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Everything posted by RWL

  1. Is there any particular type of felt that makers and repairers consider the best type for making pads? e.g. hard / medium/ or soft. Wool vs synthetic? Alternatively, what qualities should pad felt have or what function does it serve? Are there any downsides to the 1/8" thick craft felt sheets sold at Michaels / Hobby Lobby / Joann Fabrics, etc? This company http://durofelt.com/products.html gets good press in the black powder antique firearms community. This is the American outlet for a specialty felt manufacturer in India. Does anybody have any experience with their felts?
  2. Do you use the drill press as an arbor press and push the whole way through or just mark the leather?
  3. I'm always interested in hearing what others are using. I used spray on contact adhesive based on some other comments here at C.net
  4. Excellent. Although a small diameter drill bit is less likely to drift in Delrin than in wood when making this, I think this could be done with a piece of wood as well.
  5. I have no doubt that would work given sufficient wattage and a belt that would lay flat. The one at the university where my son works did a wonderful job cutting out the finger joints for two concertina cases I made. Did you actually cut some beads with a laser cutter? If so, I'd be interested in seeing how they came out. If I were doing the entire instrument I might consider having him run off a batch for me.
  6. Dave, that's probably the easier way to do it and as dumb as it sounds, I just hadn't considered doing it that way. I'll have to try that and see how I make out. I also discovered the reason I couldn't upload the images. There's a lifetime limit of uploads of about 11Mb and I've hit it. I hate to delete images from some of my ancient posts because they're a reference for others. The alternative is to put images on an external site and link to them, but photos at those places also some times are deleted making some previous posts useless.
  7. Is chipboard the same as something like the thin cardboard that comes in new dress shirts or that's used in gift boxes? I had thought about using those. Both of those alternatives have at least one shiny white surface. It's possible that they aren't that way in other parts of the world. The single layer of poster board is working OK for the pads that I did make although laminating two pieces of the .017" thick poster board would make these closer to the height of the original pads.
  8. I think Mike Pierceall did it the way you describe, drilling the hole first and then centering the punch around the hole. It worked for him. I was using Window's PowerToys resizer and the "medium" resized images were 100k to 190k. It wouldn't even let me post the first one, telling me that the image exceeded the 30k limit.
  9. That's what I have for the larger pads. They are not very sharp and would benefit from a sharpening. Also, there is a jump from 1/2" to 5/8" and the set would benefit from a 9/16" punch for concertina work. In an old post, Mike Pierceall mentions making a punch from a piece of pipe. As I thought about it this evening after having cut the 'sides' off of a 5/8" pad to fit one of the oval holes in my instrument, I don't see any reason why the pads have to be round. They're probably round because it was a convenient way for the factory to produce lots of pads and round cutting dies probably being easier to make than square ones, but for a one-off, I don't see why the pads couldn't be square or rectangular and it would avoid having to buy punches altogether. At this point I'm making mine round because I'm only making a few pads and I want them to be similar to what's in the instrument, but if I were doing all of the pads, I'd consider making them rectangular. It would be a lot easier to cut them in bulk with a straight edge and a razor knife.
  10. I didn't find much here on how to make the leather beads that connect the arms to the pads. This is what I came up with. The beads on my Edeophone measure about 3/16" diameter and the hole in the old bead is about .063". A #52 wire size drill makes the right sized hole. I used a 3/16" punch to make plugs from an old belt. Now - how to hold the leather plug to drill a hole through it longitudinally. Hmmm. I clamped two pieces of wood next to each other and put a hinge on one end so I could open and close the two pieces, sort of like a nut cracker. Next, at the crack between the two pieces I drilled a 3/16" hole into the wood to a depth of the belt thickness. It was too loose and the plug spun when I tried to drill it. In the end a #16 drill made the right undersized hole to keep it from spinning most times. With a #52 drill bit centered over the plug I got about a 50% success rate with a fair number of off center holes in the plugs. Those little drills tend to wander when starting the hole and bend enough in the leather that the holes wander to the side. The plugs still occasionally spun even with a light feed on the drill. Drilling from one side, flipping it over and drilling from the other side helped a little, along with a light pecking feed but it was slow and the success rate still was no better than 50%. What worked was to make a drill guide to center the drill and compress the leather from the top. I used a 3/8" dia cylindrical piece of aluminum with a short section at one end slightly smaller in diameter than the hole in the wooden "vise" and a hole through this guide to center the #52 drill. In practice, I put a clamp to hold the wooden vise closed, and with my hand I firmly push the drill guide down on the plug in the wooden clamp and then slowly drill through the bead. The drill stays pretty well centered and I don't think the plugs are spinning at all. There is a little tear out at the far end but that can be nipped off with wire cutters or a razor blade if you want. It would probably be lessened if I slowed the rate at which I advanced the drill bit. How do you make beads?
  11. I'm not on Instagram and am hesitant to have yet another company tracking my viewing in order to sell me stuff. Can you post the photos here?
  12. I had initially thought I'd need to purchase a whole skin in order to do all the valves but I did a quick calculation and I think a 6x12" (15x30 cm) piece would do it. If all the pads were .625" (16mm) in diameter, I could get between 160 and 170 pads from that sheet, assuming each circle touched. Not all pads are 16 mm, some are 14 mm and a few seem to be 15 mm so I should be able to get more than 160 out of a single sheet.
  13. What characteristics of the felt are important for the pads? Is there a specific felt that you look for? The felt I have is of unknown origin, but since most of the felt I've seen in stores is made of polyester, that's probably what it is. I believe someone here at concertina.net mentioned that JoAnn Fabrics (U.S.) carries wool felt, but I haven't been there to confirm that it's available locally. With regard to the pneumatic leather, is there a reason for preferring the medium over the thicker leather?
  14. Well, my goose is cooked for the bowing / air valves since I have the chamois already, but even though it's over .030 thick I should have enough room for these. When you buy a skin, what thickness or thicknesses do you use for your pads?
  15. I'm considering repadding two instruments, and 56 button Edeophone Tenor Treble and a 48 button Wheatstone English treble. I wanted to try my hand at pad making for my Edeophone's bowing / air valve because it was leaking terribly. This is intended to be a quick experiment so I bought a chamois (.032-.036" thick), a piece of poster board (.017" thick) and have some craft felt of unknown parentage that's about .080" / 2mm thick. Having said that I've also been doing a little looking on this site to find the proper materials. I live about 2 hours from Columbia organ supply so I could run down there and pick the skin myself, but what to buy. Here are my choices at Columbia: https://www.columbiaorgan.com/columbia-leather-home/products/leather-skins/#valve_leather My guess is that the first item in the list CPL Columbia Pneumatic Leather is the type I need, but it comes in different thicknesses. Thin, about .011" thick, Medium, about .015" thick, Heavy, about .019" thick, Extra Heavy, about .024" thick and Valve leather about .030" thick. Is this the right leather? What thickness are you using? I know from some of the posts here that people have gotten away with using chamois from the auto parts store, and in David Pierceall's case, an old leather coat. A skin would cost me $60 to $90 US dollars, so I don't want to buy something I don't really need. Is there a noticeable difference in air tightness between an auto parts chamois and pneumatic leather? Lets deal with the leather first. I also have questions about the felt, card, sampers and beads that I'll ask when I see your thoughts on the leather.
  16. I have not done this, but I would think that if you're careful, you could use the existing end and its pad board as your template and drill directly into the new wood template. Just don't drill the existing button holes larger or tear out the felt. Maybe use a drill that is a little under size, but can easily be centered visually. Wire size drills (number drills) would be your friend here because they change in increments of only a few thousandths of an inch. I'm watching your thread with interest because I'm contemplating repadding a couple of instruments and may face the same challenge.
  17. I needed to make a pad tester too. I wanted the tube to fit into the hole so I'd know I was relatively centered. The smallest holes are the oval ones at .290" x .430" [ 7.5 x 11 mm] so I needed a tube that was 1/4" OD. I had a six inch piece of 1/4" brake line ( a generic commodity available at any auto parts store) lying around so half of that became the tube. The gasket support was a piece of 5/8" dia. aluminum that I cut to 1/2" length. I epoxied those two pieces together and used some 1/16" neoprene sheet (the remains of a tub & shower liner) for the gasket. It works. I have not had time to test all of the pads, but did discover that a major leak was the left end's bowing valve / air valve - more so than the leaks above that I had spotted with the light. Knowing that I would need at least one pad - the bowing valve pad - I bought a chamois and a piece of poster board at WalMart. The poster board is about .017" thick and I picked the thickest chamois I could spot visually in the store. The chamois measures from .032 to .036 thick. I have some felt of unknown type that measures approximately .080 (about 2mm) thick. It's hard to measure the felt because it compresses so easily. Now, none of these materials is optimum, but I wanted to keep moving on my air leak work and local sourcing is relatively inexpensive. I will start another thread on pad materials rather than changing the subject of this discussion.
  18. Here is a photo of the pad leak from the right side. Although I've shrunken the file size, I apparently am at the limit for amount of photos I can upload to this post. If the leather bead weren't glued to the arm I might be able to slide the pad a little to better cover the hole.
  19. Here's where I am at this point. I put two sheets of printer paper between the action box and bellows on each end and tried the drop test. It again took about 10 to 12 seconds to finish. I can feel one tiny spot of air coming from the bellows but can't spot it when I put a light inside, so I'm not entirely sure at this point where the bellows lead is. Although less than optimum, I'm not sure how significant it is since I did the drop test on my Aeola, which to me plays pretty well and the Aeola also has about a 10-12 second drop time. When I find the exact location, I'll repair it, but it's not the main leak. Next I did as David suggested and carefully took the top off the action box and shone a light through the holes from the bellows side. I found three pads that were misaligned. There may be other pads that are leaking but I need to figure out how to make the tester that Theo illustrated. Here's the first leak. You can see a tiny crescent of light along the outer edge of the pad hole. Here's the 2nd leaking pad on the left side. And here's the left end's offending pads with the green dots. The ring of leather (I'm forgetting the name) is glued to the arms or I'd try sliding the pads to try and cover the holes better. I'll illustrate the single leak on the right side in a follow up post in case the appearance of the leak suggests a specfic remedy other than the first two.
  20. Thanks to both of you for your experience and advice. Since I have a lathe I can make the pad testing devices illustrated. What material is on the flange at the end of the tube to seal it against the pad board? Not being "in the trade" I don't have spare pneumatic leather on hand as a seal so I'm trying to figure out what else I could use. I may have some 1/16" neoprene or old cork sheeting somewhere among my automotive repair scraps but I don't know if either would seal well without screw type pressure to hold the "gasket" in place. I may have further questions as I try out the other suggestions.
  21. My Edeophone has never had a particularly good air seal. A "drop test" takes all of 10 seconds. The bellows looks good although I haven't inserted a light bulb inside and looked for pin holes. The valves look pretty straight. I can put my lips to some of the air holes and the pads don't seem particularly leaky although they're certainly not air tight. The one thing that's really different compared to my responsive and air tight Aeola is that the Edeophone's reed pan pulls out of the bellows really easily. I can slip a .015" feeler gage between the reed pan and the bellows gasket for about half of its circumference, mostly in the area of the larger reeds. It's not hard to move the reed pan a little side to side by pushing it. I can slip an .008" feeler gage pretty much the whole way around the periphery, but I think the reed pan is sliding a little bit when I insert the shim. From reading here, it seems the approach is to carefully pry up the chamois along part of the perimeter and put a strip of .008 card stock behind the chamois and try it rather than replacing the chamois. The 3x5" index cards I have are .006 to .008" thick depending on the card. I'm looking for advice from those who have done this. Is there a better way to look for air leaks or something I've overlooked as the source before I try shimming? How to lift the chamois without tearing it? Should I drip or paint a little water at the edge of the chamois and pry up or keep water away from the chamois entirely? How much of the periphery to lift and shim? Can I just shim one half of it and let that push the reed pan closer to the opposite side? Do I put a double thickness of shims on one half and no shims on the other side of the bellows gasket or put the same size shims the whole way around the periphery? I was planning on gluing things with liquid hide glue (in the brown plastic bottle). Another reversible alternative glue is washable "school glue", a clear glue unlike PVA. Are either of those glues acceptable?
  22. Thanks,but not quite what I'm looking for. I'm looking for a staff labled like the one below, but with the C' C'' system that I see used when citing the range of a concertina https://www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/musical-notes-names-staff-treble-clef-1476389549
  23. I must not be using the right search terms. I periodically see references to c' or c'' but I need a chart to show me where they are on the music staff. Does anybody have a link to a chart showing note names on the staff using the c' a' a'' system? Is c' the same as middle c?
  24. Periodically I browse the concertinas at the Buttonbox to see what they have. Boy is the supply down. I'm sure it's related to the pandemic but I wonder whether it's due to more people buying them since they have time to play or whether it's due to some other business effect.
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