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Everything posted by RWL

  1. Thanks,but not quite what I'm looking for. I'm looking for a staff labled like the one below, but with the C' C'' system that I see used when citing the range of a concertina https://www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/musical-notes-names-staff-treble-clef-1476389549
  2. I must not be using the right search terms. I periodically see references to c' or c'' but I need a chart to show me where they are on the music staff. Does anybody have a link to a chart showing note names on the staff using the c' a' a'' system? Is c' the same as middle c?
  3. Periodically I browse the concertinas at the Buttonbox to see what they have. Boy is the supply down. I'm sure it's related to the pandemic but I wonder whether it's due to more people buying them since they have time to play or whether it's due to some other business effect.
  4. Thanks. I had missed Doug's tree. It just wouldn't be Christmas here without a concertina tree.
  5. ...... and Diana's harp behind. Aside from being a tasteful Christmas decoration, it shows that most everyone who plays for awhile eventually acquires more than one concertina, each with its own voice and 'personality'.
  6. My guess is that with everybody at home due to the virus, they've all sent you their instruments for tuning and you're busy or they've bought all the instruments you have and there aren't enough for a tree.
  7. Isopropyl alcohol softens hot melt glue. No need to heat the stuff. Just drip some alcohol on it. Keep it soaked "awhile" and peel it off.
  8. I have a friend who has a Model 22. It is a little louder than my metal ended Edeophone and she tells me her 22 is louder than a mutual friend's metal ended Aeola. I don't know if all 22's are loud though. Greg could advise on that. Loudness of course isn't the only quality that's important to the sound of the instrument though. Playing them would be an important way to decide. Maybe Greg could play the same tune on both and send you the recordings if you can't visit his shop. When I was at NESI last year I had a chance to try some instruments that Greg set up. They were all very responsive.
  9. "It is very stong alkaline/ammonia based." There are strong admonitions against using ammoniated products to clean brass in the Pressure Lantern (Petromax, Coleman, etc) collectors community and in the bullet reloading groups because it changes the brass and leads to cracks. This may not be much of a problem for the reed shoes which are relatively thick and unstressed, but if you had brass reeds, this may be putting them at risk.
  10. Here in Pennsylvania, the governor has asked all non-essential businesses to close for 2 weeks. Only grocery stores, pharmacies and gas stations are supposed to be open. Restaurants closed - only food places selling take out are allowed. Gyms closed. No gatherings of more than 10 people is what they're recommending. It was hard on the bars which had to be closed for St Patrick's day - one of their biggest commercial times. I haven't left the house to go anywhere for two days, but my wife has to pick up our grandchildren for child care, so she's been back and forth to town. She said there are fewer cars on the road. People have gone nuts buying toilet paper, cleaning products and canned goods so there are a lot of bare spots on store shelves. The stores have finally put limits on how much people can buy so that there is enough product for everyone. They say delivery trucks are still working. The local big hospital in our rural area just announced this evening that they've had their first 3 positive tests for people in our area. I have been playing my concertina as well as my violin and viola.
  11. I think you'll like the Zoom H1n. I'm using a Zoom H4n only because the H1n wasn't available at the time I bought mine. The H4n has more features than most people will use. The H1 and H4 have built in speakers. The H2 doesn't have its own speaker. The H1n is a convenient size to fit in a shirt pocket. The H4n is larger and heavier. I built my concertina cases to fit my H4n alongside the instrument.
  12. If this is a short term/one time thing, why not just swap the D# and Eb reeds around if you're having trouble hitting the Eb button at speed.
  13. The cartoon below was in our local newspaper this morning.
  14. Odd sounding notes - e.g. ones that suddenly go flat or warbly when they had been previously fine. Notes that don't speak as well as the others. Knowing when it's time to replace the pads
  15. I bought the plywood for another case yesterday. The next one will be for my Edeophone. I'm getting tired of the weight of the original case I made for it. The Edeophone is a tenor treble, so it's a little heavier to begin with. I can see why they made some instruments with aluminum reed shoes. Hopefully the new case in 1/4" plywood will be substantially lighter. Another label idea would be to identify it as a doggy doo carrier. I'd miss my instrument if were stolen, but one of the band mates has a violin that's valuable enough that he never lets it out of his sight, including bringing it into the restaurant when we go to lunch after a late morning practice. The Edeophone is pricey, but not in the same league as his fiddle. It stays in the car for short periods unless the temperature is really extreme.
  16. Thanks for the clarification. Also, I had missed the fact that you had mentioned you were using an epoxy putty the first time around. I was thinking viscous fluid epoxy. When I need to have epoxy with a little bit of substance, I trim some fuzz off the edge of fiberglass body material fabric and mix that in the epoxy to make it stiffer.
  17. I'll have my son 3D print a pencil/screwdriver holder for me as in the photo below of my Edeophone in its case. Before I had the plastic pencil holder, I used a thin plastic tube that held the screwdriver upright. It was secured to the cloth in the corner with double sided cellphane tape - which didn't hold very well. The case for my Edeophone does have foam backer surrounding the instrument. There's enough room in the new Wheatstone's case that I could still add the foam padding. Making a new case for the Edeophone is on the agenda. The 1/2" plywood I used for that is too heavy. You can see the strap "rings" sticking out on the sides. I'll add those to my Wheatstone case too.
  18. I used green suede as the cloth lining and thin cardboard (about the thickness of cardboard from new shirts) as the backer. I glued the fabric to the cardboard with spray-on contact adhesive and it worked well for this purpose. I used double sided cellophane tape to adhere the lining to the interior of the case. This is not holding as well as I'd like and on one or two panels so I might go back and redo those areas with either double sided carpet tape or glue dots. I covered the corner blocks with the same fabric but used hot melt glue to adhere it to the wood. I used two drywall screws per block to affix the corner blocks. You can see the screw heads on the outside of the case. Aesthetically this is the only part that I don't like, but I didn't know of a better way to do this. In theory I could have glued the blocks to the interior of the case, but it would have broken up the interior lining into multiple small sections, which I wanted to avoid. As you can see from the completed case, I left room to the right of the instrument for incidentals. I typically carry reading glasses and a screwdriver in my case. The space is also large enough to add a hand held recorder. I have a few odds and ends to complete. I haven't bought a handle for it yet and I need to add corner protectors - anybody have a recommendation for corner protectors? I will probably recess the nuts for the hinges and latch into the weather guard. I also like to have a carrying strap for my case - it helps at the NE Squeeze In where the walks from workshop to workshop are on uneven ground and a little longer than the usual walk from the car to a building. I need to make the strap hardware yet.
  19. The material is 1/4" plywood and the tabbed edges were cut for me on a laser cutter by my son at the university. The tabbed edges made a strong glued joint. After gluing it, I sawed off the box top. I added the hinges, twist latch, and weather shield prior to covering the outside of the case in 900 denier nylon fabric. I spray painted the case black in areas where there would be seam joints in the cloth to obscure any gaps that might occur in the cloth seams. I used brush on contact cement on this one. On a previous case I had used spray on contact cement and it didn't hold the fabric as well. After the exterior cloth was on, I reassembled the hardware and weather guard. The pieces of the weather guard needed to be shortened once the cloth was placed, so fitting this previously just made a little more work than necessary. The only reason I made the weather shield was to give the box a little more strength in this area. It is just pieces of 2x4 ripped to about 3/16" thickness and sanded. I did need to give the outer edges a few degrees of bevel so that the lid closed on it without interference. More photos of finishing the interior in the next post.
  20. Dave, a point of clarification. By "wet" do you mean taking a toothpick and smearing the epoxy around the inside of the hole to push it into all the nooks and crannies, or does putting water into the hole do something to make the epoxy extend farther or adhere better (counterintutive to me since I think of epoxy and water being repellent of each other, but really useful to know if water and epoxy work this way). This may be one of those situations where "wet" has a different connotation in the UK and the USA.
  21. Don't forget to put some type of release agent on the screw or you'll permanently glue the screw to the instrument. The usual recommendation in metal working groups is to use Johnson's paste wax as the release agent, but IIRC grease also works. In theory, epoxy being a plastic, if you forget to coat a screw with a release agent, you can heat the metal to the point that the epoxy melts and then back it out. I've read that the usual epoxy begins to melt somewhere over 200ºF. If you used JB Weld (in the US) it melts at around 450º-500º F which is the temperature that wood begins to char.
  22. Send more photos. I want to see the completion of this and how it works.
  23. I don't play every day, but I do play often enough. My fingertips still get a little tender if I've been playing for an hour or two. Not unbearably tender, but I do notice them.
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