Bellows Paper Replacement

[Doug Barr]

Thinking about replacing old bellows papers. Do I take off the old papers? With what, they seem to be on ther pretty tight. Do I just paste on new papers over old? How can I freshen up the bellows...some kind of shoe cream or polish or a wax product...leather dye? Any Ideas Thanks Doug Barr

[Dave Prebble]

Thinking about replacing old bellows papers. Do I take off the old papers? With what, they seem to be on ther pretty tight. Do I just paste on new papers over old? How can I freshen up the bellows...some kind of shoe cream or polish or a wax product...leather dye? Any Ideas Thanks Doug Barr

 

Hi Doug,

 

Yes I would always advise removing the old papers before fitting new. Looks like a dog's breakfast otherwise.

 

In old instruments papers are nearly always attached with water soluble gum or hide glue. Trouble often is that the surface of the paper absorbs grease, wax, tar, a variety of varnishes and heaven knows what else over the years and often seems to have become fairly waterproof. In theory, you apply a little water with a rag or fine brush, wait a few minutes and hey presto ! ...they just slide off.

 

In practice it often takes a little more persuasion. If water is left waiting to be absorbed for too long this increases the chances of it running off and escaping onto the leather. Do remember that the glues that hold your bellows together are also water soluble.

When I come across awkward papers, in order to 'break the waterproof 'seal' and allow the water to get down to the glue layer, I dampen the paper and dip a small (1" x 1/2") piece of wet & dry sandpaper in some water and very carefully rub this over the paper to 'de-glaze' the surface a little. Avoid the extreme edges and do take care not to scratch the leather. After you have done the 'sandpapering', another application of water and a few minutes patience will usually do the trick. I use a round flat spade ended clay modelling tool to lift the papers, though any similar smooth ended implement would do. Once the paper is off, use a lint free damp cloth to remove all the old gum from the where the paper was taken.

 

Do take care to check for, and immediately mop up, any water runs that occur during this process. It is easy for gravity to work it's evil way and water will collect at the bottom of the bellows where you can't see it and could cause significant problems. Take care and it will be fine.

 

Don't be in a rush.

Until you really get the hang of it, don't work on more than one or two papers at once. It is also a good idea after removing a couple of papers, to turn it over and do a couple on the other side. This will give a chance for any excess water to dry off from where you have been working.

 

Eventually you will have removed all the papers and will be sat there thinking ' I can't believe how many papers there were on this concertina'. Now is the time to check the bellows thoroughly for any pinholes or cracks etc that need repairing.

 

Once repairs have been done, you can apply a * light * dressing of proprietory leather treatment. . Most of these are based on soft wax and lanolin and if you apply too much, it will eventually bleed through and discolour the new papers.

 

To bring back colour I use french polishers spirit stains but these are not so easy to find and are pretty unforgiving if you get things wrong.

I would suggest you try a leather dye from a craft shop. Black is fine but Green may need a touch of black blending in if it is not to look too garish.

Read the instructions and do test it out on some scrap leather first... the wife/hubbys designer shoes perhaps ??.....

You will have better control if you don a surgical glove and apply by wiping it on thinly with a bit of rag stretched over the index finger. The 'mops' they often supply with the leather dyes are clumsy and hold far too much stain. You really don't need much at all.

I would suggest that you do this work with the concertina ends off. This will avoid staining the wood and also please note that the solvents used in the stains may well attack the wood polish.

Let the stain dry thoroughly before the next stage.

 

To seal the stain and impart a little bit of a shine. I use a very thin wipe of french polish diluted 50:50 with methyl alcohol, again applied with a rag on the finger. Don't apply to much or you will end up with glossy looking leather that would stop an arrow from Robin Hood. Again experiment first till you feel confident.

 

Don't be alarmed if it the black dye seems to look a bit 'coppery' when it dries out, the application of polish will turn it black - try it first on scrap leather and see.

 

Once the polish is dried, you can fit the new papers. You will have gone to a lot of trouble to get this far so don't 'spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar', buy good quality papers with a good surface finish, not photocopied imitations.

Use a simple water soluble natural gum to fix the papers, available in craft shops and stationers.

 

Take your time and work your way longways along each side of the bellows doing the 'left hand slopes' all in one pass, then reversing the bellows and doing all the 'right hand slopes' If you carefully fix the two end ones first, you can use these to 'sight in' the others as you position them. Be careful to centre them carefully and also ensure they are all at the same depth from the peaks of the folds.

 

Once this is done, re-assemble and finish off with a light application of soft beeswax polish applies with a cloth.

 

If you have taken your time and experimented along the way, you will now be a shade older that you were when you started, and will be pretty pleased with yourself. Enjoy the feeling..

 

You will have earned it!

 

Regards

 

Dave

[Doug Barr]

Thanks Dave for all the info and advice. Doug Barr