

 

Michael

 

Simply drill the hole a little smaller than the threaded rod. Tightening the wingnuts tends to screw the rod in, not out. I suppose you could always smear the rod end with Araldite, but it seems to hold fast without it.

David

If the wood is hard enough, you can tap it with a tap and die set, I do this with my cork adjusters on my flutes.

Jon

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