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Miriam

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  1. Yes, it is in New Harmony, Indiana. On the Wabash River, about 25 miles from Evansville, IN.
  2. The New Harmony Music Festival and School in New Harmony blends trad, improv, and classical music in a week of classes, sessions and concerts in July. It's not for any specific instrument but I took classes there last summer with Patrick Ourceau (who just started learning the concertina!) and others and it was great. www.newharmonymusicfest.com
  3. Malcolm, It looks like there are some steel reeds and some brass. As for figures, perhaps some disinterested soul(s) would be kind enough to help with figuring that out. Miriam
  4. Hi Malcolm, I did try to post the pictures but I got a message that the files were too big. Miriam
  5. I have two Lachenal anglos for sale, which need to be restored or could be used for parts. I was going to restore them myself, but they became "unfinished projects" so I would like to pass them on to someone who can use them. One is a 30-button (serial # 183195) and the other a 20-button (#101842). The wooden parts and the bellows on both instruments look pretty decent, and they both make sound. I will consider all reasonable offers, and I can send pictures if you send me your email address.
  6. "hand strap (the belt buckle type)" would make it an anglo. Yes, it's an anglo. 30 buttons, I assume? It's probably worth more than a Mayfair English, but it's still hard to say. I've seen these go for quite a range of prices on eBay. I suspect that the higher prices were the result of bidding wars by people who didn't realize that Mayfairs have accordion reeds and are not normal Wheatstones. These don't come on the market often enough to have a "standard" price. If it's a good player, $1000 sounds like a reasonable asking price to me, especially if you get the handstrap replaced or properly repaired first. But you may have to settle for less. 30 buttons, that's right. Thanks, Daniel. I didn't know whether it would appreciate or depreciate in the time I've had it. Meanwhile, I'll see about getting the handstrap gadget replaced or repaired.
  7. "hand strap (the belt buckle type)" would make it an anglo. Yes, it's an anglo.
  8. I am selling my Mayfair (for those not familiar, Wheatsstone made an "economical" instrument in the 1950's, and that's what this is), which I bought from the Button Box for $1000 six years ago. It's served me really well but I'm upgrading. It plays quite well though the leather and the case have gotten a little worn since I've had it. One of the little metal gadgets that keeps the hand strap (the belt buckle type)at the size you want it is broken but I've rigged it up so it works for my hand. Can anyone suggest a fair price based on this information? I'll be at Catskill Irish Arts Week if anyone would like to see it. I think it's a fine instrument for a beginning player. Thanks! Miriam
  9. Thank you, everyone, for your interesting, thoughtful, and humorous replies! Whoever said that a visit to the museum would be a good idea, had a good idea. I am a piano technician, and thought that it might be fun to learn how to fix the instrument I actually play, the concertina. Meanwhile, keep looking for those buttons, Bruce-- the basement is finally warming up. Miriam
  10. I was wondering if anyone had heard of the accordian repair school (it includes concertinas!) in Superior, Wisconsin. What do you know about it's reputation? Thanks!
  11. Dave, I didn't know the reed pan should be crowned--oops, I did meant convex! In answer to your questions: The left side is pretty good... it's the right side that's the problem. You can hardly hear any of the real notes; instead when you push or draw on any key, or no keys at all, there is a uniform "chord" sound made up of many notes. The valves are hardly twisted or curled, though I'm not sure what degree of curling is OK. As you can tell, I'm a beginner but I'd like to tackle this. Miriam, its normal for reedpans to be a little 'crowned', that is the chamber side to appear to be a little convex, is this what you are describing? If so then it should not be a problem. So lets get mote specific: 1. Which side is the problem side? Left or Right?, or if both which is worst? and is it only in squeeze and not draw? 2. are there a group of keys (notes) which are effected? 3. with no keys pressed, if you pressurise the bellows can you hear somme notes sounding? I.e. in Squeeze mode, if you de-pressurise the bellows by pulling (no keys pressed) is the instrument silent? please do not force anything for these two tests. 4. Are the valves all curled and twisted away from the reed pan? Dave
  12. Hello Dave, Thanks so much for your quick reply and advice. No luck so far, but on closer inspection I realized that the reed pan is in fact a little bit concave-- when I checked it from the bottom side it's about 1/32" higher in the middle than on the sides. Could this be the cause of the problem? Happy Holidays to you, Miriam
  13. Hello-- I have a 20-button Lachenal I'd like to restore but I don't know where to start! The instrument's worst symptom is that when you play any of the buttons, you get chords and "ghost" notes. I followed Dave Elliot's suggestion to rough up the chamois gaskets to stop air leakage between the chambers and it seemed to help the left side, but the right side is as bad as ever. Should I replace the gaskets? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? The wood making up the reed chambers doesn't seem to be warped-- I checked it with a straight edge. I'd appreciate any suggestions-- thanks!
  14. Yes, like a VW, they suck air, but, unlike a VW, you don't need to crawl under one to work on the valves. Mike Thanks for the similes, guys! When I get my Lachenal to restore, I'll be sure to park the VW nearby.
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