Jump to content

Andy Holder

Members
  • Posts

    246
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Andy Holder

  1. I would have said mahogany, but the colour of the polish can be very misleading. I may be wrong, but I doubt they would have used Oak, the grain is quite open and liable to split, in thin sections. A picture of the inside would be much more revealing. I think most of the Mahogany of that period would have been French and quite brown. Brazilian Mahogany would be more orange in colour so you'll have to be careful finding a bit that's the right colour for repairs.

    Here's a Mahogany end from a Lachenal, the inside is a lovely brown colour, the outside - not nice.

     

    Outside of a Lachenal 20 button Anglo

     

    Andy

  2. Please forgive me if this is slightly out of order but there isn't a sort of Irish, charisma, Jeffries thing going on here is there?

    Jeffries instruments seem to fetch far more Euros than they are worth in GBP lately. I wonder whether it isn't a little bit competitive in Ireland now?

    Andy.

  3. The kit arrived yesterday and we picked it up from the post office today. I can't wait to start assembling it, but have to get Christmas and New Year out of the way first.

    I'm thinking of keeping a photo journal to document the process of building the kit and will surely post when complete (if I manage it!).

    I can't recommend Concertina Connection enough. Karen and Wim Wakker had this delivered to me with custom bellows in less than half the time originally indicated. I hope I can do them justice by building the instrument!

     

    It sounds like just the sort of project for a Christmas holiday! I'm interested to know what the reeds are in the kit?

    Andy.

  4. Interestingly, I offered to meet him with cash and this is the reply:

     

    Hello,

    The buy it now price including shipping and insurance is 1000.00 GBP ! Transaction will be handled by ebay, so we can both be protected and able to exchange feedback after transaction is successfully closed! I will offer a 5 day inspection period for the concertina, so if by any reason you are not satisfied with it, you can return it against a full refund! If you do want it, just please email me your full name and address and I will start the transaction under ebay. You will be after contacted by them with further instructions on how to complete this sale. I live in Dundee.

    Thanks,

  5. And gone again.

    I wonder why eBay seems unable to catch these before they go live. Can we really be the only means they have of recognizing the appearance of the same photo file over and over again?

     

    I think what happens is that the listings and ebay seller are genuine, then he comes along and hacks them, inserting his rather garish listings and bit of text in amongst the genuine listings. The latest one is a corker! Genuine listings for dresses and fashion from the USA and then a load of diggers and machinery in between! His also all start at £22. Crazy!

  6. Wow, such a lot of information. Thanks guys. Here's the reed pan. The chambers are the same depth and the reeds are riveted, however, it does have chamber dividers. Does this give more of a clue? I've found the number 20113 in two places so I'm guessing that must be the S/N. I read the ledger as being 13 Dec 1882, Rosewood polished 48 button.

     

    Wheatstone-16

     

    Darn, I can't get the photos to show, it just appears as a link. How do I get the actual image to appear?

     

    Andy

  7. My gamble of an eBay purchase has arrived today, and is a Wheatstone! The seller really didn't know what he had, but then neither did I.

     

    It certainly needs new bellows, though I may be able to patch the current ones up to make it playable for now. Most of the keys seem sound, though a couple are not very springy. The wood is good.

     

    First job is to open it up tonight. I'm going to take photos and see what condition the reeds are in - I don't even know if they're steel or brass yet!

     

    I expect I'll be on the repairs thread a lot, and the history one too, but right now I'm just so chuffed to have snagged what I *think* is an absolute bargain.

     

    I just hope I don't get a nasty surprise inside!

     

    On a side point, the Wheatstone label is very dirty - you can barely make out the name. Anyone got any suggestions for cleaning it up a bit. I want to show off!

     

    Well done Betty. Exciting stuff! You probably already know, but in case not, the Wheatstone production and sales ledgers held by the Horniman museum are online. http://www.horniman.info/

    I've just got myself a Wheatstone at auction too, so I'm in the same stage of excitement. Theo and Geoff helped me identify mine to December 13th 1882! It only has a pencil written serial number inside.

    Good luck with it all.

    Andy

  8. I certainly would not attempt to re-create a serial number label. If selling the instrument I would simply provide the information you have given here and let a buyer make their own judgement.

     

    I think you're probably right Theo. I must admit, the forensic science has proved part of the fascination for me. Those Horniman ledgers are amazing! I made wooden plate racks for 10 years of my life and I wish now we'd kept such detailed sales books!

  9. As the only place where the serial number would have been (Chris Algar often says "I cannot find a number anywhere on this instrument") on a 19th century concertina like this, I cannot see any objection to re-creating a facsimile of an original Paper label, after all, you have the number. And while you are at it, why not a Wheatstone " Conduit st." label for the right hand side.

     

    I agree Geoff, but only as far as the makers name. I don't think I would put a serial number label in, because the only thing I have seen is a pencil written number.

  10. Thanks again Theo and Geoff. I'm amazed if that is the date, judging from the condition, however, I can't see why else that number would be there. The hard case is post 1905 but I suppose it would have been possible to buy the case from Wheatstone at a later date, would it?

    Quite a relief to know that I haven't bought a pup.

     

    What is your ethical position on re-printing an oval label to fit in the end? <_<

    Andrew

  11. The 27 is a batch number, used to keep all the parts of one instrument together during manufacturing. It is not unheard of to find Wheatstones with no serial number.

     

    Thank you for that Theo. Do you think it's safe to sell it as a Wheatstone? Does the riveted action and fretwork mean that it definitely can't be a Lachenal?

    I would hate to sell it in good faith as a Wheatstone and then have someone come back in disappointment!

    Cheers

    Andrew.

  12. OK--I am ready to sell the Lachenal I rescued from antique store about a year ago. I have looked for comparables to establish a minimum on e-bay and will accept any ideas here. It is a 20 button C-G anglo with steel reeds. I paid $480 for repairs (PDF of the list available on request), which were done by Mike Crowe of Keys and Squeeze in Illinois. What are your thoughts on this? Although I like to play it, I prefer my Wheatstone and have no real need for this instrument, although it has a very sweet voice. So, if you see it on e-bay, you may recognize it from this post...Wish me luck!

     

    p.s. The schmuck who sent me the scam offer need not write to me again.

     

     

    Hi Cassie. Sorry to bring you down but I've just recently bought a 20 button Anglo for £117 and will be refurbing it and selling it for around £300 ($350) The 2 row Anglos don't seem to fetch big prices.

    Andrew

  13. Hi all. I have just collected a Concertina which I bought in Crow's auction last week. It was listed as a Wheatstone and it is certainly in a Wheatstone hard case. The Wheatstone label in the case has the address West Street so it is post 1905. The instrument looks like a later one and is in fairly good condition. It has a riveted action and either Beech or Sycamore reed pans. Round ended reed frames with steel reeds. The fretwork is Wheatstone - identical. However, the only serial number in the entire instrument is 27. The RH reedpan is stamped with R 27 and the LH reedpan is stamped with L 27. There is a number 20113 written in pencil. I've looked through the Horniman ledgers and instruments of this age should be up in the 20,000 range. Were there any exact Wheatstone copies made by others? Is it a Wheatstone???

    Thanks for any help

    Andrew

    " data-controller="core.front.core.autosizeiframe" data-embedId='e72a9b03e38c9c239947182bdc2bc658' allowfullscreen=''> " data-controller="core.front.core.autosizeiframe" data-embedId='e65793b3a8c3b0c83a3952b583622440' allowfullscreen=''>

     

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/ash2020/sets/72157628310031069/

     

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/ash2020/sets/72157628310031069/

  14. Helle all.

    I'm just embarking on making my first instrument, a 3 row anglo. I've nearly finished the bellows (I figured I'd start with one of the hard bits first). I have been using hide glue, with all its accompanying smells and difficulties. I've now started thinking, my wife's vegetarian, my daughter's vegetarian, I'm hovering on the brink of being vegetarian, my workshop's in the house and this stuff stinks! Does anyone know of any serious, sophisticated 21st century adhesives that would do the job (I don't mean PVA!)

    Are Aliphatics too rigid? Does Cascamite, which is an extremely brittle glue, like hide glue, behave in the same way? What about modified polymers? Any ideas? I'm starting to see the faces of the terrified animals as they file into the abbatoir!

    Thanks

    Andy.

     

    Dear Andy:

     

    Have you considered what bookbinders call a 'mix'? PVA is terrifically handy for building boxes because it sets quickly, is relatively flexible and is very strong. But ... it stains/alters leather, sets too quickly for leather work, and doesn't 'breath'. Wheat paste was used for generations in bookbinding. Currently, rice paste is preferred (in some circles). But for maximum flexibility, working time, lack of toxicity and ease of use, you would be hard pressed to improve on 'mix'. Loosely speaking, 'mix' is 55% PVA / 45% paste (either wheat or rice). But there are plenty of variations (not to mention opinions) in either direction. Some people think you should never ever go over 40% paste. Some of us play with 50/50 or even (gasp) 40/60 proportions. And the world hasn't ended. Yet.

     

    Paste can be mixed in small proportions in either a pot on the cooker or in the microwave. It has a very definite shelf life and so does the mix when mixed with PVA. So only make as much as you need. (Unless you are fond of culturing green furry growths.) But it is inexpensive, vegetarian and very non-smelly.

     

    Where are you located? I would be happy to send you 1/2 cup of both wheat and rice starch with preparation instructions if you like.

     

    Let me know,

     

     

    Lucy in Rhode Island

    Hi Lucy. That's interesting, I never thought of a mixture. I don't like neat PVA because of my woodworking experiences with it. However, you seem to have got the answer. I'm in the UK so I don't think your kind offer of a cupful would work :rolleyes: Could you give me a bit more detail about what to go for. Thanks.

    Andy, SW England, near Stonehenge (they used good glue!)

  15. And reappeared here

    And now that one has also been removed.

     

    At least they take it seriously now. The one that caught me a few years ago also caught 40 other people, at £600 a time! We had addresses, bank details, names, and yet neither the police nor eBay did anything about it.

    I think their software is much better at picking up aliases now.

  16. A saw that one as well Andy, but given that it was difficult to tell whether it was an Anglo or English from the auctioneer's photo, I gave it a very swift swerve at well below the selling price.

     

    If it was Chris who was the low bidder, then maybe it's even worth what you paid! (mind you, you could always learn to play the uke - or the German accordion!)

     

    Alex West

     

     

    Hi Alex. I must admit it was a bit of a panic move, probably if I'd thought longer I wouldn't have done it. I'm just hoping it's not another English. I've already got 2 in Salvation Army tuning! Perhaps I can somehow stir up a Ukelele revival and start a stash of them!

    Cheers.

  17. I just bought a Wheatstone from Crows Auctioneers in Dorking. Trouble is, I got carried away and haven't even seen it, apart from a small picture of the lot. It's clearly an old one, so not a Mayfair. I will have my fingers crossed until Wednesday, when I collect it. I just beat a phone bidder, who I guess might have been Chris Algar. Whoever it was, I hope they knew more about it than I did. It was a fairly stupid move and I will either be "over the moon" or "sick as a parrot" as they say in footballing circles.

    Anybody want 2 ukeleles that came with it?

    Andy

  18. Saw that one today also. Most suspicious part of the advert, IMO, is that the seller will NOT be selling via the bidding, just at the unofficial "BUY-IT-NOW" price posted. Essentially they appear to be using e-bay as an advertizing service (which, as far as I know is against e-bay policy). I suspect the intent is to sell the item outside e-bay and avoid their fees (taxes, VAT...). Needless to say, e-bay takes a rather dim view of this type of sale (and I'm surprised that no one has informed e-bay as yet and had the ad pulled). Looking at the sellers other items it appears that they usually only sell relatively lower cost fishing items. Possibly an account hijack. I wouldn't touch this one with a 10' pole, and I've made a lot of e-bay purchases (including a car).

     

    I've just reported it. It is almost certainly a hijacked account. Not very clever though, as the real account seems to be 99% fishing gear. I got taken for £600 on a scam electrical tester from what looked like a perfectly legitimate account. It's also not very clever because specialist items like concertinas are certain to attract people who know all about them, its a bit different with plasma tvs and cameras, which they usually go for.

    I'm sure it'll disappear soon.

    Andrew

  19. Hello.

     

    When I set concertina reeds, I usually refer to The Concertina Maintenance Manual by David Elliott. I bought it from David J. Leese.

     

    I wrote the article about setting reeds on my blog today, using a video and some pictures.

    http://irish.cocolog-nifty.com/flute_concertina/2011/10/setting-the-ree.html

    I hope you enjoy it!

     

    Cheers,

    Tomoyuki

    My blog : http://irish.cocolog-nifty.com/flute_concertina/

     

     

    Hi Tomo, love the blog. Excellent photos, thanks.

    Andy

  20. Jake,don't let people put you off, its not rocket science, have a go.

    Chris

     

     

    I agree totally Jake. I certainly don't agree with the "leave it to the experts" camp. There is no faster way of learning that just doing something. Can you imagine Charles Wheatstone or Louis Lachenal saying "ooer, I'd better not do that because I'm not an expert!"

     

    I spent 10 years doing state of the art optical physics in medical devices, despite having failed physics at school. I really believe that that the lack of a conventional training makes you more inventive and less concerned about what you "don't know" and "shouldn't do".

     

    One thing is for certain, it won't be long before you're an expert too! When you get to that stage, remember, encouragement of beginners is by far the best way.

     

    Now, what to do next? I think I might have a go at rocket science!

    Andy.

  21. I was watching Gardiner Houlgate online.

    If you go to http://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb you can bid live on the internet. It can be quite addictive though!

    Most auction houses now do internet bidding and searching so there's no chance of picking up a bargain because no-one else knows about it!

    In some ways you're likely to get a cheaper price on eBay because there's no buyer's premium. With an auction house you have to factor in 17-19% plus VAT on top of the hammer price. Plus, if it's a long way away, you'll probably pay an arm and a leg to have it packed and shipped. I was recently quoted £40 by Mailboxes to put a concertina in a box and deliver it to me from an auction. That means a £1,000 instrument may well cost you nearly £1,300 all in.

    Andy

×
×
  • Create New...