Sticking / binding buttons on an AP James Anglo

[David S]

I have an AP James Anglo in my posession at the moment; some of the keys bind momentarily both when pressed and stick when released. The buttons on this concertina are metal (stainless steel?) but they do not have a guide pin; the whole width of the button continues into the guide hole in the action board. This means that there is a much larger surface area to 'stick' in the guide hole. Can anyone suggest a remedy to the keys binding in the hole? I wondered about using a grease/oil free graphite suspension to coat the inside of the hole but haven't done anything yet other than to ensure that the guide holes are clean and smooth.

 

You advice much appreciated.

 

David

[Theo]

I have an AP James Anglo in my posession at the moment; some of the keys bind momentarily both when pressed and stick when released. The buttons on this concertina are metal (stainless steel?) but they do not have a guide pin; the whole width of the button continues into the guide hole in the action board. This means that there is a much larger surface area to 'stick' in the guide hole. Can anyone suggest a remedy to the keys binding in the hole? I wondered about using a grease/oil free graphite suspension to coat the inside of the hole but haven't done anything yet other than to ensure that the guide holes are clean and smooth.

 

You advice much appreciated.

 

David

 

You have used false logic to identify the full width buttons as source of the problem - after all its only some of the keys that are binding, presumably the ones that are not binding are the same shape.

 

The solution will depend on the cause of the sticking. Possible causes that come to mind without seeing the instrument are: lever out of line pressing button against side of guide hole; outer and inner guide holes out of alignment; rough finish on the guide hole; roughness on the button surface, felt bush binding; weak spring; spring rubbing on something; lever pivot tight; edge of pad in contact with woodwork, so some more detective work is in order!

 

Graphite can be useful in dealing with some of those, the simplest way of applying it is just to use a soft pencil to scribble on the rubbing surface. But in general identify the source of the binding first.

[michael sam wild]

I agree Theo I just did the same with a soft pencil after rebushed Jeffries and a lot of playing on all the buttons.

[Frank Edgley]

I agree with Michael & Sam. The problem is possibly with the felt bushings. The graphite from a pencil is a good idea. You can also use a larger than usual diameter pencil and work it through the bushing to compress the felt a bit. The only part of the message from David that leads me to question the diagnosis, is where he says the buttons bind when pressed. Could it be that one pad is too close to another and is touching the other pad. That would result in a momentary feeling of binding when pressed and not returning to the full down position when released.

Edited August 3, 2012 by Frank Edgley

[michael sam wild]

The Jeffries is now well played in and very responsive . The bushing by Bill Crossland was well worth while as the bone buttons were in danger of being worn by the metal ends and assuming a 'capstan' shape