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Best wood grain filler?


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I'm just french polishing a couple of rosewood ends. I'm reasonably experienced at french polishing but the grain is slightly open and I'm not getting a good finish. I've tried plaster of paris with brown umber and red pigments which match the colour perfectly but don't stay in the grain. I have read articles about using pumice powder but I haven't got any at the moment. Any tricks of the trade out there?

BTW They've had 3 good coats of spirit sanding sealer, rubbed down with 1200 grit in between, then 3 sessions of 3-4 coats button polish.

Andy.

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I'm just french polishing a couple of rosewood ends. I'm reasonably experienced at french polishing but the grain is slightly open and I'm not getting a good finish. I've tried plaster of paris with brown umber and red pigments which match the colour perfectly but don't stay in the grain. I have read articles about using pumice powder but I haven't got any at the moment. Any tricks of the trade out there?

BTW They've had 3 good coats of spirit sanding sealer, rubbed down with 1200 grit in between, then 3 sessions of 3-4 coats button polish.

Andy.

Try home-made dyed filler using the following: cascamite, sawdust, spirit dye.

Smooth on and level while still wet.

Sand when dry and before finishing using 600 then 1200 grit.

 

Hope you'll post some pics of your ends when your done.

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I'm just french polishing a couple of rosewood ends. I'm reasonably experienced at french polishing but the grain is slightly open and I'm not getting a good finish. I've tried plaster of paris with brown umber and red pigments which match the colour perfectly but don't stay in the grain. I have read articles about using pumice powder but I haven't got any at the moment. Any tricks of the trade out there?

BTW They've had 3 good coats of spirit sanding sealer, rubbed down with 1200 grit in between, then 3 sessions of 3-4 coats button polish.

Andy.

Try home-made dyed filler using the following: cascamite, sawdust, spirit dye.

Smooth on and level while still wet.

Sand when dry and before finishing using 600 then 1200 grit.

 

Hope you'll post some pics of your ends when your done.

 

Excellent Steve, I'll try that. Don't get enough Rosewood sawdust unfortunately, but I'm sure I'll find a way.

Thanks. Andy.

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I'm just french polishing a couple of rosewood ends. I'm reasonably experienced at french polishing but the grain is slightly open and I'm not getting a good finish. I've tried plaster of paris with brown umber and red pigments which match the colour perfectly but don't stay in the grain. I have read articles about using pumice powder but I haven't got any at the moment. Any tricks of the trade out there?

BTW They've had 3 good coats of spirit sanding sealer, rubbed down with 1200 grit in between, then 3 sessions of 3-4 coats button polish.

Andy.

Try home-made dyed filler using the following: cascamite, sawdust, spirit dye.

Smooth on and level while still wet.

Sand when dry and before finishing using 600 then 1200 grit.

 

Hope you'll post some pics of your ends when your done.

Excellent Steve, I'll try that. Don't get enough Rosewood sawdust unfortunately, but I'm sure I'll find a way.

Thanks. Andy.

Easy solution - stain the sawdust before you mix it with the cascamite.

 

BTW I suggest you test on an off-cut any solution for filler before you apply to the final job at hand.

Edited by SteveS
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Not the easiest stuff to get hold of but cellulose sanding sealer is excellent and very quick and easy to use. It's intended to be sprayed on but works well brushed. Any furniture or instrument maker who uses spray lacquer will have some.

 

I used to use that a lot on furniture, but it's a bit final. I'd rather have something that is closer to the original and can be re-worked, such as shellac based sealer.

Andy

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Not the easiest stuff to get hold of but cellulose sanding sealer is excellent and very quick and easy to use. It's intended to be sprayed on but works well brushed. Any furniture or instrument maker who uses spray lacquer will have some.

 

I used to use that a lot on furniture, but it's a bit final. I'd rather have something that is closer to the original and can be re-worked, such as shellac based sealer.

Andy

 

Have a word/mail Martyn White who has always been a professional with the bee's knees for French Polishing

mwhite AT polishing.freeserve.co.uk with both hands and more recently a mean squeezer and box repairer... also with both hands!

http://www.melodeonrepairs.co.uk/

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Not the easiest stuff to get hold of but cellulose sanding sealer is excellent and very quick and easy to use. It's intended to be sprayed on but works well brushed. Any furniture or instrument maker who uses spray lacquer will have some.

 

I used to use that a lot on furniture, but it's a bit final. I'd rather have something that is closer to the original and can be re-worked, such as shellac based sealer.

Andy

 

Have a word/mail Martyn White who has always been a professional with the bee's knees for French Polishing

mwhite AT polishing.freeserve.co.uk with both hands and more recently a mean squeezer and box repairer... also with both hands!

http://www.melodeonrepairs.co.uk/

 

Thanks for that contact. I'll give Martyn a try.

Andy

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Andy

Having seen the pics of your instrument, another option maybe to fill any narrow cracks with shellac.

Can take a while to do, with a number of repeated applications and levelling between each appliction.

You may even be able to do this with coloured shellac to fill the depressions left by long finger nails.

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