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SteveS
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Posts posted by SteveS
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13 hours ago, Peter Smith said:
The air hole under in the metal plate is 23mm x 3 mm. Mark at Concertina Spares said the plate is laser cut. Maybe he would sell you just the plate.
I have one of these tuning bellows - I use a piece of masking tape to cover gaps when tuning smaller reeds.
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4 hours ago, Don Taylor said:
Wim dropped his midi concertina line because the buttons had a short lifetime.
Most electromechanical switches (buttons) are only designed for a few hundred or a few thousand button presses.
I developed my MIDI concertina back in early 1990s - I never used electromechanical switches for precisely this reason. I used optical sensors to detect the button movement - they worked well, but were a nightmare to set up since each sensor required its own circuitry. But since they had effectively no moving parts, they were good for many 100,000s of button presses.
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On 8/16/2019 at 2:26 PM, sleepymonk said:
I wonder if anyone has tried resting an end on each leg, and using leg muscles to control the bellows?! The ultimate in stability ..
This is exactly how I play the bass concertina.
It's impractical for my style of playing with my TT.
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I play EC with the left end resting on my left thigh.
I always use a very soft cloth (a yellow duster) between my clothes and concertina so as to try a mitigate any wear from rough fabrics to the bellows.
Incidentally, I have a couple of former band concertinas in the resto pile with wear to the bellows at points closest to the body - my theory is that they've been held against say a uniform whilst standing or marching which has subsequently worn the bellows.
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On 8/4/2019 at 4:48 PM, d.elliott said:
Equally, missing the spacing pillars and/ or omitting the card shims on top of the pillars can be just as destructive. I know that working out the depth of the pillar and the amount of shimming is a bit of a faff, but it is important.
Very true - conversely, I've seen too much shimming destroy an end.
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6 minutes ago, JimLucas said:
Indeed! I have seen an Aeola where the lack of the long screw (a result of a former "repair") resulted in the fretworked end being pulled apart.
The man who did the repair created a whole new end -- copying the original fretwork -- rather than try to put back together the pieces of the original end.
I have repaired a similarly damaged end, where for the lack of a long screw, the end was irretrievably damaged.
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Hi Robert
I've sent you a PM.
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Here's a previous article on the Linton system.
The left hand side has too few buttons for the Linton system, compared to the right - looks to me like the left is bass notes.
My suspicion is that this is a big Anglo.
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It's been well played too judging by the wear to the ends.
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Playing for dancing is good discipline - coordination with dancers, playing at the right rhythm and speed, and with the correct swing.
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I have found that glue alone does not adequately fill these kinds of cracks.
In the past I've used thin slivers of veneer to fill the gaps - glued into place using hide glue.
For rosewood I've used rosewood veneer, and for ebonised ends I've used pear veneer which I've then stained black.
I also consider refinishing the ends to make the repair nice and neat.
Sometimes, depending on the width of the crack, I've used a scalpel to open up the gaps so as to clean them and to make wide enough (approx. 0.6mm for modern veneers) for the sliver of veneer to fit in the gap.
Sometimes it's necessary to support the back of the repair with veneer, with the grain running at right angles to the grain of the end.
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23 minutes ago, steven r. arntson said:
Great material, excellent playing, and a wonderful arrangement! I've been recently interested in music written for the hardanger fiddle, and hadn't known of any concertina players who were doing this kind of thing--it's inspiring to hear it done so well. Thanks for posting this!
Many thanks.
I play almost exclusively Nordic music on concertina - especially for dance.
I'm hoping to play for dance at a festival in Sweden in a few weeks time.
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It's been a long time since my last posting. I played for dancing the other week, together with Gill Redmond on cello. This track also features my new Shruti box.
I used a Roland R-07 recorder on stage - ideally I'd like to have taken the feed from the mixer desk so as to get the Shruti box nicely in the mix.
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48 minutes ago, dpolshaw said:
Wayhay! Sorted ? Thanks Steve - Much appreciated.
glad it worked out
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20 minutes ago, Wolf Molkentin said:
is there any sense in replacing a simple wood screw with an insert nut without a retaining plate, just screwed into the wood as a first improving step for a simple 20b Anglo which is not sufficiently sealed by those wood screws any more?
There are several options here:
1 - cut out the offending bad wood and put new piece of wood in - something like sycamore - this will be at least as secure as the previous fittings - use wood screws
2 - use a bolt with a modern thread, make a retaining hole for the nut in the bellows frame, and securely glue in place the nut - the bolt may not match the remaining wood screws
3 - fashion a rectangular retaining plate, drill and tap it with a modern thread, cut a slot for it in the bellows frame and secure the retaining plate with small wood screws.
Personally though, I tend to shy away from using modern threaded bolts unless I'm replacing all bolts and retaining plates - which I've done on a few concertinas.
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3 hours ago, dpolshaw said:
Thanks, Steve. Let me make sure I have this right though. By the chamois do you mean the covering at the end of the bellows? Presumably from around the hole where I can see the end of the broken bolt and not from the bellows end. Is that right?
Yes - that cover is chamois leather - remove the reed pan - the chamois can be lifted from inside the bellows.
The chamois should be glued back when you complete the job.
You can try concertina-spares.com for an end bolt (and maybe its respective retainer plate).
The Concertina Maintenance Manual by Dave Elliot may help you (I don't have my copy to hand so can't check if this issue is covered).
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The end bolt is retained by a brass retainer plate which is usually screwed into the bellows frame.
To get at this retainer, lift the chamois at the broken bolt piece, then unscrew the 2 small screws securing the retaining plate.
Recommend that you try and source a replacement end bolt - threads may not have been standardised depending on when your 'tina was made, so you'll have to be careful getting a replacement end bolt with suitable matching thread - failure to do this might result in cross-threading and eventual possible failure of the retaining plate thread.
I once had a similar problem on a 'tina I restored, where 3-4 bolts had snapped off - I replaced all retaining plates and bolts with modern threaded equivalents.
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The Leader features an article about forthcoming concerts with Otto Smith - one of a handful of players of classical music on EC.
Here's a link to the article.
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5 hours ago, Stephen Selby said:
Which side of the pad leather (home-made pads) should face down over the hole: the smooth side or the nap side?
Always the smooth side
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Is the issue with all pads or just one or two. Try isolating the offending pads/holes by sticking Scotch tape over each hole and removing one pad/hole at a time.
I've had issues with a small nicks in the pad holes, or even splits, that have caused air leakage around the pads (not on a miniature however).
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Hi Wolf - nice baritone - I have one very similar to yours - mine is a 56 key.
I'm a big fan of New Model concertinas, and these baritones are great.
Mine also has a rivetted action.
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On 5/16/2019 at 6:57 PM, rcr27 said:
Just found the exact same listing now on eBay Italy, at 2600€. Tried to contact the seller and didnt get a response. Clearly a scam or someone with a hacked account since the only payment method is “direct bank transfer”. I wonder how eBay allows this... (the concertina does look beautiful though)
☝️This link looks weird as well
I too have my suspicions - I recall seeing it sell back in 2015 - and the pictures appear to be identical to back then.
I've written 3 times with no reply.
It's probably a scam.
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Interesting - I took delivery of a new Shruti box 2 weeks ago.
It's a 2 octave instrument in key of C - and fully chromatic.
I decided on a Shruti box to add another dimension to the Nordic music I play on concertina and for the various Scandinavian whistles I play.
Here's a link to the chap, Stefan Cartwright, who made mine.
And a link to a similar one being played.
I also use a foot pedal to operate my Shruti box.
So far I'm playing the Shruti box along with a few Swedish bagpipe tunes to great effect.
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The reason you can't watch the program in a geographic location outside of the UK is that the iPlayer recognises your IP as not being assigned to the UK.
Here's the way round this issue:
- install a VPN to your computer (I use NordVPN)
- once installed, start the VPN client and select a VPN server in UK (this will cause your IP to look like it's in UK)
- start the iPlayer and watch the program
However, the BBC may request that you confirm you have a TV license.
Hope this works.
concertinas in the movies
in General Concertina Discussion
Posted
Appears to be an EC.