rcr27
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Posts
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Posts posted by rcr27
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Best thing to do as a beginner is to choose a cheap 20 key lachenal (or other make) in good original condition that only needs the basic renovation (repad, revalve and retune) so that if anything goes wrong, you’re not ruining what could be a potentially good player.
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Dowright, would a Lachenal Anglo No. 172103 date of 1891 approximately?
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39 minutes ago, robert stewart said:
Does that look like a metal end plate on the LHS? And do some of the other pics show a metal edge on the LHS?
No, not at all, it was just a light reflection.
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Now sold
Selling a Lachenal C/G 30-key rosewood Lachenal that I bought as a restoration project but due to the lack of time that I have right now it has to go. The serial number is 160470. It’s in good original condition (unrestored) and shouldn’t be a difficult task to restore because it hasn’t been messed with before, all the original parts are there. It has been stored in its wooden case unplayed for a long time but it’s still playable.
The asking price is £1000 or very nearest offer. Will also be advertised on ebay, but I’d much rather sell through this forum and make a small donation. Shipping is available at £20 within the UK.
For more information please message me.
Thanks
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Thanks that sounds more accurate.
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Thanks, all the buttons have a similar pressure (apart from one or two) but I’d like to make sure they’re all even.
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21 minutes ago, DDF said:
Try popping it on your kitchen scales then if you depress the key it will show you the pressure you are exerting.
Thanks, sounds easy, didn’t think about that.
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What device/gauge is recommended to check the key pressure? (and how?) How should any adjustments be made? My springs (brass I believe) are all in good condition but one particular key has a significantly lower pressure than the others. It’s a Lachenal non-riveted action.
Thanks in advance
Roger
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Thanks for the tips, it makes sense however wouldn’t the glue add a little extra height once dry?
Also, how thick does the bar (bending tool) has to be? Would a stainless steel ruler work?
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Ok I get it now, thanks very much! yes I saw the diagram on the manual but I didn’t quite understand it; it makes sense now. Its time to find a flat steel bar now..
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Would anyone kindly share a photo of their bending tool used to bend the lever arms in order to adjust key height, and how exactly is it used? Also, what’s optimum key height above the action plate (when released) for an anglo concertina?
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6 hours ago, Sprunghub said:
RCR, pretty good detective work if you were looking at the previous owner and party who had the restoration work carried out at their behest, but not the current one, hence I do not live ( or have ever lived in Spalding ) and have not advertised it previously and that is not my 'thread' ?.
A little knowledge as they say....
Mere coincidence that 2 55-key crane duets popped up almost at the same time; I was just searching information about the model and found this.
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Don’t know the seller but I know that this particular concertina (389) was sold unrestored back in 2011: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/early-lachenal-cranes-duet-concertina-161598198
Browsing on the internet I found that the seller is a member of this forum though he hasn’t been active since November
And he also advertised it on ebay back in November 2016: https://picclick.co.uk/LACHENAL-CRANE-DUET-CONCERTINA-No-389-55-232140867616.html
and this other website: https://abyhom.co.uk/details/?id=22441&cate=music
I just acquired the exact same 55-key new model very recently (though mine is labelled “The Triumph” No.3990 and is unrestored) and is an absolute joy of an instrument.
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Does this work for steel reeds too?
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Last week I received my spares that I ordered back in January
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I’m wondering if someone has ever made an accordion with concertina reeds? That’d be interesting to hear.
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Looks nice! Where can I get that hand strap screw shown on the 2nd photo?
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It was definitely the wrecked wad punch that was causing the problem. Just gave it a good sharp with the dremel and happy days!
(Photo shows the original ones, dodgy attempt, and final attempt). I’m wondering if pads shrink with age?
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1 hour ago, Theo said:
I use a set of punches I made to fit into a small hand press.
Is that the eyelet machine? I have bought that hand press as well with the purpose of making pads instead of using a mallet but I can’t quite find the right way of doing so.
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45 minutes ago, W3DW said:
Rather than using a hammer, put the punch to the card and rotate it to cut through.
I tried that but I find it to be a lot harder and less precise in my opinion.
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It’s probably that the punch is not sharp enough, any ideas on how to sharpen it? Only few of my pads have come out well round, the rest tend to delaminate on the edges. I bought some pads from ebay but they are too big for my concertina hence I’m trying to make my own. I found that the card used on these is a lot stronger than the card I’m using, could that be the problem as well?
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On 4/6/2020 at 1:21 PM, Theo said:
I use 600g art paper.
Where can I find one like that online? Is there any on ebay? I can never get a perfect circle with the card that I’m using... I use a wad punch and a steel mallet, and punch against wood. The felt and the leather come out well in shape but the card just looks horrible on the edges.
Lachenal anglo baffles
in Instrument Construction & Repair
Posted
I have a Rosewood Lachenal Anglo No. 178102 (not sure if the last number is 2, 3 or 8.) It doesn’t have leather baffles but it has a red netting instead, don’t know if this is original. Anyway, I want to replace this with leather baffles, my question is what type of leather was/is used for this? Was it originally red for the anglos of this period?
(My concertina is the same model as the photo below)