refinishing ends

[shelly0312]

I am considering refinishing the wood ends on my Lachenal EC. I have picked up over the years here on c.net to be sure to keep the rest of the concertina "guts" stable--that the action box in particular is prone to warping when it is not married to its ends. So, what's the big deal--I'm thinking--just sandwich it between two stable known flat planes....oh, the keys are still sticking up in the middle! So you do need to have maybe stable MDF with the key area cut out? And apply equal pressure all around the edge of the action box (like eight little clamps-one for each side)? I don't think these keys are bushed in the key holes--could I putty or clay those holes to protect them from the finish dripping in? And, now I realize there is a second edge on the action box. So, while it is in its "keep it flat jig" I need to also refinish that edge so it matches the top? Finally, what is the most durable finish to apply? shellac, varnish, epoxy ??? I'm not a woodworker per sec--but I can follow directions! Thanks for help and suggestions. I do have my trusty "Concertina Maintenance Manual" on hand also. Michelle

[malcolmbebb]

My similar plans are on hold for the moment, but I think removing the keys would be a good start . You might want to clean and maybe refinish the red/black keys while you're doing it.

I plan to use shellac/french polish. I have asked similar questions here, so you might have a look at my profile for similar threads. Mine is Anglo, I'm not sure if ECs are more prone to warping. It will have new pads and valves etc fitted as well.

 

I have one box with new ends, I will strip the finish from the sides also. I might clamp the bottom half of the action chamber between two flat pieces of wood, and will aim to keep it in a stable medium humidity environment. The top will be taken off while I'm working on it. Undecided whether to finish the sides separately from the top with the two halves clamped together.

[apprenticeOF]

I applied Dave E.'s suggestion of simply placing the components in a sealed plastic bag while refinishing, or doing extended work. No resulting problems with a 1920's Lachenal EC.

 

I did have a problem with warped reed pans in a "barn stored" earlier Lachenal that came to me that way - bad enough that most of the support blocks had been broken off, and the warp would not allow closing up of the concertina without undue pressure on the end bolts. I resolved that by making two ventilating hexes of 1" plywood (actually laminated scraps of 1/2") lined with felt, and spring clamping over the reed pans. The spring clamps don't apply excessive pressure and adjust as the pan slowly flattens out. I placed the clamped assembly near a window (slightly opened) and left for a couple of days. Surprisingly, this took out the bulk of the warp, and even more surprisingly the problem has not returned. Could be just luck as I've only done this once.

 

As this worked in an extreme case, I confidently just follow Dave's advice on the plastic bags, knowing I have a fall back - but the bags always seem to do the trick anyway.