DDF
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Posts
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Joined
Posts posted by DDF
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Hi Matt,Probably not to far for you to pop down to Yeovil where Pittards are based.they have a large factory shop with hundreds of skins all graded so you can buy ones with scars or offcuts very reasonably.I was there last week and bought a half calf hide for cases but in the past I have bought quite a few nice goat skins and and they do nice £4 hide offcuts(or maybe they are samples) which are big enough for several sets of hand straps.Hope that is some help,David.
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If you down load the image onto a memory card /stick,cd or such like and take it to a print shop/ photo shop/library or any one with a reasonable laser printer I think you'll find the results can be pretty good and can be sealed for even more durability.But it does need to be a laser printer not inkjet.With ordinary paper inkjet printing tends to dye the paper whereas laser lays the printing medium on top of the paper more like a proper print.Not great for photos but not bad for labels etc. I drew some bellows papers last year and laser printed them in an office laser printer and was very pleased with the results.David.
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I just thought I would mention this cd which I received as a birthday gift.It is not the type of music that I would normally buy but having heard and enjoyed them on radio threes The Late Junction a while back I was glad to get this gift.They were in the Late Junction Studio live last week so there are some clips available for listening.Also plenty on Youtube.David.
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I expect it has been measured across the corners.David.
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I just thought this may be of interest to someone thinking of making a leather case or wanting to do a repair to an old one.They look to be good quality, but if anyone wants more details I have just ordered one and would be happy to give my impression when I receive it.Wishing you all a wonderful 2016.David.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231353595923?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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If you have access to a lathe I have found a reasonable way to make levers is with a slitting saw.I measure the cuts with the topslide dial and make the final centre cuts with a scroll saw then tidy up with filing.The posts are better made from half hard or hard brass then a bit of tapping in doesn't seem to effect them.David.
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There at the moment four editions on their player.
http://www.tg4.ie/en/player/home/?pid=4626567972001&title=Hup&series=Hup
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Excuse an EC player straying into Anglo territory, but do folks think those ends are original to the rest of the box? To me they resemble copies of Crabb type patterns but look a little heavy handed and are completely flat. Replacements for damaged wooden ends or an attempt in the past to 'enhance' the box?
I would think it always had metal ends of some sort as the side wooden parts don't appear to be "split"or made in two parts.There seem to be quite a few metal ended concertinas this age without the tops crimped so its probably how it was made.David.
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I think they are popular in south Africa?David.
http://manningsmusicals.co.uk/concertina/40-key-cg-anglo-concertina-by-crabb-1972/
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Les, check out Chris Sherburn.When I saw him a few years back he was playing good irish music and only had four folds on his Wheatstone anglo if memory serves me correctly.David.
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Hmmm. I'd be struggling to see nearly $2k worth of value in this condition, but then maybe the reeds are fantastic....maybe....
My suspicion is that it might have been a wooden ended Jones originally, but with replacement metal ends made and fitted (almost!) at some point in its life.
At what point it became a "C Jeffries" is anyone's guess.
It would be interesting to see inside it if anybody here bought it.I also thought it might have started off as a Jones .When I blew up the pictures I thought I might have be looking at Jones type lever post.
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...if almost 4000 Pound for an unrestored Jeffries can be regarded as "wholesale"!
Maybe that one wasn't bought by a dealer?
Maybe it wasn't unrestored.http://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=17995
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Hello Pete,if you happen to have more time than sense you could always try something I did recently.I have had a couple of those 39 key McCanns around for years and have often thought of trying to do something with them other than let them get split up for reeds.Earlier this year I spent many a happy hour tinkering with the identical model to yours and ended up with this.
I learnt a lot but wouldn't really recommend it as the end result still only has quite low grade Lachenal reeds.Regards David. -
My thumb screws are cut from a single brass off cut (found at engineering works, or on ebay, 'brass rod').
I have made housings to hold the die in the tailstock and press against the rod, held in the chuck, when spun down to size, after which I knurl the head. Holes are also tapped by the same method when I make the nuts to be seated in the casing under the straps. These nuts are not off centre, rather they pressfit and a piece of 1 mm brass rod 3/8th long is run through their casing and the concertina end and snibbed off.
All my concertina screws are made in the same manner, driving them through one of these dies held in the tail stock. I attempted to forward a photo but have used up all my allowance. If interested send an email and I will forward. When I repair thumb screws I make new ones and nuts using M3 x50 thread
David
I made a few of the Linota style thumbscrews recently .I used the same process except I used some scrap 16mm stainless steel bar instead of nickel.The original nickel ones always suffer with a verdigris build up which the s/s ones shouldn't.David.
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I can't see if you have got the topslide set over @ half the thread angle.If not it would be worth a try as you will only then be cutting on one side of the tool so there is a bit less drag as you feed in on the topslide.You could also make a temporary back steady from hard wood and clamp it to the cross slide put a vee notch in at centre height and keep it against the rear of the job. Brass or nickel would be easier brazing rod is rather hard and springy.Best of luck David.
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Wheatstone made a number of 36-button Linotas.
Oh.
Can you point me to a copy of the layout?
No but the one I currently have at my place has:
(working C row/G row/Accidental row, O/I) Right hand is G#/A#, G/F, C#/F#. Left hand is G#/F, C#/A#, C#/F# Left hand C#s are different octaves.
I think mine is RH G#5/A#5,G6/F6,C#5/D#5. LH G#4/Bb4,C#5/F4,C#4/Bb3.There seems to be a bit of variety there?David.
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Is this one of those wooden ended Jeffries or is my imagination running wild? I think I remember some discussion on here a while back .Nice project if the reeds are ok.
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PLEASE HELP, this has been on a shelf in my nans for as long as i can remember, i think its a Lachenal but i have no knowledge at all really about these things, i have it listed on ebay as we speak and i have received more messages for this in 1 day than anything i have ever listed, if someone could please enlighten me on the origins i would be greatfull or even better make me an offer to buy!
Also i have attached a photo of a Lachenal that looks very similar!
Please check the other topics you started for information.David.
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Looks like a "Shire"english .Retailed at £250 in 1978.
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Thanks Geoff.
Roger, I did have a search around but came up blank so came to the font of concertina knowledge where fortunately for me, Geoff was able to oblige.
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Can anybody point me in the direction of a chart/button layout for 30 or more buttons in Ab/Eb? Thanks very much if you can.David.
Leather Supplier In The Uk
in Instrument Construction & Repair
Posted
I have no particular connection with Pittards but the prices seem to me very reasonable if you want to practice making bellows.They do a lot of glove leather so if you take along a vernier gauge there is a pretty good chance of finding what you need.I think I paid £19 per skin for B grade.One skin will provide plenty of material for a set of seven fold anglo bellows.As Steve say you'll have to do your own skiving/paring.David.