Leonard
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Posts posted by Leonard
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Link doesn't work.
This is the one: http://web.gc.cuny.edu/freereed/concertina_survey.htm
(.htm instead of .html)
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Wifra 40 Button CG Anglo Concertina - Immaculate NR
Item number: 230241115660
Could find it.
But this is same one, isn't it? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wifra-40-Button-C-G-...emZ320240892199
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I am interested in this Lachenal Edeophone,
This one: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=170211074796
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I asked again:
I'm surprised. You say English system. Does that mean that any button gives the same note on push and pull?Answer:
Yes, I tried again. Each digit gives a different note but the notes are the same whether you push or pull.A duet, then.....
Also, his English is very good, ........Does he have an English as well?
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Oops!, sorry Jim I should have said Leonard's question (apols to Leonard, too).Leonard's question. Jim's musings. I won't complain, and I hope Leonard won't.
No, I don't .
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Hard to tell from the photos whether it is Anglo or EC, tho from the staggered button setup I'd guess EC.
--Mike K.
I asked the seller:
Is this a Anglo, English or Duet concertina? Does any button plays the same note on the push and the pull? And if it's the same note, are the lower notes on one side of the instrument and the higher ones on other side, or are the notes alternately on the left and right hand side?His answer:
Thanks for your querry. I was only just informed by another E-bayer about the meaning of Anglo & English. Hence I can confirm that the concertina works on the English system. I tried it out and the lower notes are on one side whilst the higher notes are on the other side. I hope that this will make it worth a fortune and wish you good luck with your bidding on E-bay,Does that make it a Duet?
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It's gone.
Is this new listing the same? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=330227644761
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Thank you for your reaction, Jim.
Apparently I made some wrong assumptions.
And I think I misused the word "transpose".
Earlier topics about the different types of english concertinas didn't give answers to unsolved questions.
For example: what's the difference between AEola 56-key Baritones and 56-key Baritone-Trebles (model 14 and 20a in the Wheatstone price lists in the 20's and 30's)
But I'll start a new topic for this subject later.
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Baritone/treble confirmed.
Four whole steps lower than a t/t.
I would call this a Baritone-Tenor.
- On a Treble middle C is on the left hand side in line with the middle of the thumb strap. (Call this position "mid-TS")
- On a Tenor mid-TS is F below middle C.
- On a Baritone mid-TS is C below middle C.
- On a Tenor-Treble mid-TS is middle C, like a Treble, extended below mid-TS with 4 buttons on each side, going down to C below middle C on the right hand side.
- On a Baritone-Treble mid-TS is a middle C, like a Treble, extended below mid-TS with 8 buttons on each side, going down to F below C below middle C on the right hand side.
On the picture of the left hand side you can see no more than 4 extra buttons below mid-TS.
If the bottom note is F below C below middle C, than mid-TS is F below middle C, like a Tenor.
Hence a Baritone-Tenor.
Or an Extended Baritone-Tenor, given the 2x4 extra buttons at the higher end, extending the range as high as a Treble.
The importance of all this is not in the name:
When you're used to play a Treble, a Tenor-Treble or Baritone-Treble gives you just the extra notes at the lower range.
When you play the same music on a (Baritone-)Tenor, you have to transpose.
- On a Treble middle C is on the left hand side in line with the middle of the thumb strap. (Call this position "mid-TS")
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It would be nice if somebody (other than me) posted these other versions for us to listen to.
Al
I've assembled the ABC-, dots-, and MIDI-files of the different versions of MRMarch and MRReel.
See this link.
But don't let it keep you from learning to use the Tune-O-tron, Alan. It's a great tool!
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After continuing to listen to it and play along to it I've come to the conclusion that it is, wait for it, more like a Hornpipe.
The first notes of the quaver pairs are dotted and there's a multitude of triplets.
While I just finished writing it down as the jig, David B. was talking about:
X:1T:Manor Royal JigC:Alan DayM:6/8L:1/8Q:160K:GDEF|G2G FGA| G2D D2G|B2B ABc| B3-B2d|c2BABc|B2A [1 GAB|A2G F2G| A3 :|[2 G2D|E2c A2F| G3|:F2G| A2A ABc| B2B Bcd|c2c BAG| A3-A2D|E2F G2A| B2c dBG|E2c A2F|G3 :|] -
It seems there isn't actually a link to the concertina book page from your home page. However, it can be found directly here.
Not in the menu on the left, but on the upper right side, there's a link called "Free Concertina Sheet music, a Collection from 1886"
(Edited for spelling)
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However, I would really like to go the other way - down to a Bb/F. Has anyone else tried his, or have any advice for me? It seems to me that if this effect could be exploited, a multi-key concertina could become a reality.
Gerry
Going down is quite simple: just put your instrument in a plastic bag with two holes to put your hands through. Put your instrument in the bag and place your hands inside the back. Be sure that your system is quite air-tight (use some tapes to connect the bag to your hands/wrists).
Now comes the important step: fill the bag with a gas that has a higher density than air ( CO2, noble gasses like krypton, xenon or even radon). Now play your tina and you will hear a remarkable lowering of the pitch. To calculate the new value of your pitch, you can use a simple formula (density gas)/(density air) * pitch (in air) = pitch (in gas). In this way (using Radon) you can even lower the pitch almost one octave!!
So with the right air/gas mixture you can easily make a Bb/F concertina from your C/G. The other way around is also possible. In this respect Helium is often used to raise your voice in a Donald Duck like fashion. It will (as could be expected) also raise the pitch of your concertina.
Good luck with the experiments!
Why is a Dutchman the first to answer "a question 4 UK players?"
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Congratulations!
What's his name: Charles, Louis, Jeffrey?
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if this is the mr.green who was an exceptional reed maker it would indeed make sense and if he was still at lachenal in the 20s? he would have been in his 70s and probably very , very good at what he was doing?
If THE Mr. Green was from this family, it's more likely one of the sons.
how do we recognise his reeds though? I've read else where on this forum that top end lachenal concertinas vary massively in their reed quality.I'd like to know if my reeds in my lachenal were made by him!!!!????is this an impossible question??!!!!!
:blink:I'd suggest: compare the qualities of your reeds with other top end Lachenals from the 20s.
If yours are playing and sounding better than the others, who knows Mr. Green made them. Or not.
But what's the difference if you have top quality?
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Good lord! When he's in his teens, he's, er... excited. Is that allowed in an advert?
Just the X-box joystick....
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Yikes...... there! Now give it a try.
The link on that page doesn't work............ (Farewell to Whiskey, and if you don't know it there's a pdf of the dots posted at the BB's NCW registration page) ...........-- Rich --
Quick reaction. Thanks!
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........ (Farewell to Whiskey, and if you don't know it there's a pdf of the dots posted at the BB's NCW registration page) ...........
The link on that page doesn't work....
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If my Country loving friends call their baby Dolly, I won't be the one who says: "But she has no tits at all!"
I'll just congratulate them with their beautiful daughter ..........
Pardon?
After month of work Alan comes up with a great collection of English concertina music, and he calls it after "Anglo International".
Time to enjoy what's there, not to nag what should be on a CD called "English Concertina International"
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If my Country loving friends call their baby Dolly, I won't be the one who says: "But she has no tits at all!"
I'll just congratulate them with their beautiful daughter ..........
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My contribution to this investigation:
I went through the ledger SD01 (# 25000 - 29750, May 1910 - Nov.1923)
and made a list of the descriptions of all the instruments which have a designation about the fretwork.
Fret_designation_Ledger_SD01.pdf
Out of the 4750 concertinas in this ledger there are:
116 with the designation "81 fret", "81 frets" or "fret 81";
7 with the designation "25 fret", "25 frets" or "fret 25";
3 with "Olives fret" or "Olives".
All are wooden ended English concertinas.
All except one (#27325, model No.5A) with raised ends.
Most Aeolas (model No.17, 18, 18A, 19), but six model No.6 and one No.8.
The using of "fret 81" and "fret 25" suggests that it has nothing to do with the number of holes. Maybe the # of a mould?
I hope there will be more reactions to Greg's original question........
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Or are there any 56K wheatstones with the "81 frets" designation?
I checked: several 56 keys with 81 frets.
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Possible explanation:
On a 48 keys instrument with fretwork in between the keys, there are 17 extra holes on the right hand side and 16 on the left hand side. This means there are 48+17+16=81 holes in the key area.
Or are there any 56K wheatstones with the "81 frets" designation?
81 Fret Concertinas; Fretwork Between The Buttons?
in General Concertina Discussion
Posted
This week I went over to Chris Algar and bought Wheatstone #30848.
It does have fretwork between the buttons.
All the ledgers say is: model 18, Black 56 keys.
Not a word about 81 frets.