d.elliott
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Posts posted by d.elliott
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I would like clearer photos, a pic of the serial number and a view of the bellows partially opened. please.
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On 9/29/2023 at 1:55 PM, fred v said:
A 4-48 tap is readily available in the US, just google it
It is not just the pitch (TPI) of the thread, or it's O/D out side diameter, but also the thread form I doubt that an American or modern metric tread form would be a comfortable fit with a 1850's British thread form. If you are tapping out then you are removing some metal before you hit the wood below. I might consider inserting a hot darning needle to poke out and burn back any wood that's in the way. However I would first try to remove the plate nut (disk) using a scalpel to ensure that the polish is not encroaching around the disc circumference. I would also be prepared to wax in once the plate nut is replaced.
Finally, with the plate nut out and in your hand, you can test to see if the screw will fully enter the nut, or whether there is thread binding problem rather than a wood interference problem.
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On the subject of compromises and stuffing in extra notes, plate sizes etc. The only way you can get a lower pitch from a smaller reed is by slowing the reed down. This is usually by adding more mass to the tip of the reed relative to the spring in the belly of the reed. From experience, this can make a reed slower to respond, and sometimes more 'breathy'. In stead of more, have you considered less keys, say a 26 key? I might suggest that 26 keys that works really well, is better than 36 keys where some notes are hardly ever used and those you need regularly are compromised, if only by a little.
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Unlike the English System you cannot get a single action Anglo. Many of the English System instruments are single action and have a very limited number of keys for both weight and space considerations. The other issue is valves, a single action instrument has none. The Anglo needs valves, it's whole concept demands fast acting valves. Unfortunately, valves are the biggest 'slow down' and issue when fitted to big reeds. On a big reeded Anglo they are a nightmare and from my (limited) experience they tend to play like, but are not as tasty as, a sticky plum pudding. The ones I have worked on are traditionally reeded, I assume (dangerously perhaps) that the Norman version would use accordion reeds? They might be differently valved. Physics, however, will be a constant.
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On 9/13/2023 at 10:41 PM, wes williams said:
Thanks Dave,
I may be a little tardy in replies for a while, as identical twin grandsons arrived last week 👨❤️💋👨 and we are helping out with their older sister and brother.
Congratulations to all!, Wes, a pair of miniatures - no doubt with good bellows!
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Fancy hand cutting that fretwork! be a bit of a bugger if you make a mistake.
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Very few Bass singers can sing to Bass instrument and maintain vocal clarity in the performance. The instruments are too powerful and the frequencies too close. You have to play some form of accompaniment a long way from the sung notes.
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Are you sure that the screws are original? It may well be that they are off a machine of a different period or manufacture and that they are binding in the threads in the nuts.
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On 9/25/2023 at 12:47 AM, Jeremy said:
I'm having a recurring issue with my 38 button C/G Jeffries where various pads don't quite form airtight seals, resulting in notes that play all the time when the buttons aren't depressed. It's happening with several different buttons intermittently. I bought the instrument, which was made in 1897, in Ireland in January, and it now lives in my home in Halifax, Canada. Until recently, the instrument worked flawlessly. I've taken the ends off several times as the issue has presented itself and gently tweaked the lever arms and pads in the hopes of kind of nudging things into place, but that hasn't helped. There is no visible damage to the pads and there is good resistance to pushing down the affected buttons. Anyone have any ideas on what's causing this or how to fix it in a lasting way?
Thanks!
Check that the pivot post has not backed out of the wood, or that the lever fulcrum is not damaged. I suspect you may have an action arm problem, one where the pad is not closing properly when everything is screwed up together.
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Check the key travel, and how high the key top sits above the fingerplate when depressed. Also has the key cross bushing been replaced recently?
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Anglo Tune Chart 30 lach Bb-F .pdf
This is my tuning chart for Bb/F Anglo, it might help Anglo Tune Chart 30 lach Bb-F .pdf
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Bb/ F was, if not common, then not too unusual a key.
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Sarah, #142578, I would agree with that date, based upon the research done by Downright and Wes.
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Just try bellows direction changes on a Baritone or a Bass, especially ones like mine; both are single action! Basically part of the skill of playing an English system, or a duet for that matter is to be able to play fluidly with dynamic control. If you want to play for dance, and you want to push the step up, you have the option to create a pause and pump by changing bellows direction if you wish.
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Well done Alex!
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On 9/7/2023 at 10:57 AM, Andy Holder said:
Thank you Geoff. Do you think there would be any disadvantage in using chrome plated brass?
There is a disadvantage, Chrome is deposited in platelets, (fine scales) and is this porous, it is easier for corrosive elements to penetrate and a scratch to cause surface deterioration. Nickel plate is more homogeneous.
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As a temporary fix, stretch the valve using a needle to spear the tip (gently)
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If the concertina has ben stored in it's box like shown in the picture, it will probably need re-valving, shudders!
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Everyone starts somewhere, beside 'the book', there is plenty of advice around. The hard bit is deciding whose opinions and tips to follow. There is an awful lot of guestimation, supposition, and well meaning twaddle from pseudo experts and arm chair gurus on these and other pages. On the other hand there are masses of experience and good solid advice too. Whilst I had inherited a Metal ended Wheatstone 48k Aeola, I started out trying to re-furb a brass reeded mahogany ended people's grade Lachenal which I picked up for just a few £s.
You don't necessarily need an expert to hand but it is good to research well and have some one to consult. Start on the basic tasks first. I would list what I think I need to do to make the instrument basically playable. then knock off jobs from there.
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On 7/20/2023 at 8:54 PM, Clive Thorne said:
I had put that look on the side down to poor feed & speed, a knackered cutter, or simply insufficient rigidity in the machine or clamping. The smooth bit at the end possible having been finished with a burr?
Clive,
Looked too smooth for chatter marking, but Fusion processes would have caused twisting or pinching in the vent.
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All good options, and not too expensive to sample.
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I don't think that the brass reed frame vents had their taper filled on, it was part of the punching process (becking in forging parlance). This also went for the dovetail taper on the outside of the frame. Brass is fairly malleable so this would have been no big issue. I wonder if Aluminium had a tendency to tear in punching? and what you have is a work around.
I also note that the 'step has been filled by means of some form of fusion or weld? Perhaps TIG? This may have been an attempt to form some sort of taper rather than just a female corner. (can you say female these days?)
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If you like that sort of thing, perhaps you might like to investigate a hobbies shop or model making shop that caters for higher grade doll's house fittings and paraphernalia, I seen to recall that when I built my girls a posh dolls house you could get dolls house wallpapers that were well made and printed. you would need to lacquer the papers after fitting.
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I am not picking up a fault from the sound file, it might just be the harmonics of the instrument
Deepen hole for thumbscrews?
in Instrument Construction & Repair
Posted
There are coloured wood repair waxes that can be used to disguise marks on polish, or even (the hot wax version) fill cracks and cover small chips in coatings.